What parts do I need to make a 350 into a 383 stroker? Do I need to bore the engine as well?

Here you go!
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/450/products/577/383-Flat-Top-Rotating-Assembly.htm

But do I have to bore the engine over in order to make a 383?

Also, Can I use a stroker engine as a daily driver or should I hold of on stroking my engine unless its more or less a "race" car?

[This message has been edited by BlueCamaro (edited July 14, 2005).]

I will get flamed for saying this, I know, but it's how I feel on the whole stroker thing.

Strokers are more street engines than race engines IMO. The idea of a stroker is to add a longer stroke to make more torque... Great idea for a street car, dump truck, RV, etc..

They need the low 800-2500 rpm torque that a stroker adds.

A street/strip car, or full race car will never or very rarly see those low of rpm's, so what good is it to add torque under the RPM where you will be running the engine.

To answer your question... To make a 383 yes you have to bore the engine. A 383 is a 4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke..

A 350 is a 4.000" bore x 3.48" stroke..

Now you can put a 3.75" stroke crank in a 4.000" bore block. It will work just the same but will only give you 377 c.i.d

But IMO it's really foolish to rebuild an engine and not bore it. Boring one tures up the cyls, and makes sure they are all nice and round, and the right size.

As an engine wears, it tends to wear the bores at an angle. The top will become larger than the bottom. So boring it fixes that and gets it back like it should be.

To be truthful with you, and I don't mean to put you down or anything. If you have to ask about parts needed and bore size on a 383 stroker, then this will be your 1st build and you'll be better off building a simple, common 350.

With the 383 theres alot of little clearance probs that can pop up, and you may not have the skill and know how yet to grind the block, and or rods to gain the clearance.

A 350 is alot easier for a 1st timer to build. Just plastigage the journals, torque bolts to spec and check valve train clearances (valve to piston, retainter to guide, coil bind, etc)

A 383 is a 350 block with a 400 crank in the block. 3.75" stroke

A 377 is a 400 block with a 350, 305 crank 3.48" stroke.

My .02 is why not go with the 400 stuff, 30 over is a 406 cid. I could have gone 350, 383, or 400, I went with the 400, almost 4k in the build.

Some people want the better cooling 350 block, non siemesed block for their ride.

Its your preference, I would also want a famed 302 to turn the piss out of it...

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by night rider:
But IMO it's really foolish to rebuild an engine and not bore it. Boring one tures up the cyls, and makes sure they are all nice and round, and the right size.

As an engine wears, it tends to wear the bores at an angle. The top will become larger than the bottom. So boring it fixes that and gets it back like it should be.
</font>

This is what they make a power hone for. I disagree that you "have" to do it if the cylinders are in good shape. If the cylinder falls within tolerance, it will last just fine. I have done this on 2 engines. The first one ran another 100,000+ miles without any issues before I sold it. The guy who bought it from me didn't rebuild it for another 30,000 miles. The second one I just rebuilt is a big block. It sees 5000 RPM (the redline) every time it is driven. No problems with it at all.

Do you think race engines just bore the block every time they replace the rings? Lots of race engines are rebuilt MANY times before they bore up to the next size.

I see where you are coming on the 383, night rider, and yes... It would be my first build on making a stroker if I did.

Case closed on this topic http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/tongue.gif

73454... Your right, you can hone a good block and be fine.. Heck I done that myself many times, but how many stock used engines can get away with it?

About 7 out of every 10 I pull apart has a ridge at the top, tappered bore, etc.

Being blue didnt give any specs on his block, I'm thinking stock mid to late 70's 350 with no telling how many miles on it.

Those are the type cores I buy, and type running engines I pull down to build and like I said about 7 out of 10 needs boring.

You are right though on race engines. The block was bored out once, then gets freshened up many times. Not many miles or heat between rebuild though, just alot of passes. No lip at top of cyl, etc. On a block like that honeing for ring seal is the right way to go.