in all the stuff ive been reading,it keeps getting recomended that i plug the hole in the oil filter adapter that allows oil to bypass the filter...the only thing is on mine it has a spring loaded flap in the hole..should i still plug it or does this act as the same thing?

Leave it alone, use a good oil & filter, change every 3,000mi or 6 months and you will be ok. Actually if the filter/oil is changed as it should be, you should never go into bypass; I realize there are always extenuating circumstances. Just make sure you replace the break in oil as soon as the cam is broke in, if it's a flat tappet. I don't remember what you are putting together. I'm sure there will be a lot of testimonials, you can also see them on TV... :)

I am just getting ready to plug mine actually. I read i a couple of my books that if you use a high pressure pump that the pressure can overcome the spring pressure and the oil will bypass the filter. Coincidentally when my friend and I checked mine out the little flap was cocked in the hole. Bunch of brass around it too. Not good. I would recommend plugging it.

Really- there is no "technical" right or wrong on this one- it really comes down to a person's personal preferences more than anything.

I ran an engine of mine with the bypass plugged and a high-volume pump and everything was fine for the first couple of seasons, then I plugged up the filter and blew oil all over the ground one day and it was only coincidental that it happened while I was in the car monitoring gauges and saw the drop in oil pressure almost immediately. Had I been driving down the road- chances are pretty good that I might not have noticed for 10 minutes and then engine would've been seized rather nicely. SO- my personal opinion now is that I'll leave a working bypass in place and if something goes bad in the engine and doesn't get filtered causing grief- oh well- probably better that than losing the whole engine if the filter clogs and I'm not staring at the oil pressure gauge when it happens.

If you feel compelled to block the bypass- I might suggest you don't use a high-volume pump anyways- the high volume unit will only blow out a clogged filter that much faster.

We build a lot of engines at our engine shop and plug every bypass on every engine we build and a good filter is a must such as a NAPA 1061 and we have had customers call with low oil pressure and to find out that they installed a Fram filter and when it was changed back to a 1061 filter everything was fine.

So that tells you that using a cheap filter that does not have much filter paper in it like a Fram that the bypass would be open all the time. Not hard to figue out.

As an engine builder I highly suggest plugging the bypass and we do this on all our SBC engines, Circle track, Strip and street performance engines with no issues.

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Im thinking my stopped up filter cost me 3 cams last year, my oil pressure dropped to 0 lbs changed the filter immediatly and the cam was gone the next time i hit the road three times just like that?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by cody:
in all the stuff ive been reading,it keeps getting recomended that i plug the hole in the oil filter adapter that allows oil to bypass the filter...the only thing is on mine it has a spring loaded flap in the hole..should i still plug it or does this act as the same thing?</font>


Plugged mine. Had no prob with that issue. Let the engine warm up is a must. Smooth oil flow through the filter is imperative.

If you do plug the bypass, take your time and slowly warm -up the engine before driving off.

Remember that cold oil is thicker and as stated above can blow-out an average oil filter.

NAPA filters are made by WIX. Either are pretty good and have good pressure capacity. I've had good luck with the K & N filters even though their are more expensive. I like the 1" hex nut on the bottom and the safety wire holes too.

At one time, Fram filters were banned from a few road course tracks in California since they blew at higher pressure. I never believed this until it happened to me on a car with a high volume oil pump, higher pressure spring and a blocked-off bypass. The car was cold and I did the stupid thing and revved it just after starting. I wasted 2-1/2 gallons of fresh synthetic all over the pits! Stupid! After that, we only ran Oberg or System 1 cleanable oil filters. These are great for dyno or racing but since they don't go to a finer micron rating, I'd rather use a K & N for a street vehicle.


Just plug the bypass, use a good quality oil filter, and keep up on the oil changes!

[This message has been edited by Kamikaze (edited September 06, 2005).]

so is that the only issue with revving it when its cold?(busting the filter)

b/c thats excactly what i need to do when i break in my cam...as long as i watch the filter/gauge i should be fine for that?

[This message has been edited by cody (edited September 06, 2005).]

Use a good Wix filter and you will be fine its only the cheap filters that have problems.

Member Goat has a remote filter with a pressure guage before & after the filter.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kamikaze:

NAPA filters are made by WIX.

NAPA filters are NOT made by WIX. WIX filters are not made by WIX. Dana Corporation makes about 1/3 of all oil filters available including WIX, NAPA, Power Flow, and an assload more.

Allied Signal, Purolator, and Champ Laboratories make 99% of what's left with K&N and such companies making the remaining 1%.

This topic has been discussed on here before. Example was Motorcraft filters for instance. Nothing more than a Purolator Pure One element inside a Purolator Premium case. And it cost a fraction of what a Pure One costs. I think most of us agree that Fram filters don't amount to much more than a spiffy TV commercial. I personally will not use Fram products.

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