a BUDDY OF MINE BUILT A 383 BUT HE CLEARANCED TOO MUCH IN ONE SPOT AND HAD A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER GETTING in his oil.
He gave me the block its bored, decked, line bored evrything Id like to fix the leak and put my other rotating assembly in it can it be fixed and what are my options?

I imagine the hole is in the oil pan rail area? If it's not too big, a good welder can either braze it or weld it with stainless or nickle.

Or maybe a very short fill of the water jackets could take care of it?? I'd hate to see all that machine work go to waste!!

I am not to proud to say that in my younger days I made the same mistake. As stated by 1978LT using block fill is the best way to correct it. If the car is for street use, just put the block on a perfectly level surface and fill the water jacket with about 1-2" of block fill. It worked for me, and I never had any heating problems.

Sounds great maybee I will use block fill just in case he groud close on any of the others? It is in the pan rail. Where do you buy block fill?

Summit/ Jegs sells it. You'd want the 'short fill'. Or less, if possible.....

Will good old, "JB Weld" work here??

pdq67

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by pdq67:
Will good old, "JB Weld" work here??

pdq67</font>

Thats what the guy put on it but if he was scared to try I guess I am too? mAYBE OKAY?

Heres your problem, to dry things up a short fill to the bottom of the freeze plugs will do the trick. BUT this thing has already been honed to final size,, As the concrete hardens it is going to deform the cylinder walls. You ALWAYS fill before the bore and hone. At best your going to have a loose holes after you hone enough to get them round again,,,, at worst you will take it out to +.040. Everybody (SRP, KB, Ross etc) is making 4.040" pistons for the 3.75" stroke.
With the cost of a fill and honing to the next oversize,, I'd just start with a fresh casting.

I'll carry it to a machine shop get thier opinions on welding then the block fill expansion makes perfect sense.

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283ci, 4spd, 5,000 stall, aluminum camel humps, e-brock 1050 dominator, solid flattapet roller 284 @ 50
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/163599/fullsize/Idlin%20smooth.WMV

I do know several guys have used JBWeld on the outside of the block. And it held for quite a long time too!!

pdq67

I guess it just depends on how brave you are. The problem here is a clearancing job that went astray and hit water. Any repair that fails,,, what's going to be the first indication that there is a problem??? And what's the concequences of running around with oil that is about 1/2 water??

Yeah, what you save by using this 'free' block could cost dearly.

clean and rough it up.. and use gobs of JB weld... no reason it shouldnt work...