Well, the intake saga continues.

After realizing the back of the intake was leaking, I removed it. Funny thing is, the rear bolt hole on the driver's side had a CRACK right by it! I played with it for a second and the whole corner fell off! A 2x2" chunk!!!!!

WTF! I torqued it perfectly, the bolt even came LOOSE, so I know I didn't over tighten.

Off to Summit. I hope they take it back even tho I tossed the box during the garage cleaning frenzy the other day.

On to the next ?. What's the most effective way to rid my motor of thaty frothy mixture I have in there. I got some antifreeze in the oil when I pulled the 1st intake.

It's pretty "frothy" and it sticks to a lot. I want it OUT! I'm thinking run some fresh oil and replace it a few times every 30 -40 miles or so? How long does it take to get rid of it like that?

Buy a case of cheap oil and a coulple oil filters. Keep flushing until it looks good.

just looked, and the radiator's down 6"! not good. I sure hope it was just the intake leaking!

i think it's possible a poorly sealed intake could suck up 6" water in 1.5 miles.
whaddaya think?


(fingers crossed)

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by thefed:
just looked, and the radiator's down 6"! not good. I sure hope it was just the intake leaking!

i think it's possible a poorly sealed intake could suck up 6" water in 1.5 miles.
whaddaya think?


(fingers crossed)</font>

Yes, but you would have had a smoke screen out your tail pipes James Bond would envy. Or you have a galon of water in your crank case.

Gimme that engine before you wreck it! http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

The only way I know of cleaning it out is by running more oil through it.

You probably had air in the intake coolant passages when you filled the radiator and it wasn't quite full. I hope you didn't run that much coolant into your block. It doesn't lubricate very well.

Maybe some JB Weld for the intake? I don't think so.

Hope you get this worked out! I'm having my own fun with a carb.

[This message has been edited by Twisted_Metal (edited September 14, 2005).]

If Summit doesnt take back the intake, take it to a welder who can tig weld aluminum. I just tore the rear tailhousing out of my Suburabans tranny and got it welded. Not a drip from it and operation is like it was before the carnage.

Maybe it's time for a new hobby? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Goat:
Maybe it's time for a new hobby? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif</font>

I often think the same thing.....


lol

This is just getting aggrevating. I've sealed probably 5 or 6 intakes in the past, no prob. now MY 1st expensive, decent HP build for ME, and it's goin' to hell in a handbasket! go figure.

thefed,
I've dealt with a similar situation on a friends fresh motor that had an intake leak. Here's what we did to clean it up:

We drained the oil out and filled the engine with a cheap oil filter, cheapo 30wt and 2-quarts of motor flush that was warmed up before adding to the engine. (Place the bottle or can in a pot of near boiling water with the top opened to relieve pressure, this stuff works better when warm!).

Using an engine oil priming tool, we circulated the the oil mixture using the primer tool and a drill through the engine for a few minutes then drained it out and again changed the filter. We repeated the process twice until most of the milky/foamy mess was gone then ran 2-quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil with 3-quarts of cheap 30wt and another filter through the engine once it was all back together and idled it until it reached operating temperature. Once it reached operating temperature, add 1-quart of motor flush and let it run for 5-minutes more then drain and change to your normal brand of oil filter and motor oil.

One key thing when changing oil, if you still have the pressure relief in the adapter, us a long thin screwdriver to open it so that the oil behind it can be drained as well. This was a key to getting all the water/ antifreeze out.

BTW this engine has over 45,000 miles on it and was a freshly built hydraulic roller cam small block.

Good Luck!

I dont know what a pressure relief adapter is! Where can I find it?

It's where your oil pump screws onto (next to the threads about 1/4").

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 70 Z UC:
It's where your oil pump screws onto (next to the threads about 1/4").</font>

Don't you means oil filter?

I THINK HE DOES.

and as far as oilf ilter go, geez, im havin a tough time getitng this one off. my "strap on a stick" universal oil filter wrench dented the hell outta the filter, and now the cup type that goes on a socket won't work. next comes a big ass screwdriver thru the damned thing....lol

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by thefed:
... next comes a big ass screwdriver thru the damned thing....lol</font>

And oil up to your armpits! Good Luck!

Here's trick we use with the band style or strap type oil filter wrenches.

Get a long piece of 320 to 36 grit sand paper. Fold it in half where the grit is on the outside on both sides. Wrap the sandpaper around the filter and place the stap or band around it. The grit of the sandpaper will grab the filter and the tool helping to eliminate the slipping.

I usually try this before I beat a screwdriver through a filter. If this works, it sure beats having the oil all over the place!

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Kamikaze:
Here's trick we use with the band style or strap type oil filter wrenches.

Get a long piece of 320 to 36 grit sand paper. Fold it in half where the grit is on the outside on both sides. Wrap the sandpaper around the filter and place the stap or band around it. The grit of the sandpaper will grab the filter and the tool helping to eliminate the slipping.

I usually try this before I beat a screwdriver through a filter. If this works, it sure beats having the oil all over the place!</font>

good idea!

@thefed,
How much have you run the motor with the antifreeze-oil froth in it? It only takes a few minutes of running before that froth mixture will take out all of the bearings in the engine.

I had an intake manifold water passage leak into the valley on my motor two winters ago. It was -35F, so I chose to limp the car the 5 miles or so home. When I tore the engine down this summer, the bearings were scuffed deeply into the copper. I flushed parts wash through everything I could and there was still some traces of froth until the first oil change.


I'd pull the pan and check a bearing or two before running that engine if I were you, thefed.