Well, I've been gone from this site for a while now, and my 1975 camaro has been just sitting there since then.... everything works on the car, except its lacks power... Since that lack of power I don't drive it that much anymore. Looks like the daily driver LT1 is keeping me from doing it. I've been a memeber here for a while, almost left when my post count was lost and at the same time I had bought my LT1 trans am. Now I spend availabe computer time at a 4th gen site...... But I think I am seeing the light again.... I want to build power for my 1975 camaro..... I need advice on what to do to it. Here's whats currently in the car.

1981 305 engine
Stock heads
8.5mm MSD wires
MSD Ignition coil
MSD 6A Ignition box
Aluminum headers
600 cfm Holley carb vac. sec.
Dual exhaust/ no cats

Now, I have a 350 block out of a 1992 truck that I will bore .030 over, some fuelie heads just to get it running while I save funds to upgrade. I intended to turn that into a 383 build at first, I am taking too much time and I would like just to see it running and making good power as a 350 engine, I am in need of some advice on what parts to complement this engine as a budget build for now, I don't want to go out there and break records, I just want a street car that I can take to the track and have that great experience and some respectable times. This will be like my weekend car. I'll be checking back, thanks in advance for all the help.

Not even one reply........ I guess I just don't fit in here............ thanks anyway guys.....

Sometimes you have to wait a couple of days to get replies.. I myself reply to all the engine build questions on here and I just just now seen yours.

For some gen ideas I would say....
Machine work..
Hot tank and mangaflux the block and heads your using
bore and hone
press old pistons off/new ones on
install frost plugs and cam bearings
install new arp rod bolts and resize big ends of rods.
Polish/turn crank if needed

For parts ...
Speed pro flat top hyper pistons
Moly rings
ARP rod bolts
Get compression to 9.5 to 10.0:1
4.100" x .015" head gaskets if the block is still std. deck height.
Eddy RPM intake or the knock off pro products intake that matches the edelbrock RPM

With your block being a 1992 it will be a roller block so look for a cam that fits OEM roller blocks.. As far as cam size something in the 218 to 224 degrees on the intake side and 228 to 234 degrees on the exhaust side. As much lift as you can get, and a 110 to 112 LSA

You'll need upgraded valve springs on the heads. The size will be 1.25" OD best place to get the ones you need is from http://www.competitionproducts.com/

The amount of total valve lift will tell you what springs you need, but one of these 2 PN's norm fit the bill # 98212 for up to .570" lift ( I run those springs on my .484"/.512" lift cam)
Or #98214 for up to .510" lift

Also if you have more than .450" lift I would really recommend having the heads drilled and taped for screw in rocker studs. Higher lift and higher RPMs can and will pull the pressed in studs out

Depending on cond. of heads you might want to think about one of thier upgrade/rebuild packages. Comes with the springs you need, stainless valves, locks, retainers, seals, etc for $130-145 the kits can be found here http://www.competitionproducts.com/products.asp?dept=27

The the parts you listed that you have
"8.5mm MSD wires
MSD Ignition coil
MSD 6A Ignition box
Aluminum headers
600 cfm Holley carb vac. sec.
Dual exhaust/ no cats"

Will all work over on the new engine your building

Thanks night rider for your reply, it really helps. This block is not a roller block, but I will use a direct fit o retro fit kit to make it a roller set up, I am talking about the ones that have the little guide plates that connect one lifter to the other in pairs to keep them in place and from turning around. Will those durations and lift apply to it? By the way, the heads will get screw in rocker studs.

By the way, I see the kits to rebuild the heads on that link, what screw in rocker studs will I need for the fuelie heads?

Camaro75... The screw in studs are just common 7/16" threads on bottom and 3/8" threads on top.

There's two styles though. You have the type for non guide plates then you have the type with a shoulder on em' for if you want to run guide plates.

Now on your block you said it was from a 92 truck? I thought for sure GM went to all roller v-8's by the late 80's.

OEM rollers won't have the link bar hooking a pair of lifters together like the retro fit kits does. The oe style rollers are just a lifter with a wheel or roller on the bottom side of it, then an intake valley "spider" to hole the ligters in place

If yours aint a roller then i wouldn't think it's a 1992 but thats not a bad thing, cause for non roller, hyd cam 350's you can buy the full rebuild kit from northern auto parts with all the high performance options, cam, etc for around $300-350

The stock heads on a truck are poor for high performance use. I would look at world products sr torquers or something along that line, vortecs will work but need a new intake. The 1992 is a roller block but didn't come with the rollers installed but all the provisions are there. I would get the spider, retainers, cam plate, push rods, and lifters from another used roller block. You could get new lifters but I never have and have yet to have a problem. Just takem apart and clean them out.

I followed the link in the post and I was looking at the 383 stroker kit for the late one piece rear main engines. Will a kit such as that one need the harmonic balancer and flexplate for a sbc 400 engine also? What has to be done to the bock to allow the larger stroke? or will the crank work without any modifications? For the block that I have, I will use a retrofit kit. Thanks for the replies.

Now on your block you said it was from a 92 truck? I thought for sure GM went to all roller v-8's by the late 80's.

GM Trucks swapped to roller cams in 96, also went to a Vortec head (V8s anyways, not sure about the V6 stuff). In 00 they went to LS series engines.

Camaro75... The screw in studs are just common 7/16" threads on bottom and 3/8" threads on top.

There's two styles though. You have the type for non guide plates then you have the type with a shoulder on em' for if you want to run guide plates.

Now on your block you said it was from a 92 truck? I thought for sure GM went to all roller v-8's by the late 80's.

OEM rollers won't have the link bar hooking a pair of lifters together like the retro fit kits does. The oe style rollers are just a lifter with a wheel or roller on the bottom side of it, then an intake valley "spider" to hole the ligters in place

If yours aint a roller then i wouldn't think it's a 1992 but thats not a bad thing, cause for non roller, hyd cam 350's you can buy the full rebuild kit from northern auto parts with all the high performance options, cam, etc for around $300-350

trucks didnt come with roller cams... i know this because iv got the same block sitting in my garage. those blocks have thin cylinder walls so they should be bored to a max of .030 over. the great thing about these blocks is the little core shift these blocks had. my block is also from a 92 truck

I followed the link in the post and I was looking at the 383 stroker kit for the late one piece rear main engines. Will a kit such as that one need the harmonic balancer and flexplate for a sbc 400 engine also? What has to be done to the bock to allow the larger stroke? or will the crank work without any modifications? For the block that I have, I will use a retrofit kit. Thanks for the replies.

sorry but with these blocks shouldnt be turned into 383's. iv got the same block as you and iv been told by machinests that you cant grind alot of material off because there is a good chance of hitting water. personally i wouldnt risk wrecking the block, but thats me. what kind of power are you looking for? if you look into an edelbrock catalog you will se that the "performer plus ETEC" makes somthing like 360hp. it uses a roller cam so it makes very reliable power. you can get a complete top end kit that makes it so you dont have to worry about combining parts. if you want more serious power then you should look at the "performer rpm ETEC" top end kit, but you will need a 2500 stall because it would be dead off the line. the "performer rpm ETEC" uses a roller cam and makes 430hp. any way you go you will need flat top pistons. the pistons in your 350 are junk so dont bother using them. if you have your stock conecting rods and crank USE THEM!! your stock crank and stock rods will handle up to around 430hp. i wouldnt go to much higher with you stock parts though. if you dont belive me that the stocks rods and crank will handle that much power well..... i know this because a few years ago my dad built a "performer rpm" top end kit on his 350. he had around 420 hp and that motor lasted a long time. in your application i would recomend the performer rpm ETEC top end kit part number "350-2099 " i think. as i said 430hp is pushing the limit on that crank so dont even think of going with more power. this kit on jegs costs somthing like $1700. the kit includes: roller cam, heads, intake manifold and all the gaskets needed. i am buiding the same thing on my 4 bolt block right now. if you dont have your crank or rods then i would recomend "eagle street strip rotating assembley" it costs under 1000 dollars and will take up to 500 hp. anyway i hope what i wrote made sence. goodluck with whatever you do...... my teacher is yellin at me so iv gotta start to do some work:crazy:

sorry but with these blocks shouldnt be turned into 383's. iv got the same block as you and iv been told by machinests that you cant grind alot of material off because there is a good chance of hitting water. personally i wouldnt risk wrecking the block, but thats me. what kind of power are you looking for? if you look into an edelbrock catalog you will se that the "performer plus ETEC" makes somthing like 360hp. it uses a roller cam so it makes very reliable power. you can get a complete top end kit that makes it so you dont have to worry about combining parts. if you want more serious power then you should look at the "performer rpm ETEC" top end kit, but you will need a 2500 stall because it would be dead off the line. the "performer rpm ETEC" uses a roller cam and makes 430hp. any way you go you will need flat top pistons. the pistons in your 350 are junk so dont bother using them. if you have your stock conecting rods and crank USE THEM!! your stock crank and stock rods will handle up to around 430hp. i wouldnt go to much higher with you stock parts though. if you dont belive me that the stocks rods and crank will handle that much power well..... i know this because a few years ago my dad built a "performer rpm" top end kit on his 350. he had around 420 hp and that motor lasted a long time. in your application i would recomend the performer rpm ETEC top end kit part number "350-2099 " i think. as i said 430hp is pushing the limit on that crank so dont even think of going with more power. this kit on jegs costs somthing like $1700. the kit includes: roller cam, heads, intake manifold and all the gaskets needed. i am buiding the same thing on my 4 bolt block right now. if you dont have your crank or rods then i would recomend "eagle street strip rotating assembley" it costs under 1000 dollars and will take up to 500 hp. anyway i hope what i wrote made sence. goodluck with whatever you do...... my teacher is yellin at me so iv gotta start to do some work:crazy:

Hey! Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply! I will consider your advice! About these blocks............... I've seen them get bored up to .060!!!!

Ttttttttt

Just put a big block in it and be done with it!!;)