Ok, the engine is out of my car and I am detailing it. I removed my Edelbrock RPM intake to give it a proper cleaning. I also have all gasket surfaces cleaned on the engine as well, and am ready to re-install.

First of all, I did an extensive search on this topic here in the forum, and found mixed reviews. I was wanting to know the nuts and bolts if installing an aluminum intake. I am not a rookie at this, having installed many intakes years ago when I was heavily involved in cars. However, all of the intakes I used years ago were cast! From what I read, certain intake gaskets are not advisable for aluminum intakes.

Anyway, I called Edelbrock, and they suggested I either use their intake gasket set, or use a Felpro #1205. I can get the Felpro here locally, but notice that it has no provision for the heat cross over that goes under the carb. Will this get "burned" out after I run the engine for the cross over? The original gasket that I took out had the holes for the cross over. Could I just use the old gasket and trace this hole out and cut it out myself?

Another question is this. Do these intake gaskets go on dry? I always put a small bead of RTV around the water ports, and left the rest of the gasket dry. Edelbrock recommended that I use permatex high tack on the entire gasket on both sides, and use a small beat of RTV around the water ports on the intake side only.

What is the right procedure for an aluminum intake install? Seems everyone has a different theory!

Thanks again!

Keizer

One of the holes requires a restrictor or the manifold gets too hot under the carb because the exhaust can go too fast through the passage. This is not a desireable condition because it heats up your fuel and can cause vapor lock or boiling fuel. I would personally leave them as-is on the gaskets.

I am kind of paranoid about aluminum manifolds and gaskets sealing myself, so I always run some Permatex Copper RTV around all the water jackets and intake ports on both sides. I don't like leaks. Make sure you seal your bolts with teflon or RTV as well. That way you don't get the oil leak that is ever so common on small blocks. Use a torque wrench if you can.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 73454:
One of the holes requires a restrictor or the manifold gets too hot under the carb because the exhaust can go too fast through the passage. This is not a desireable condition because it heats up your fuel and can cause vapor lock or boiling fuel. I would personally leave them as-is on the gaskets.

</font>

The problem is, the Felpro # 1205's that Edelbrock recommends, do not even have holes for the heat cross over. Its solid gasket in that area. If I leave them as is, then what will happen? Won't those areas get burned out after running the engine? Then they will be totally open with no restrictors.

I don't have an pollution, or EGR on my car. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Keizer

I do this tons. It's pretty goof proof.
I apply 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on the back side of the intake gaskets (I always use Fel Pro) and stick them on. Poo poo with the heat cross over, it won't burn out and you don't need it. I make sure the adhesive is tacked up and I stick the gaskets in place and go have a pop. I come back and apply a 1/4 inch high (aprox.) bead of silicone (automotive grade not dime store grade) along the front and rear end rails on up into and overlapping the edge of the glued on gaskets. I let that sit for about 3 to 5 minutes and set the intake down as close as I can get it to where it lines up. I'll start the bolts in the holes but prior to inserting in the holes I coat the bottom threads with silicone to seal them up. Once I have the bolts in I will sight down the intake ports (not practical on a dual plane but easy on a Super Vic) to verify I have things lined up and visually verify that it's straight front to back and side to side. I torque from the inside bolts out. Two inside bolts on one side then two inside bolts on the other side. The work towards the front and back. How tight? I friggen tighten them almost as tight as I can get them with a wrench.
If you use the Fel Pro you'll have no problems with leaks due to the gasket. That seal around the intake is silicone.



[This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited July 09, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Rick WI:
I do this tons. It's pretty goof proof.
I apply 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on the back side of the intake gaskets (I always use Fel Pro) and stick them on. Poo poo with the heat cross over, it won't burn out and you don't need it. I make sure the adhesive is tacked up and I stick the gaskets in place and go have a pop. I come back and apply a 1/4 inch high (aprox.) bead of silicone (automotive grade not dime store grade) along the front and rear end rails on up into and overlapping the edge of the glued on gaskets. I let that sit for about 3 to 5 minutes and set the intake down as close as I can get it to where it lines up. I'll start the bolts in the holes but prior to inserting in the holes I coat the bottom threads with silicone to seal them up. Once I have the bolts in I will sight down the intake ports (not practical on a dual plane but easy on a Super Vic) to verify I have things lined up and visually verify that it's straight front to back and side to side. I torque from the inside bolts out. Two inside bolts on one side then two inside bolts on the other side. The work towards the front and back. How tight? I friggen tighten them almost as tight as I can get them with a wrench.
If you use the Fel Pro you'll have no problems with leaks due to the gasket. That seal around the intake is silicone.

[This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited July 09, 2005).]</font>

Just to clarify.....You only put 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on the back side of the intake gaskets, including the water ports? and then leave the entire intake side dry, including the water ports?

Also concerning the heat cross over. Are you saying that they should be totally blocked off, or totally open?

Keizer

Bead of adhesive on the head side of the gasket around all intake ports and water jacket ports. Let tack and stick in place.

Leave the heat cross over blocked off, in other words install gasket as it came out of the package.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Rick WI:
Bead of adhesive on the head side of the gasket around all intake ports and water jacket ports. Let tack and stick in place.

Leave the heat cross over blocked off, in other words install gasket as it came out of the package.</font>

just like rick mentioned that's exactly how i did mine and make sure you put a real thick bead of silicone on the end rails.also fill in the gap between the cyl head and block end rails and apply silicone from there to the lip of the intake gasket.if you follow these simple steps you should not have an oil leak or coolant leak

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1972 chevy camaro ss
425HP 350sbc old school build-up

restification in progress 70's baldwin motion NHRA gasser with old school day2 parts
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if it's to loud your to old

Thanks for all the info guys!

I will install the intake this weekend. Here is how I will do it, from what I have gathered from this thread.

1..Gasket adhesive on the head side of the gasket around all ports. Let it get tacky, and stick in place.

2..Apply 1/4" bead of "the good stuff" across both end rails, extending slightly up onto the head portion, and touching into the lip of the intake gasket.

3..Leave heat cross over blocked completely off. No provisions for heat restrictors with the Edelbrock recommended Felpro #1205 gasket anyway. Solid gasket in that area.

4....Leave intake side of gaskets dry

5...Lower intake manifold into place, and start intake bolts after applying sealer to the threads.

6....Torque bolts to 25 foot pounds following pattern in my Camaro repair manual.

7....Go have a beer

Sorry to dig this up again, but I am getting ready to do this. Keizer, what type of gasket sealer did you use. Also what type of thread sealer do you apply to the intake bolts.

I have a napa gaskets set, new in the package. Im wondering if I should get the Felpro. My intake is the 72 Z aluminum gm intake.

THanks,,

Russ

Napa (victor reniz) intake gaskets is all I have used for the past 7 years, and only intake gasket I will reccommed to people..

7 years ago I went through intake leak after intake leak with the fel pro blues. Had a buddy tell me the fel pros are too stiff to seal good with alum. intakes, so I tired the Napa gaskets... Sealed great 1st time. Never had another leak, so thats what I used for then on.

Sorry to dig this up again, but I am getting ready to do this. Keizer, what type of gasket sealer did you use. Also what type of thread sealer do you apply to the intake bolts.

I have a napa gaskets set, new in the package. Im wondering if I should get the Felpro. My intake is the 72 Z aluminum gm intake.

THanks,,

Russ

I used High tack on the head side of the gasket only. I let it tack up some, and set the gaskets in place. On the Felpro #1205 gasket set, the intake side has embossed sealing areas built into the gaskets already, so that side was left dry.

I can't remember what I used on the threads of the intake bolts. I used sealer on every one of them, even though some went into blind holes. I believe I may have used the "good stuff", which is what I used on the front and rear of the intake where it meets the block.

By the way, the installation method that I listed earlier in this thread worked perfect. There are absolutely no leaks on my RPM intake, using the recommended felpro 1205's. Edelbrock themselves recommended that gasket set. I had bought a regular felpro gasket set, but took it back after reading about how they did not seal well. They had what looked like a thin steel layer, and they were very stiff. The 1205's were very different, in that they were nice and flexable, and like mentioned before, had embossed sealing areas on the intake side of the gasket.

Also, I was very glad that while I had the engine out, I installed a new oil pan, and the one piece oil pan gasket. This is the first small block chevy engine that I have owned that does not leak oil!!

Keizer

Thanks Keizer, I got a few days off next week and was thinking about working on the 350 for my 81. Gotta put the oil pan on also. I did get the one piece felpro. Thanks again.;)

Keizer... The felpro 1205's are diff. from them common "rebuilders" blue intake gaskets?

Hmmm, I'll have to look into them then.. The reasons you said above is why my intakes leaked with fel pro gaskets.. "had what looked like a thin steel layer, and they were very stiff".

The Napa's on the other hand sounds more like what you said about the 1205's

isnt 25ft lbs alittle much for an aluminum intake??

i've never used more than 18ftlbs in fear of breaking the intake

never had any leaks or troubles...

i've used the "mr.gasket" gaskets that are on the shelf at autozone.. never any problems

Keizer... The felpro 1205's are diff. from them common "rebuilders" blue intake gaskets?



Yes they were different. They even came in a different type of package. Cardboard backing, with shrink wrap type plastic over them, so you could see them from the package. Plus they were alot more flexable.

isnt 25ft lbs alittle much for an aluminum intake??

i've never used more than 18ftlbs in fear of breaking the intake

never had any leaks or troubles...

i've used the "mr.gasket" gaskets that are on the shelf at autozone.. never any problems


Again, 25 ft lbs was the recommendation from Edelbrock for my RPM intake when I called them. Some of the bolts you can't get to with a torque wrench, so they must be done by feel. I simply put a wrench on one of the intake bolts I had used a torque wrench on, and got a feel for how tight it needed to be.

Keizer

Gotta put the oil pan on also. I did get the one piece felpro. Thanks again.;)

You will love that one piece oil pan gasket. I would love to find the person that came up with that idea and kiss them full on the mouth. Of course a hardy hand shake if it was a guy that thought it up.