I have had the busiest weekend removing a bad motor and installing another one. This is my first time to do it.

The engine cranks but won't start. It does not even show any signs of wanting the start.I was very careful when setting piston #1 to TDC.

I also noticed smoke coming from the ground wire running from the battery to the inner fender.

I would appreciate any help. Thank you.

First. did you put a ground strap from the engine to the frame? (you already have one from the battery to the frame)

Then check to see if you have fuel going down the carb, just hit the throttle linkage and see if it is squirting.

Then check to see if you have spark, pull one of the wires off the plug and put it near something metal on the engine (NOT THE CARB!!), have someone crank the engine and see if the spark is jumping.

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building a pro/street 78Z
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I would check the spark first. Than fuel
Instead of holding the wire to something close I usually put a screw driver in the wire hole and set it close to something. that way you can crank the motor yourself

thanks guys, I have spark (the screwdriver thing works real good) and I also have fuel at the carb. However I don't have a ground strap from engine to frame.....I am working on it. The battery has also been seating for some time and I am thinking it is low.
anyother ideas?

If you have spark and fuel loosen the distributer a tiny bit. rotate it in either direction then give it a few cranks see if it wants to catch if not move it some more than try the other way

When I was getting the timing set, I used 8 degrees BTDC for static timing. This is an 1981 engine. Does that screw anything up.( I followed the instructions on "How to rebuild a small block chevy" book.

I did move the distributor alittle bit ( just alittle) I will try moving it more see what happens.

Once again thanx for ur time guys.

[This message has been edited by schitzo (edited August 07, 2005).]

nah, 8 btdc is fine.

Upadate

As of this morning, I fixed the grouds...got a ground from block to sub frame and one from neg of batt to frame..both by the fuel pump. I also got a new batt coz the old one was out.

However the problem still persists http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/frown.gif This time when I crank, it shoots gas out of the carb and backfires with a loud pop.

Are this signs indicative of bad timing? Like I said I was very careful when getting the timing set. But then again it was my first time and I could have gone wrong somewhere.

If so how can I get the timing right. I am by myself so "the finger in the spark plug hole and crank" thing won't work.

Thanks guys

Big progress....the car actually started but did not run for long. I reset the timing and changed the distributor (used an old HEI one that was lying around) However when I tried to start it again, the batt was too weak for the motor to crank. The volt gauge reads almost zero. So I am taking to the batt back to the guys and hopefully when I get that taken careof the car will start.

you can do the spark plupg hole thing by yourself, but instead of you finger, stick a paper towel loosely in the hole... when the compression stroke comes up, the paper towel will shoot out... then rotate the crank to 0* - you will be at TDC at #1

EUREKA.

The thing is finally up and running. I cannot tell you how happy I am. I fixed the elec problem.....turns out the + connection at the batt was poor. She runs smooth and the oil pressure holds at 40 psi.. however I noticed a slight oil leak at the back by the filter. It is not coming from the oil pressure hose fitting. i will check tha tommmorrow. I only let her run for a little bit coz I don't want anything to go wrong. I have to crosscheck everything.

I also want to thank all you guys who pitched in your ideas. I love this board. (insert oohhhh here)

Thanks guys.

Gratz- and enjoy it!