What would you build? I want to be able to spin some good rpm but I want more displacement from my 350 and how many people have run a 377 and how did you like it ad how many have built a 406 and what did you like about it? I have a std 400 block with a 509 casting and now Im ready to build but Im really not sure which combo to go with.

[This message has been edited by spinmaster (edited July 07, 2005).]

i would opt for the 406. The 406 will make more power in the lower rpm, specifically, more torque. 2nd gen camaros arent light cars.. and they need torque to get movin. The added torque of a 406 over a 377 will make a similarly equipped engine (as far as heads/cam, etc) move the car faster.

406 can rev a little bit. I would say 6500 is a safe maximum rpm you want to hit. even if you have moderately large heads, like I do, you will probably find, however, your best power and ET will come when you shift around 6000 or thereabouts.. could be lower in certain cases.

377 always seems like a "sprint car" type of motor to me-- wants to run at higher rpms, sacrifices torque for higher RPM and HP that is harder on the engine.. and enjoys a lighter car and a lot more gear.

For street cars, the 406 gotta be the way to go. If you are gonna circle track race... the 377 could have the advantage in a lightened car with high gears.. for drag racing... well look at all the guys on this board with 406 running easy 11s with simple combos like vortec heads, etc.

Go for the cubes,,, you won't regret it.

406 it is then. I can build either for the same amount of money So I guess Ill go ahead and just go biogger cubes

for the street go with the more cubes

I agree, for a street motor the 406 would be very good choice. I built a 377 just to be a little different and I knew I couldnt be the fastest guy on the street anyway. The 377 is a nice package and likes to rev, its kind of like a big 302. As far as low end torque is concerned, yes it gives up some to the 406 but not to the 350.

The long stroke of a 406 will serve you better on the street.
The 377 is more of a Hi-RPM road racing motor

Well the block went to the machine shop yesterday and Ill know aboiut the shape itis in later this week. Im gonna wait untill he checks everything out before I order my rotating assembly. Anyone have any sugestions on who to oder one threw. Im wanting to buy a all forged and balanced kit but Im having trouble making up my mine on which one to buy.

Since you're ordering a new assembly, might as well go with a 3.800 or 3.875 stroke crank. Pretty much the same price as a SCAT 400 crank, and it will give you a nice increase.

How about a 3.625" crankshaft? Thats 393 cubes with 0.030" overbore. 6" rods would give it a 1.66 r/s ratio.
It would still rev but have more grunt than the 377. Just a thought. -tim

Do you guys think it will be ok to go with a bigger stroke with a stock 509 block? Will I have to use a small base circle camshaft if I go with a bigger stroke?

[This message has been edited by spinmaster (edited July 14, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by spinmaster:
Do you guys think it will be ok to go with a bigger stroke with a stock 509 block? Will I have to use a small base circle camshaft if I go with a bigger stroke?

[This message has been edited by spinmaster (edited July 14, 2005).]</font>

Small base circle is mandatory, depending on what lift cam you decide on. Many aftermarket rods are already cleananced for this, but you won't know until you check.

Im gonna go with a small basecircle cam. I was just wondering if there is diffrent sizes of the base to make clearance for larger stroke crankshafts or or they all the same. I never had to mess with a small base circle cam before and I really don't know much about them.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by spinmaster:
Im gonna go with a small basecircle cam. I was just wondering if there is diffrent sizes of the base to make clearance for larger stroke crankshafts or or they all the same. I never had to mess with a small base circle cam before and I really don't know much about them. </font>

The only thing you have to do is find out how much smaller the sbc cam is compared to a stock one, then buy that much longer pushrods.l

I ran a small base SOLID cam (Howards) in a 406 with 6" rods. I needed .100" longer push rods (make sure you measure). Also, #2 and #6 is where you want to look for interferance (rods and cam) using modeling clay on the cam. Rotate the assy. around to where #2 and #6 appear to hit the cam... Slid the cam out and measure the thickness of the clay.... No biggie. DO THIS BEFORE THE ASSEMBLY IS BALANCED.... IMO

Thanks guys for the info. I got the call from the machine shop and the block is in great shape. I asked themachenist if I should go ahead and stroke it out a little more and he said I could but it would put more strain on the block. So Im just gonna go ahead and buy the 406 kit and go with it. Do you guys have any cam suggestions? Im have a set of 215 Dart Iron eagle heads and these seem tro like the 406 when they were on my last one buty the cam I had was a comp cam 292 series with .501 lift. The motor almost sounded stock but had a nice punch in power from 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm. I would like to have a cam that will sound nasty like the cam in my 350 but Im not sure which one to go with. I can go with a hyd flat tappet or even do a roller cam swap. I really dont want to go solid because I mostly drive the care on the street but I guess 3000 miles or less a year would not keep me from going solid tappet or roller if I have to.