this is the follow up of the engine won't crank post. ive got a engine works 286h cam which is the equivilant to a comp cams 280h. here are the specs:
lift:.480/.480
lobe sep.:110
adv. duration:286/286
duration @50:231/231

i can't get it to run. it idles a little rough in park but i guess that is just the way the cam is. but as soon as you put it in drive it dies. when it's idling in park you can adjust the two mixture screws and it doesen't even affect anything, it's a edelbrock performer 600cfm. i got my dad to set the timing and seems to be right. i also haven't put the stall torque converter in yet. but i thought it would still idle in gear at least a little but it won't at all. ive got a summit 2000 stall converter it flashes between 1700-2200. i thought i wouldnt need a stall too big but after i got the motor in i wished i would have got a larger stall.

Well Dave, from what it sounds like to me is either 2 things. One which is a bad thing especially with an unbroken in cam, is that you have the valves to tight and is restricting the motor. If you know you have the valves pretty much dead on the most common problem is probably having the intake not sealed up very well. One small leak can cause a big problem. Go around the intake and spray a little carb cleaner and if the idle picks up Bingo there is your problem. Its really easy to mess up on the intake seal, ive done it twice. If you used the stock rear and front seals on that could be an issue. Use a good quality RTV and that should help. Keep me posted.
Travis

thanks for the input. ive adjusted on the valves 4 or 5 times to make sure they were right. as for the intake gasket i put a layer of rtv on on the top and bottom of the new gasket and i put some where the paper gasket meets front and rear rubber gasket. my dad had the same problem on a 68 cougar with about the same size cam, actually this is the carb off of the car. he put an adapter on it with a ford 2 barrel and fixed it. im thinking of doing that so i can at least move it around until i get everything for the trans swap.cause ive got a good running ford carb and an adapter.i was also wandering if it had anything to do with it not getting enough vacuum




[This message has been edited by daves 76 rs (edited July 30, 2005).]

Ok... 1st take the metering rods out of carb. (very top, 1 on each side, funny shaped cover) make sure they are straight and not bent.

If good put em' back in.

Take the two idle mixure screws all the way out of the carb, spray carb cleaner into the holes where they go. If you have an air compressor blow in them with your air hose too.

Clean the mixure screws with cleaner and wipe off.

Put them back in, lighty seat them all the way in, now turn them 1-1/2 to 2 rounds out each. This is only a rough baseline you will retune with vac gauge later.

Take the vac line that goes to the dist. and hook it up to the small port on the front driver's side of carb.

Make sure any un used ports are pluged. You have 3 on front and 1 on rear total.

Block the wheels, have somebody to help you. Have them in the car, crank it, put thier foot hard on brake, and drop it into drive.

Now tune the idle speed to the slowest stable speed you can get. With that converter and cam, you should be able to idle at 700-800 RPM in gear.. Cause of the slight converter/cam mis match the Park idle will be alittle higher at around 1,000-1,100 rpm

NOTE... I just re-read your post... Nothing wrong with your engine at all!!!!

If you have a tight stock stall converter on with that cam, you will HAVE TO HAVE a park idle of anywhere from 1200 to 1500 rpm, just to get it at a 'in gear' idle of 700 rpm

after reading your post and some of the responses. it seems that they are thinking as i am.

you have a vacume leak somewhere. the places are carb plate to intake. (carb gasket sen better days). or your not willing to crank down on the carb in fear that you'll crack the carb base plate which is a real possibllty. more likely its your intake to head seeal. if you have washers on those boltss give it a good little pull. i'll assume that you have an aluminum intake onto iron heads which is a small and disimilar metal. becareful. beware of stupid. it happens. try that carb clearner on the intake and carb mateing surfaces with soemone in the car to watch the tach. if rpm goes up you found the bad guy.

carlos mendes
bizmanracing
s/st 1739

also make sure that the mateing surfaces are true...... since i'm not a fan of your carb. swap that out with a buddys to ensure that the carb is not bogus.

carlos mendes
bizmanracing
s/st 1739

i agree, im not a big fan of edelbrock carbs either, ive when through two the one i have and i my uncle bought a new one and let me try it before he put it on and it done the same. suprisingly enough i put the ford 2 barrel on and it runs good, i still have to hold the brake and gas to keep in running in gear but before i changed carbs i couldn't even do that. so now i can move it around until i get my stall converter in. i can put the edelbrock on my 48 chevy pickup with a stock 305 and i runs and idles perfect. it's like theese carbs don't like large cams. ive got an extra quadrajet im gonna rebuild for it cause the ford carb runs good but isn't real practical because it doesen't has a place for a pcv valve. im gonna check some of the things you suggested to see if i can see something wrong with the edelbrock.

Edelbrock carbs are great carbs IMO. I been running them for the last 6 years or so.

On my car now, I have a 10.18:1 355, 272*/284* cam, .484"/.512" lift. I use a 600 cfm eddy carb.

The car was running 12.80's @ 118 MPH last year. Over the winter I worked on my suspension and chassis, now I got it down to 12.20's at the same MPH.

With sticky tires I could run mid 11's.

So that should show that you can use them on higher HP engines.. There's quite a few guys on here in the 13's, 12's etc with these carbs.

To me it just sounds like 1) you have the eddy carb out of adjustment, 2) the 2bbl is acting as a band-aid.

that is what i don't understand ive had the carb on 2 stock 305 engines and it runs fine, but i put it on a ford 390 with larger cam and it wouldn't run, it was doing the same thing as it done on my 350.