for you folks that only say what junk the stock heads are. Just remember chevy made millions of them, for a daily driver I dont really think you can go wrong with a rebuilt stock head. Now after hearing about $400+ cost for rebuilding a pair of heads I got to looking at Checkers web site, you can get a rebuilt head for $159. exch. with a 1 year warranty.
So for a driver type motor. Can anyone see anything wrong with this setup? Im sure not everyone here needs vortecs or alloy heads. Im sure that some lemons get through. Ive got a few sets of stock heads sitting around, I was going to toss them, but they would save me the core charge. Anyone else want to come clean and say they actually used these or similar heads? Jim

You get what you pay for.

after going through 4 crankshafts from them cause of imperfection or plain old junks passed off as good, i wouldn't recommand them to no one.

but it is your money.

look around i am sure there are decent priced heads for new.

go talk to your local machine shop and they might have a set of heads for you already built and ready to go.

something to think about.

Im just talking daily driver type stuff. When you start reading all the posts about engine rebuilds etc you would think everyone has a money tree growing in they're back yards. It just seems nobody can build a 350 chevy for under a grand anymore. Theres a shop in Phoenix that advertises a 350 chevy long block for 749 exch. 454 short block 699 or 1099 for a long block exch. with a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty. their heads are 159 exch. too. Jim

but i wanted more power then a stock 350 would deliver,

i got a set of 462 heads rebuilt while back for $250, new springs and decked and magnafluxed,

machine work would be $175 for a good block, but if it needs to be bored, add $150 more.


then go to Northern parts and get the 350 kits with the over bored psiton for cheap, like $300 for the kit i think it was.

reusing all of the tins and rebuilding the carb and reusing the intake, and overhaul the distributor($80).

then add $300 for all of the odd ends stuff that will pop up like oil and antifreeze and little gasket and water pump and starter and alternator(as this stuff always goes out when you rebuild a motor and reuse them.

that right there is $1105 without boring the block.

you could skip the machine work, but it won't last long if it got alot of miles on it and you are just burning up money on a high mileage block.


i think the realistic goal is $1500 if the block needs machine work done.

$1000 for no machine work.

Then there are cheap deals you can get too, so the possiblity is endless. just how fast you want to go! lol

here you go, but don't forget the added cost of the extra at the bottom that you will need in your build up, I've used one of these kits, and i was pretty happy with it. made a nice solid bottom end for a buddy's truck. i put the engine together and then we dropped it in his truck and it had 45,000 miles on it and it was running good when he sold it.

http://www.naparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=380

here is a kit i built using that site,

Chevy 350 69-80
mainbrgs: std
pistons: .030
rings: .030
rodbrgs: std
FrostPlugs: Brass + $9.40
CloyesDoubleRollerTiming: Cloyes Double Roller 3 Key-way C3023XSP + $10.79
Gaskets: FelPro # KS2600 + $22.70
Camshaft: Comp 2200-5200 RPM #12-210-2 268/268 adv Duration .454/.454 lift Valve Springs Must be changed,Not Computer Compatible + $79.64
HypereutecticPistons: Hypereutectic Pistons Coated Skirt Flattops #H345NCP + $44.10
MolyRings: moly + $11.74
CompLifters: Comp Lifters + $43.24
NewCrank: Scat New Crankshaft Cast/Steel #910442 2 Piece rear main + $164.99 Master Kit #1070 $169.99
Total: $556.59

i recommand new crankshaft, cause by the time you spend the money to get one resurface you are close to buying that crankshaft.

I did a northern auto kit for a 307. It was the only core I had at the time. I think the kit was about $270 dollars, then had the crank turned, bored, R&R pistons, cam bearing installed, valve job with 1.94 valves installed. Ive got about 65000 miles on it now. its starting to smoke and using oil, but I had to bore it 60 over. from what I understand its not recommended on a 307. I think I had less than 800 dollars in that motor. Not to mention it was installed in a 77 suburban with all three seats, dual AC etc.
I was just tossing this out for folks that don't realize there are ways to get your car running without spending a whole lot of money.
Personally Id perfer to stick a mild 454 in the camaro and be done with it. Jim

65000 miles on it???

when did you do this rebuild? times has change and prices has gone up too! lol

as for big block, if done right they can shine too. But for some reason i still like small blocks.

I have helped build bigblocks, nothing to them, but when you start adding performance parts they can get expensive.

Im thinking big block for the camaro, but first Im going to do the 4 speed swap. I bought a 71 el camino just for the muncie. It was going to go in my 70 chevelle. but, my wife talked me out of it. I found a guy local with the pedals and linkage, Im going to pick them up saturday. I just need to order a balance plate for a small block 400, Ive got a 14 inch flywheel, 621 bell, housing, M20 tranny, lousy stock shifter, cast iron nose starter. After that, next up for the camaro is to get the 12 bolt installed. Then maybe put one of my rat motors together.
All this while I put the el camino back together too. (just did the SS dash and wiring) just drop in the motor and shes running. Jim

For a true 100% daily driver, get you from point A to point B yeah stock recond heads is fine.. But then again if thats all the car is for why not just buy some FWD econo car that will get over double the fuel mileage.

Now if you want a daily driver with power.. It changes. 90% of all those millions of stock heads is junk, and won't cut it.

If your trying to get better fuel mileage, more power, etc then you got to think torque, and VE. low compression aint the answer. Got to get compression up to 9 to 10:1.. That's not gonna happen on a 350 with 72, 74, or 76 cc heads which is what MOST chevy heads was.

Ok next is flow #'s, intake runner cc, and valve size. Sure theres the old 283 power pak heads with 52 to 58 cc chambers but the intake ports are too small for a 350 engine turning more than 3500 rpm.. It chokes the engine.

Ok your cheaker, advance, auto zone, pep boys recond heads are fine for that snail that you haul junk to the dump with, or that daily driven beater, but once you want better mileage, more power, etc the work done to those heads along with parts in them makes them trash.

I know for a fact how advance auto parts stuff gets rebuild and its a joke. Engines, trannys, and heads.. The workers are ordered to only replace broke or worn past useable parts. Every valve seat in those heads WILL NOT get re ground, so you may end up with some leakage and there goes your power if your compression is leaking back out of the cyl through the valve.

Worm valve guides don't get replaced, they get knuckled and stock cleaned up used valves goes back in, or they get reamed and heavy, oversize stemed valves goes in. Very bad for oil controll. Oil getting into chamber will cause detonation..

Then the heavier valves will cause valve float sooner.

Next is the springs.. Junk if you have a better cam.. They might be able to handle .425" lift but I wouldnt try it.. Being stock engines had low lift .380" to .410" lift and thats the springs you get.. Some will be new replacements, some will be cleaned up used, stock ones.. After all that use you know the spring has lost height and pressure.

Just my take on it

For a true 100% daily driver, get you from point A to point B yeah stock recond heads is fine.. But then again if thats all the car is for why not just buy some FWD econo car that will get over double the fuel mileage.

Now if you want a daily driver with power.. It changes. 90% of all those millions of stock heads is junk, and won't cut it.

If your trying to get better fuel mileage, more power, etc then you got to think torque, and VE. low compression aint the answer. Got to get compression up to 9 to 10:1.. That's not gonna happen on a 350 with 72, 74, or 76 cc heads which is what MOST chevy heads was.

Ok next is flow #'s, intake runner cc, and valve size. Sure theres the old 283 power pak heads with 52 to 58 cc chambers but the intake ports are too small for a 350 engine turning more than 3500 rpm.. It chokes the engine.

Ok your cheaker, advance, auto zone, pep boys recond heads are fine for that snail that you haul junk to the dump with, or that daily driven beater, but once you want better mileage, more power, etc the work done to those heads along with parts in them makes them trash.

I know for a fact how advance auto parts stuff gets rebuild and its a joke. Engines, trannys, and heads.. The workers are ordered to only replace broke or worn past useable parts. Every valve seat in those heads WILL NOT get re ground, so you may end up with some leakage and there goes your power if your compression is leaking back out of the cyl through the valve.

Worm valve guides don't get replaced, they get knuckled and stock cleaned up used valves goes back in, or they get reamed and heavy, oversize stemed valves goes in. Very bad for oil controll. Oil getting into chamber will cause detonation..

Then the heavier valves will cause valve float sooner.

Next is the springs.. Junk if you have a better cam.. They might be able to handle .425" lift but I wouldnt try it.. Being stock engines had low lift .380" to .410" lift and thats the springs you get.. Some will be new replacements, some will be cleaned up used, stock ones.. After all that use you know the spring has lost height and pressure.

Just my take on it

good advice...;)