I'm looking for suggestions to stop my belts from squealing. I've played with the tension many many times, from extremely tight, to loose and everywhere in between. I just tried spray on belt dressing, didn't change a thing

The thing is, they only squeal when the engine suddenly changes RPM, like during a heavy acceleration, they will not squeal until the instant the transmission shifts, then they will stop.

I have a Transgo shift reprogrammer kit in my Th-350 and it shifts very firmly. It almost seems as if the narrow surface of the V-rib is not enough surface area to grip during the shift.

The engine is a mild 350, 10-1 compression, headers, comp cams magnum 270-h cam w/ edelbrock performer intake. I'm thinking I'm in the 330-350 HP range, but I really don't know???? Is that enough to have these belt problems?

THanks!

Are the pulleys aligned correctly? If so, then I would just replace the belt. Maybe go with one slightly wider.

I've solved a few squeaky belts before. Which belt is squealing? PS belt (if you've got it) or alternator?

Make sure if you have power steering that the pump is aligned - the spacer for the headers may not be correct and can throw off that pulley.

Other than that, take them off, do a close inspection, cuts, cracks, glazing.. and don't use belt dressing.
My belt only ever squealed when the alternator was loose and just tightening it up by prying on the alt with a crowbar and tightening the two bolts, one on top of the alt, one in the slot to keep it set.. did the trick for me.

Trouble is, I can't tell if it is coming from the power steering pump, or the alternator, since I can only get it to squeal when I'm driving it.

Can I leave the power steering belt off to rule out the alternator and drive it around? Will the lack of the pump mess up my steering box? Hence the reason for a manual steering box?

Both belts are new

Thanks!

I see you have headers.

By any chance did you remove the rear power steering pump bracket? You know, the one that goes to the #1 cylinder exhaust port...

I inadvertantly took mine off (thinking it was not needed) and the pump made a bit of noise :)

EDIT: See this link for pics: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76315&highlight=power+steering+pump+bracket

I still have most of that bracket (I cut it down a bit since I removed the AC as well) I belive the pump and alternator are in allignment, but what is the best way to check...

Still wondering if I drive the car without the power steering belt will I hurt the steering box?

Thanks for the replies.
Chris

Wouldn't it be easier to drop the alternator belt first, just for testing purposes, the car would drive the same, but wouldn't have much range.
I had a simular squeal after we put the car back together, mine turned out to be cockpit error, I bought some chome pulleys and didn't look at the old ones soon enough, I had a 2 groove on the water pump and a 2 groove on the crank, I replaced both the alternator belt and the power steering belt with the same length belts, I ran the power steering belt from the crank over the water pump and then to the power steering pump. I got rid of the squek when I replaced the water pump pulley with the correct 1 groove pulley and a shorter belt.

the only way u could really hurt a p/s pump is by driving it without fluid.

power steering pumps are tough. If you drive without it running it wont hurt squat but your arms. You can also run the pumps without fluid for a while without any problems.

I used to have the same problem with my aluminum pulleys, this is how I fixed the damn belts
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/456000-456999/456765_50_full.jpg

maybe try a dayco top cog belt. nothing but good things said about using those belts.