I decided to stick with an n/a small block instead of twin turbos because of my financial situation and just realiability with turbos. So heres where i am, i have a 350 bored .30 over with forged internals and a pair of 327 camel hump heads which have been extensively ported. I need a cam setup, valve springs, rocker arms, intake, carb. Basically all the top end stuff. What would you go with if you were building a car 99% for the street? Thought i want the car to be a radical street car with a mean sound and lots of power. So mild street car is not my goal.

Same thing as I did on mine.

Performer RPM intake,
Howards #98212 1.25" od valve springs
600 cfm carb ( I like edelbrocks but most folks will tell you holley)

Cam.. Well you will need to post alittle more info.. Like your compression ratio 1st

I run a crane 272-2 cam with my 10.18:1 compression. (272/284*, 216/228* @ .050", 112 lsa, .454"/.480" lift)

I also use 1.6 roller tip elgin rocker arms.. which brings lift to .484"/.512" and adds about 2* of duration to the .050" lift #'s

summit house brand hardened pushrods

Specs don't sound wild but it runs 11.40's @ 118 in my third gen camaro

Same thing as I did on mine.

Performer RPM intake,
Howards #98212 1.25" od valve springs
600 cfm carb ( I like edelbrocks but most folks will tell you holley)

Cam.. Well you will need to post alittle more info.. Like your compression ratio 1st

I run a crane 272-2 cam with my 10.18:1 compression. (272/284*, 216/228* @ .050", 112 lsa, .454"/.480" lift)

I also use 1.6 roller tip elgin rocker arms.. which brings lift to .484"/.512" and adds about 2* of duration to the .050" lift #'s

summit house brand hardened pushrods

Specs don't sound wild but it runs 11.40's @ 118 in my third gen camaro

I don't mean to derail the thread but, thats impressive!!!!! Just shows what a well matched set of parts can do. Is the car stock weight if you don't mind me asking?

Hey smoking.. Thanks man. Naw it's not quite stock weight, but it aint been gutted eaither. 3320 lbs w/o driver in street trim, full tank of fuel and sub woofers in rear.. When I race, I use 1/4 tank of fuel and the subs get's left at home, so right at 3225 w/o driver race weight

That ain't no light weight potato chip. You matched up the parts well. Right on, dude.

Thanks man.. I will say it's a heck of a engine for what parts used in it. Alot of people gets carried away and has BIBS.. Bigger cams, bigger carbc, large port heads, etc won't always make the most power if rest of engine and car is not set up to match those parts.

I tend to go the other way with my builds.. Milder combo but with everything matched to work tgether..

I really like your setup night rider and appreciate the help. Though i actually dont know my compression ration, i bought the engine and heads off of someone who used it a while ago. How can i find out the compression ratio?

Thats gonna be a tough one w/o have more info.

On the short block or bottom end parts you need to know atleast...
crank stroke
bore size
if block has been decked or not
and the piston CC.

So we know 4.030" x 3.48" bore/stroke.

Now you need to measure how far the piston sits in the hole at TDC.. You can use a stright edege across the bore and feeler gauges under the stright edge, and on top of piston with it at TDC to get pretty close

Then you need to know piston CC. You can find these out by the piston part #. Good aftermarket pistons will have the over size 030 or 30 for .030" overbore stamped on top of them along with the part # of that piston..

If you clean the top of piston off good you should be able to see that.

If no # then we can get close going by the piston type.. A true flat top with 2 or 4 eyes for valves, dish top with 4 eyes, dome (reversed dish)

Then you need to know the head gaskets you will be using.. The bore of the gaskets and the thickness of them.

(if it's a stock deck height block, pistons .025" down in bore, and flat top 4 eye pistons I would use a 4.100" x .015" gasket to gain more compression and tighten quench up)

I think night rider has set you on the right path

I have been there done that on the opposite path - bigger heads, bigger cam etc. and not exactly a matched combo - even with nitrous - I am struggling to run consistent times even close to yours

Sad thing is - you often only discover how mismatched you are and how much "more" money you need to spend on matching your combo - that you realise it was really the bunch of must have recommended parts that are "1",
"2" or "3" notches above stock parts - that set you down the slipper slope

I would take a leaf out of night rider's book if I were you

Imho!!

Listen up here is all I'm gonna say!

I say this b/c no more than an old hopped up 300hp/327 w/ a Crane/Cam Dynamics 272/272 Energizer in her, a Holley 1850 on an adapter for the old AFB cast-iron intake and a cheap set of headers in my 1st Gen. Camaro M-20, 3.31 posi- and small real slicks will do 12.9!!

pdq67

Im almost positive its a stock deck height block and the pistons do say on the top: UP 030 L2441. Heres a picture before i cleaned it all up, ill have to borrow a feeler gauge if i want to measure them at TDC. Thanks for all the help!

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/thecruzin1/DSC_0006-3.jpg

Same thing as I did on mine.

Performer RPM intake,
Howards #98212 1.25" od valve springs
600 cfm carb ( I like edelbrocks but most folks will tell you holley)

Cam.. Well you will need to post alittle more info.. Like your compression ratio 1st

I run a crane 272-2 cam with my 10.18:1 compression. (272/284*, 216/228* @ .050", 112 lsa, .454"/.480" lift)

I also use 1.6 roller tip elgin rocker arms.. which brings lift to .484"/.512" and adds about 2* of duration to the .050" lift #'s

summit house brand hardened pushrods

Specs don't sound wild but it runs 11.40's @ 118 in my third gen camaro

what heads?

what gear and tranny are u using?...that 1/4 mile time sounds impressive.

70TT.. Well from the picture you can tell they are a D shaped dished piston for use on like blower engines and what not, to lower compression to useable amount with boost..

From my info that # comes back as anTRW forged dish pistons with a -21.10 cc dish. 565 grams each weight.

Approximate compression ratios: (as listed in TRW's book)
6.95:1 with 76cc,
7.17:1 with 72cc,
7.40:1 with 68cc,
7.65:1 with 64cc,
8.06:1 with 58cc heads

Bore (in): 4.030 in.
Bore (mm): 102.362mm
Piston Material: Forged aluminum
Piston Style: Dish
Compression Distance (in): 1.560 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc): +21.10cc
Valve Reliefs: Trough
Wrist Pin Style: Press fit or floating
Pin Diameter (in): 0.927 in.
Top Ring Thickness: 5/64 in.
Second Ring Thickness: 5/64 in.
Oil Ring Thickness: 3/16 in.
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: D cup piston crown design.

Here's a link to them on summit's site http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW%2DL2441F30&autoview=sku

If your double hump heads are 62cc like mine and deck height is stock, and you use a 4.100" x .015" head gasket your compression ratio will be
8.94:1

With that low of compression you will want and need to go smaller on the cam size to build cyl pressure and get your DCR up

IMO for max streetable power you want to shoot for a 7.8 to 8.2 DCR (look up Pat Kelly's DCR page and read it about 5 times to understand DCR and how cam size plays a role in cyl pressure) Or do a search on here for DCR, I have posted alot of info about it in the past.

Myself with that compression ratio the biggest cam I would put in there would be a 262/272 adv duration with a 112 LSA. Something like summit's K1102 cam kit would fit the bill

And IMHO thats still a tad too big of a cam for that compression. The DCR comes out to 7.47:1



Yodaddy and 73z28....

I'm running 1966 327 #462 heads, 62cc chambers, major full on race type port work, manley valves, bronze guides, screw in studs, guide plates, etc etc.

Th-400 trans, rebuilt with BW frictions, transgo reprogramming kit, GER 11" 2800 stall converter that flashes 3100 rpm,

7.625" sorry weak 10 bolt, 3.42 gears, lock rite locker, yukon axles, TA support cover.

Nitto 555R 275/60-15 drag radails.

Night- you're running 11.40s on motor in a near-stock-weight 3rd gen with reworked stock castings and a 216* cam? Man, you're WAY ahead of me building a similar combo. Anything I've ever built similar to that and I'd be at least a full second and 10 MPH behind you.

Damon, yeah man I know it sounds way out there but this mild combo is working for me and running darn good times.

Not that it matters much but theres more to my combo than the above posted.. I feel strongly that other parts I used helped alot in the times it runs..

Like the 7 qt oil pan with 5 qt of oil in it, the screen type windage screen, the rear main baffle, the lifter valley baffle, The all alum, all under driven pulleys, the scat crank thats 5 lbs lighter than GM cast, then lighter weight pistons (even though they are hypers they are much liter than what most folks use on mild builds)

Taking the time to port match the intake, taking the time to fully dail in the carb and timing.. Heck I made over 50 passes at the track and probbly 25 street miles just to get THE BEST carb tune.

Shorter than norm belts,
elec fan,
A fuel system that keeps up.. I was out running my 70-71 LT1 about 100 gph mech pump and my 35 gph elec helper pump.. That ended up killing .4 seconds. Replaced the LT1 pump with a cater 172 gph mech and my fuel pressure never dropped like it did before and my time slips showed .35 to .40 seconds faster on every pass afterwards

I would recommend writing down every singe detail of that motor in a notebook somewhere becuase I guarantee you'll eventually want to build another one just like it someday. You found one of those "killer combos" that works far better than the sum of it's specs would indicate. I've built a few in my life that go far beyond expectations (never as far beyond expectations as yours, though) and every single time I forget to write down what I did- later wishing I could remember exactly how I built it.

Damon... Yep your 100% right and I have already done what you said.. As The 1st weekend out the Trap speed was alot higher than I had hoped for..

As soon as I got home I wrote out file with EVERY spec on this engine in it.. Down to as far as bearing clearances, ring end gaps, piston to wall clearance, etc etc

My only fear is.. I have to change my heads soon (they cracked after all these years) and I'm sacred my times are gonna take a dive..

I don't have the funds for what I want, so I'm gonna go with votecs.. I know vortecs are better than my 462's but like you said when you stumble across a combo like this you don't want to change anything..

Not to be a fly in the ointment here and Nightrider does have an impressive combo, but you guys also need to realize he has 218 psi cranking compression which is exactly what I had with my old 413ci small block when it had 12.39:1 compression, aluminum heads and a Comp 306S cam. Running something like this by maximizing cylinder pressure will make great torque but will require either race fuel and/or a lot of attention given to the timing curve, carb jetting, air inlet temps and so on. It is definitely an on the edge combo and if you do not know exactly what you are doing and stay on top of the engine tune, engine damage is not far behind.

Not trying to take anything away from Night's combo, but even by his own admission he has stated in the past several times he doesn't recommend that much cranking compression, although he gets away with it because he pays strict attention to all facets of his engine tune. Just wanted to mention that before some guys get the idea you can get away with this on your daily-driver. Like I said I ran 218 psi cranking compression in my old 413 and all it took was for the DA to change one night at the track and me not to jet up a size or two to blow the top off the #8 piston in that engine.

Just something to keep in mind when weighing off maximum cranking compression on pump fuel. I walked that razor's edge and it came back to bite me in the butt. :screwup: :cool:

Hey Dirt.. I'm glad you posted that man..

Yeah like you said I'm running 218 psi cyl pressure due to the higher SCR and smaller cam.. Same cyl pressure as most 12:1 to 13:1 race engines are at

Yep I have said it quite a few times... That's way the heck too much cyl pressure for common street use. 190-195 psi is about the highest a real street engine should be at with most people.

I have been in this game awhile and understand engine tuning which plays a major role in being able to run my combo on the street.

I do it with 93 octane fuel but like I have said in my other reply and like Dirt mentioned.. I spent alot of time getting this setup dailed in.

34* is the max I can go on my timing. 1 degree more and I get very slight ping. Timing curve is set up just right, all in at 3,000 rpm.. I tried to bring it in at 2800 once and I didnt hear any detonation but she didnt feel right so my thought was it was going into detonation, just not bad enough to hear.

I have to limit my vac advance to 10*

I have to run a sealed and ducted to hood scoop cold air setup to keep inlet temps down enough to keep it from pinging.

Drop down 2 heat ranges on my plugs.

My carb has to be pig rich.. Like Dirt said, The DA changed on him one night and he didn't jet up, and thats all it took. Since my car is a true 100% daily driver I rather run richer than it needs to be than to take that risk and end up going lean. Even jetted up pig rich, I still read my plugs ALOT.. About every 2 tanks of fuel on the street I pull the plugs and see how they look, looking for signs of detonation, too hot, too lean, etc

Dirt knows what he's doing and still got bit by running on the edge.. Truthfully I probbly will too sooner or later but untill that happens I'm just gonna count my blessing a piston hasnt came apart on me yet. lol

Yes I run great times with it, yes I drive it daily, yes the parts in it are "mild" but this is NOT a set it and forget combo. I have to keep an eye on tune, an ear out for anything strange, and know what feels right and what don't.

The dist. sometimes slips on chevys even with a hold down.. I had that happen to me once early last summer. If I didnt know what to "feel" for then I'm pretty sure I wouldnt have this same engine running.

I was driving down the interstate, steady 80 mph.. Just out of the blue it felt like the car slowed down and I needed to push a tad harder on the throttle.. Also felt a very slight surge to the engine.

Got off at the very next exit (less than 2 miles), pulled into a store parking look, got out un pinned the hood and looked. Looked closer, and longer, and noticed my longest plugs wires (#1 and 2) looked to to be running straighter and tighter than I remembered.. Got to looking at the dist and it didnt looked to be moved but thats the only thing I could come up with.. I didnt have my timing light with me so I just twitched the dist. back some..

Took it back on the highway and it felt much better, like it should have.. My guess it dist turned (advanced) a degree or 2 while I was driving an I was getting slight un heard detonation.

Yeah i could understand the compression being low in this engine because i bought it off of a guy who was using it for a twin turbo setup, I decided not to go twin turbo because its so damn expensive. Is there any other way for me to raise compression to around what yours is night rider without swapping pistons??

70TT.. Not really.. The tightest you can go on piston to head clearance is .035" (.040" is safer though)

So 0 decked block and .035" to .040" thick gaskets wouldnt be no diff than stock .025" in the hole and .015" gaskets.

Heads you could have them milled down to a smaller CC but thats not going to get compression up enough to make it worth while.

Here's about the most I can come up with on those pistons and myself I wouldnt build it like this..

.035" piston to head clearance (have block decked)
4.060" bore head gasket
Mill heads to 56 cc

That comes out to 9.60:1

Now lets go more real world.. .025" deck, 4.100" x .015" gaskets

9.5 with 56 cc heads
9.3 with 58 cc heads
9.12 with 60 cc head

Just not real way to get the compression to 10:1 with those pistons on a 355

Alright well lets say ill get a new set of pistons to reach that kind of compression, what would you suggest without breaking the bank majorly, sorry for soo many questions im just not familiar with this stuff and have never built an engine dont get scared though i have many friend to help who have. Mortec says my heads are: 3782461....64-66...327......Camel hump,no accessory holes,160/62cc port volumes,62cc chamber. And its all on the stock deck block.

well being you said 99% street use.. Then I would recommend a set of speed pro hyper pistons like the ones I'm running. Summit part # STL-H345NP30 $12 each

You can't run boost or very much N20 on hypers, and you have to make sure you don't ping..

But they are light, cheap, and makes the compression.

Now with those pistons and your 62 cc heads if you run the 4.100" x .015" gaskets you will have 10.18: compression.. Being you are new to this, I wouldnt recommend the 272/284* crane cam like I have.. I would go up in size just a little to kill off some of the cyl pressure. 218 psi is way too much for a newbie to start with and try to tune for. More than likly you will end up pinging bad, break a ring land off the piston or just bust a piston

Then if you want to good with boost later, you always have your forged blower pistons you could put back in it.

Also another thought would be to build a mild boosted engine.. Keep the pistons you have, and look for a used blower.. One of the smaller roots "under hood" as they call it blowers. Or enough a new one for $1500

If you don't have the funds for that right now but will later, then maybe just build the long block as you would for a blower engine.. Run it with the lower compression.. It will get you around and won't be too weak. Then put a blower or turbos on it when you get the funds

Hmm those pistons are a screaming deal, though hows the quality on them? Ive always went by the saying you get what you payed for. Though i have heard nothing but good things about that brand so far. Hmm dont see the wrist pins for sale though that match those pistons. Im still worried about running 10.18:1 compression on the california piss water 91 we have around here, that may cause pinging to be an issue or not. And again thanks for all the help and advice

70TT... Your welcome...
Didn't know you was in cali with that sorry 91 octane.. Mine I can't run under 93 octane on, but remember cam size plays a major role in that.. I cammed mine on the small side to build cyl pressure to get max torque and VE through the whole power band..

A little larger cam would drop my cyl pressure down..

As far as quality on those pistons.. They are great. It's the only brand hypers I will put in any engine.. KB, badger, and all the others IMO are junk. They expand way too much with heat, causing the rings to butt together, so to fix this you have to file fit the rings and open gap up larger..

The speed pro hypers you don't have to do that with..

Here's some pics of mine.
Pics took around Mar. 2004.. Engine fired up a couple mo. later.. Been driving it every sence and beating the piss out of it every time I drive it lol. From spring 04 to fall 05 I was at the drag strip just about every weekend running it

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1125412116041290424JiMEAh
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1125414965041290424NKaFtH
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1125419881041290424xcrOgG
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1125438645041290424WJBTcP


BTW.. Those should come with the wrist pins for that price

Yeah i hate dealing with the quality of gas around here, though there is a station down the street that carries 100 octane hehe :bowtie: . Ill probably go with a bigger cam to lower the cylinder pressure a bit, but i dont want to loose much power by doing that, which cam would you suggest going with? And also if the compression ratio does become a problem with gas around here i could go with a slightly thicker head gasket to lower it a little. I gotta say that is one crazy looking setup you have going on inside your oil pan, if you dont mind me asking what are you using?

70TT...The parts inside my oil pan is oil controll parts.

7 qt, kicked out sump pan.

The big stainless tray thing is a screen type windage tray. The idea of it is to reduce the windage (drag from oil hitting crank)

The funny looking rectangle at rear is the oil pump pickup to match the pan depth.

The small flat gold colored thing at rear of the engine is a rear main oil baffle, to keep the oil from flooding the rear part of crank, seal, etc on a hard launch.


All of these oil controll parts helps to keep the engine alive longer and adds power.. It's been tested, and said a good pan and windage tray will give 20-40 HP extra.

Alright well i just ordered my pistons and rings, now i just have to figure out how much bigger i should go on the cam, any suggestions?

If it's a true street car and you want a wide power band, smoother idle, etc I would look for a LSA in the 114 range..

If you want more of a lope to it go 112 lsa.

Duration at .050" I would look at something in the 222 to 226 degree on the intake side and 8-12 degrees more than that on the exhaust side.

This should bleed of just enough cyl pressure. I'm not at my home PC so I don't have my programs to run a cyl prsi est. but I would guess at 196 +/- about 4 psi

Specs don't sound wild but it runs 11.40's @ 118 in my third gen camaro You've typed that so many times I bet even you are starting to believe it.

Specs don't sound wild but it runs 11.40's @ 118 in my third gen camaro

You've typed that so many times I bet even you are starting to believe it.

Clint, since you're from Nightrider's town, what do you mean that "even you are starting to believe it." Are you saying Nightrider's claims are fabrication?

Just asking.

Clint this is getting old man.. What has it been 2 or 3 years since your last bad comment towards me?? Then you lay quite for close to 2 years and say something again...

I see in the last 3 or 4 thread replies you made, you posted some smart mouth comment about ME, when the thread had NOTHING said or mentioned about me in them..

You even started a new thread in the BS. fourm on here just to run your mouth about me.

I'm sick and tired of the attacks online, on the board.. You got something to say, PM or email me.. I said this same thing last time.. PM me, or email me and I can give you my # and address and you can come over and see for your self, but I never heard back from you.. No PM, no email.

Hell come by my home, I got a feeling you live pretty close to me, and probbly know pretty close to where I live.

Otherwise this is BS and getting old, your remarks reflect the type of bitter person you are if your scared to be shown up by a "kid". I can not help it that you are an older, stuck in the stone age man, and mad cause someone half your age is doing what you can't do. To me that is what all of this is over.. You posted same degrading comments and when I came back with facts you got mad.. You probbly have much more in your car than me, you are older than me so of course you think you know more than I ever could, but you can't pull the times my budget junk is running and thats making you very mad.. Your not man enough to fess up, or even show up..

Car has been on the road for close to 4 years.. Only time you couldnt see it around town was last aug. to now due to 2 broke rear ends, and savinf for a ford 9"

PM me and drop by my house next week and I'll dump out the boot box full of time slips from all 3 tracks close by (Atlanta, Dallas, and LaGrange) Most from Atlanta and the old dallas 1/8th mile before it was closed down. and let you look over them..


Dirt... Man you know whats funny, Bremen is a very small hick town, all the racers and rodders pretty much knows each other, and any cars thats on the streets gets seen somewhere in town a few times a week... I have NEVER seen or heard hide or hair of clintB.. Not his car on the roads, no mention of him around town, nothing.

Mods/Admins... Sorry for my tone, I'm just tired of clints bad mouthing.. Yall are the admins, you can check Clints thread posts.. I have not spoke a word to or about the man since the locked thread 2 years ago.. Then out of the blue he just posts ransom stuff dealing with me and my car... Heck look at his posts for this year.. Half of all his posts this year has been to say something about me.

If yall have to delete my above comments so this thread can stay alive please do so. I feel this thread has alot of usefull info for people and seems to be a great help to 70TT.

Night -- you answered for yourself just fine, imo. Clint has been here a long time so I was curious as to where his comments came from, out of the blue. In any case, I think it's obvious you are a straight-up guy and have done more with less than just about any of us here. I have to admit I was a sceptic myself at first a few years ago, but over time have accepted your build as legit after you have consistently given the exact same info repeatedly over the years.

If you get the Vortecs on your car, I for one will be highly interested in your results. :cool:

Dirt, Thanks man.. I'm glad somebody here thinks I'm not BSing folks.

I mean really I post on here not to brag, but to help others.. I do mention my times alot because I'm so proud of what I did and what I run.. Also to show others it can be done.. I have a post count around 5,000.. Very few has been to ask questions, and very few has been in the BS or SP part of this site.. I'm here to share the info I have and to help people out.

Dirt, you know I was just as shocked as you or anybody when me car ran what it did/does..

Trying to move off the subject of ClintB..

The vortecs I think will be a great head upgrade for me, but dirt whats your thoughts on the compression..

We both have the same idea why mine runs as strong as it does.. Thats the 218 psi cyl. pressure..

My 462's are 62cc chambers.. Vortecs is 64cc right? That will move my SCR from 10.18:1 down to 9.78:1 and you know thats gonna kill off probbly 15 to 20 psi..

You think run them at 64cc or spend the extra up front to have about .012" to .014" milled off them to bring chambers back down to 62cc before I install them??

Vortecs are 62cc's when measured according to the mags as well as a few guys I've seen over the years on various boards who have had theirs cc'ed. Some have seen 63cc's, but it 'appears' that 62 is the norm. With their fast-burn style chamber and need for low total timing (around 32° total) it all looks like it will all work well in your favour. Since you worked over your camel-humps pretty heavily, if you do the same to the Vortecs who knows where you'll end up power-wise. Page 8 of the 'Vortec sticky topic' shows some well-ported Vortec head examples. The pic of the VPE head shows some interesting chamber modifications.

Thanks Dirt.. I thought I read published info that said 64cc. Glad you pointed that out. Now I feel even better about using vortecs.. When I get a pair I'll CC them and see what they come out to.

I think these will work great for me.. Yeah you know I'm not gonna leave them as casted.. I'll break out the die grinders, bits, stones and rolls. Give the vortec heads a good port job and who knows where I'll end up ET/MPH wise but I'm sure it will be better than my 462's gave me

Right now it's not really a power upgrade though as much as it's a got to do thing.

I had a streak of bad luck.. Broke that 1 rear, swapped parts (locker, axles, etc) over into another one and broke it the next weekend out..

Then just a few weeks ago heads cracked.

Pass side had a crack at the side of the #4 cyl chamber, and driver side head had 2 cracks both on at the exhaust valve seats.. #1 and #5 cyl

Last year you said you would email me the next time you went to a drag strip. I haven't got that email yet. Haven't seen where anyone has witnessed the the event yet. Since vortec are better heads, I guess we'll see the first 10 sec. vortec car before long. Why don't you write one of your long BS post and have me banned from this site??

Dirt, Thanks man.. I'm glad somebody here thinks I'm not BSing folks.

I mean really I post on here not to brag, but to help others.. I do mention my times alot because I'm so proud of what I did and what I run.. Also to show others it can be done.. I have a post count around 5,000.. Very few has been to ask questions, and very few has been in the BS or SP part of this site.. I'm here to share the info I have and to help people out.

Dirt, you know I was just as shocked as you or anybody when me car ran what it did/does..

Trying to move off the subject of ClintB..

The vortecs I think will be a great head upgrade for me, but dirt whats your thoughts on the compression..

We both have the same idea why mine runs as strong as it does.. Thats the 218 psi cyl. pressure..

My 462's are 62cc chambers.. Vortecs is 64cc right? That will move my SCR from 10.18:1 down to 9.78:1 and you know thats gonna kill off probbly 15 to 20 psi..

You think run them at 64cc or spend the extra up front to have about .012" to .014" milled off them to bring chambers back down to 62cc before I install them??
You're here to help and people here believe in you, and your miricle engine is worth copying. So lets here from all those people that you helped build a mid 11 second car. O, I forgot, I built an engine like that last year, it ran 11.20, lets see you beat that, its easy , just hit the 0 key instead of the 4.

Clint, that's about enough out of you on here.

You wanna converse with him, take it off the board or you'll be getting an all expenses paid trip to BANNED CAMP.....

No threats, just how it works my friend.....

Sorry to have to lock this....but if'n you wanna talk Vortecs, start another post please.....