What is the torque specs for the harmonic balancer bolt on a SBC?

50-60 ftlbs

If you're using an aftermarket bolt the specs might be different also

Got a question. I have a $40 installer sitting here but if I can do this without it, I can return it for a refund. My question is: if I use the balancer bolt to crank on the balancer, it should be fine as long as the torque wrench doesn't need to go past 60lbs, right?

I would use the installer tool. Most times the bolt is just long enough to grab a couple of threads. The balancer needs to be pushed in a long ways and I would not want my crank and bolt doing all of the work with just a few threads doing the starting work. But thats just my opinion. Use the tool and then sell it to me for a discounted price. I need one.

Shawn - have you checked the local chain stores for a loaner? I know Autozone usually has them...

You can also get longer bolts at your local fastner shop. I paid $1 per bolt & I picked up a 3" grade 8 bolt & a 2.75" g8 bolt. The 3" bolt bottomed out on my crank, so I used the 2.75" for the final install. I torqued mine to 65 ft*lbs per the instructions on my balancer. My stock bolt was 2.25" long...

My Summit house brand SFI balancer was so tight, I broke the install tool. I had to take some emery cloth to the balancer & crank to get it to fit. I even baked it in the oven for 30 minutes at 240* (per the instructions - not hot enough to melt the elastomer). It was a bugger to get on.

we stripped out a crank using the bolt to install the balancer. autozone rental tools FTW

They rent the pullers, not the installers. Not at my Autozone anyway. I'll just have to use the $40 dollar one. By the way, I've never had to use an installer, they all seemed to fit nicely just by boiling the balancer to expand it a little. That may be the case here, too. But I've never used the installer. This things works by inserting a threaded piece with a nut on it- into the crank hole and screwing it in until it reaches the nut correct? Then slide the balancer over this piece and use another nut and washer to screw the balancer on. So the only threads that could stripped are on the installer threads. Is this the correct directions. I know its not rocket science but i just don't want to screw it up.

The installer I used had an insert that matched the crank threads (many inserts for different crank thread sizes).

You screw the insert for your crank into the end of the threaded rod (of the installation tool). Then you screw the insert & rod into the crankshaft.

Slide the balancer onto the crankshaft snub (over the insert tool). Then slide on the bearing & the nut onto the installation tool's threaded rod.

Put a wrench on the end of the threaded rod (it had a hex head) and a wrench on the nut. Tighten the nut until the balancer hits the timing gear. When everything is the right size, it works great.

I previously said my Autozone doesn't rent installers. Well, miscommunication will make you feel like an ass and humble you. I found out tonight my Autozone has always had the installers. When I was told they didn't have one last year, they really meant some guy had it out for 3 months... and eventually..never brought it back. So I rented their replacement and returned the one I bought. The one from Autozone isn't like the one I had so my previous post wouldn't make sense. This one is self explanitory just by looking at it. Cant wait to get this crap done.

My Summit house brand SFI balancer was so tight, I broke the install tool. I had to take some emery cloth to the balancer & crank to get it to fit. I even baked it in the oven for 30 minutes at 240* (per the instructions - not hot enough to melt the elastomer). It was a bugger to get on.

Thats why you have the machine shop hone the balancer to fit the crank. They're made that way on purpose because all cranks are going to be a little different.