I just switched to aluminum heads and am wondering how tight the spark plugs should be...on the old iron heads I just used a 3/8th rachet and got em as tight as I could.

Just tracking down a problem I'm having and noticed tightening up a few spark plugs I could get too easily seemed to help clear it up a little.

Nick

Before you install spark plugs in any aluminum cylinder head make sure you go get some Anti-seize compound and apply it to the spark plug threads. It will prevent them from freezing (getting stuck)in the head. I suggest you get yourself a torque wrench to apply the reccomended torque. Or if you dont tighten them just snug. Dont crank down on them

here is how we install plugs on our dirt track car with aluminum heads:

1] coat threads of plugs with enough anti-seize to cover threads

2] tighten by hand until threads bottom out

3] snug up with wrench then go 1/4 turn more

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1972 chevy camaro ss
425HP 350sbc old school build-up

restification in progress 70's baldwin motion NHRA gasser with old school day2 parts
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if it's to loud your to old

AFR directions say to not use a torque wrench cause they can be misleading, it says just tighen up with a wrench..but doesn't say how tight.

Don't put to much anti-seize on the threads as it will find it way to the spark plugs.The next time you check them you may notice a grey silver coat to the porcelin. This is a result of the anti-seize getting onto the plugs. Use it moderately and only hand tighten and then put an additional quarter turn with the wrench. I use an AFR head also.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by AllGoNoShow:
AFR directions say to not use a torque wrench cause they can be misleading, it says just tighen up with a wrench..but doesn't say how tight.</font>
I can see that. Not to many people have good torque wrenches. Im used to wrenches calibrated every 90 days

All they have to be is snug. Think Simpson not Sampson.

Here's the spec torque for plugs (who can fit a darn torque wrench/socket on plugs in a car anyway??)

Alum. heads
Taper seat plugs 7-14 ft lbs.
Gasket seat plugs 18-21 ft lbs.

Iron heads
Taper seat plugs 11-18 ft lbs.
Gasket seat plugs 18-25 ft lbs.

I have to use a combo of open end and boxed end wrench to get to mine, so I do like all the other guys said.. Snug em' up then 1/4 turn after snug.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by night rider:
Here's the spec torque for plugs (who can fit a darn torque wrench/socket on plugs in a car anyway??)

</font>
I have, my torque wrench that reads 0 to 350 inch pounds is not very big at all

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Rick WI:
All they have to be is snug. Think Simpson not Sampson.</font>


Would that be Mr. Homer Simpson?

Yes, lowly ol Homer.

Has anyone had problems tightening # 5 and #6 cylinders on AFR Heads?

Headers are in way so you can't get a socket in there...and the head bolt bosses are huge and you can't fit the close end of a 5/8th wrench in place...and how much the plugs go in the heads and how little the nut is on the ac delco plugs, its very diffcult to get the open end in there without hitting the boss and without rounding the nut.

Take a decent 5/8" offset box end wrench to the grinder and make the box end a very THIN WALL wrench. Works like a champ. The wrench is useless for anything else, but like already stated, you don't need to strong arm the plugs, just seat the gasket and give it 1/8 to 1/4 turn to give the gasket some 'crush'. When you pull used plugs keep in mind the gasket has already been crushed once and all you need is enough to seat the gasket,, no more crush!!!. However, if your like me and index the plugs,, it hard to resist that additional twist to bring it around where you want it.