Hi all..Names Rick, I have a 90 GTA that has a blown TPi motor..Have wanted to go carb for a while..So nows the time.I have a friend that has a couple of motors he wants to let go.2 400 blocks and one built 355

1st off is a bone stock but absolutley complete 400 block series "817"..her wants $250.00 for it

2nd is a 400/408 short block.. "509" series which is bord .40 over with a forged crank/pistons..but used stock 6.0 rods so..you know the deal with that.wants $450.00 for it

last is a 350/355 (bord 30 over)and is a "010" series 350.this engine has forged pistons and new machine work and recentley pulled for a bigger engine, but ran 10.06 in his dragster ..this engine is also just a short block..wants $400.00 for it.

this site has been really helpful for some of my friends so hopefully it will be the same for me.

*This car is a w/e cruiser, mostley street but will drag once in a while.using built stock 700r4 tranny with 3000 yank stall and 3:73 gears http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

Id definatly get the 400 for $450 if the parts are fresh, but if the money is there id scoop up all three!

Definitely 400. Always go for cubes!

The '509' casting is a stronger casting, but many here have had good luck with the '817'. It just doesn't have the reputation of being as strong as the 509. Make ANY sale dependant on having the block checked for cracks (especially the 817 and have the main webs looked at real close).
But something is amiss in the '509' package. There are no 'stock 6" rods' All rods are forged (err umm except the argument on if the PM rods are a true forging) So if it has 6" forged aftermarket rods,, a forged crank, and pistons,, if the casting checks out, that's the one I'd jump on.

I would get all three but i dont really have the extra ca$h right now...I have enough for one but no more than that.

K..Well i was leaning towards the 400 blocks but i have heard that the 509's are much more stronger than the 817 blocks.
The thing i like most about the 817 is that it isnt missing anyhting at all..It has all brackets,hoses,lines,mount,pulleys,heads,
intake..Not that half of that stuff will be used, But its just nice not to have to fish around if i needed somthing off of the block and i probably would have alot of the oem brackets misc things cerma-chrome plated for show only.But anyways ince the 817 block is a total engine i wouldt be able to have it checked out untill i tear it apart..he also has a somthing 511 block ..Are those weaker or stronger than the 817 blocks?

I just ment he used the oem 6" rods with 509..and yes all machine-rod work is brand new...Isnt going .40 over kinda pushing it though..even for the 509?

OE rods for a 400 are 5.565" (?), 350 rods are 5.7".
I think the closest the factory gets to 6" that will go into these motors is in the 4.3L V6 with a 5.9-something rod.

I'd get some more info on the rods that are actually in there. They're all plenty strong enough for a street car though.

Opps..My fault.
I was under the impression that OE was 6.0 rods.But 5.7 rods are the best for the 400 Blocks..Correct?

I have a .040 over 817 block, everything is cool with it. Just look for core shift in the 817, if everything is close to center then you have a good block. I think the only advantage of a 509 block over an 817 is less of a chance of core shift with the 509, but I could be wrong there. I've heard of several people taking a 400 to .060 over without problems.

And on the rods, anything is better than the shorter 5.565" 400 rod, 5.7 is the most common upgrade.

Anyway, the prices on either of the 400's are good deals, I'd try to get both if the blocks were good. I've sold bare 400 blocks for $400+ before.

Yea..I might try to get both 400 blocks, What kind of HP numbers and set-up do you have?

What exactley is core shift?