Alright what is that best set-up and spring size to use for break in and or normal use for a lunati voodo 60103 with 268 adv. and 489 on the intake and 507 on the exhaust, running modified vortecs and 9:7 comp. And also what pushrods do i need when running vortecs?? Is still the same stock 5/16"???

[This message has been edited by work in progress (edited July 27, 2005).]

You *can* use the stock pushords, but I spent the $35 or so and bought a set of Crane hardened pushrods when I ran the Vortecs.

Doesn't Lunati have a guide for cam break-in for the Voodoo line? I thought I saw something on their website concerning following their break-in instructions.

------------------
'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds:
You *can* use the stock pushords, but I spent the $35 or so and bought a set of Crane hardened pushrods when I ran the Vortecs.

Doesn't Lunati have a guide for cam break-in for the Voodoo line? I thought I saw something on their website concerning following their break-in instructions.

</font>

My Voodoo cam came with break in instructions, but I'm not sure I agree with some of their advice, like using strait 30 weight oil for break in?

Using straight 30 weight oil is correct for any new engine or parts break in. Thats what I used for my engine break in and cam break in when swapping cams.

------------------
'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

Listen to and go by what ever Lunati says.

I'm not trying to put you down, or anything but I'm pretty sure they know more about this than you do.

Plus those cams (Voodoo) was designed, and made by a pretty well know cam grinder. Harold owner of ultadyne cams is the "father" of Lunati's Voodoo line.

He was the go to man for all racers for many many years. Started grinding cams back in the early 70's.

So if the info says do this, run that, etc then that info is coming straight from Harold.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by night rider:
but I'm pretty sure they know more about this than you do.

</font>

Ya think? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

I remember years ago (long time) to use a heavier weight oil for break in, then more recently hearing to use lighter weight oil. Looks like the old way is the better way, I'll be using the 30 weight. Thanks for the help http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

Think about this... what washes heat and debris away better. A nice heavy, thick oil, or one that is as thin as water. Yes you need the protection of a stout base stock oil, but don't discount the advantage of cold flow and cooling of a thinner oil during cam breakin.

Only suggestion I'm going to make is be SURE whatever oil you use won't prevent you from making a claim if the cam goes away in the first few hunderd miles.

That's interesting you say that Marv, because that's the reason I was told to use the lighter weight oil, that it would wash away the debris better. Considering my source, I'm going with the 30 weight, thank's again for the reasurance Marv, I need all the help I can get. And thanks WIP for the threadjack http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by theflash (edited July 29, 2005).]

I used 15W-40 diesel for engine break in oil and when we dumped the oil on the dyno (at about 180 degrees) that stuff was thinner than water, I couldn't believe it.

------------------
Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

The reason you use 30 weight oil has to do with better engine protection during the critical break-in phase. There is less detergents - or maybe even none - in the straight 30 weight oil and that helps parts seat-in better. The downside - if you want to call it that - is if you keep using straight 30weight you have to be very vigilant with respect to changing oil frequently if you race the car at all. Mineral-based race oils are usually a straight grade of oil.

The multi-viscosity oils of today have a ton of detergents in them and are not what you want for initial break-in. While thats great for the engine once its on the road and driving in bumper to bumper traffic, it is not desireable for intial break-in for either the cam or a fresh engine build.

Racers have used straight 30-weight for decades in initial break-in, for a reason. It works.

------------------
'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52