What is your favorite oil and oil filter that you like to use on your motor. Also what weight.

Penzoil 10-30W, AC Delco filter

Valvoline 10W30 & AcDelco or Puralator filter.

If you're on a budget, then WalMart Supertech, STP or Advance Auto are good choices.

What's ever cheap, but try to stick with better known brands; castrol, quaker state, been using fram filters since I've been changing oil. I can't see spending the money for synthetic oil, unless it was a type of engine or gear box that needed it.

Penzoil 20w50, helps slow the oil leaks down. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif I use whatever oil filter I have on hand, sometimes I grab a Champ or Warner from work or Wix from the local autoparts store. I avoid Fram like the plaque since they always have leaked on every SBC Ive ever owned.

The BEST oil stays in the pan, not on the track LOL

Valvoline and AC Delco, 190,000 miles and STILL uses less than 1 quart in 3,000 miles

I'm with Chevynut67, Valvoline and AC or Puralator.

------------------
80' Berlinetta

"Careful what you wish you may regret it, careful what you wish you just might get it"
METALLICA

Amsoil is by far the best oil out there if you look at the SAE testing.
Best consistancy in viscosity, highest thermal breakdown and flash temps.
Honestly any more no natural blend (dead dinosaur juice) oil can even remotely competete with the Synthetics

is it good to run 20w50

Hey Lowend:

Are you sure you're not an Amsoil Dealer? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

Just kidding, I don't believe that there's such a thing as the BEST oil, some do better than others but from what I've learned, synthetics will always be better than dino.

weinle77: check out bobistheoilguy.com for more info on this topic than you can shake an oil flter at, LOL!

[This message has been edited by Chevynut67 (edited June 24, 2005).]

I'm with Chevynut and dude1.
Valvoline 10w30 and an AC Delco filter. You really can't go wrong with them.

Most of these oils listed have had the zinc and phosephate lowered to meet the govenment reconmendations and are not recommended for performance use as they once were, Any oil that does not say racing on it beleive me the antiware package in the oil is not what it should be.

The old 20/50 oils use to say racing on them try to find one now. The old green Kendell oil is still being made and is marketed as the Brad Penn oil and is still made at the old Kendall refinery check out there website www.amref.com (http://www.amref.com) as this is the only oil company that the oil is made in the U.S.
As far as synthitics we have found Amsoil to be the best as they are the Pioneeres of synthetic oils.

What about Royal Purple?

I haven't used anything but Chevron Delo 15w-40 since I rebuilt my engine. I has high phos/zinc (ZDDP) content and should work well with a flat tappet cam. I am not sure a I see a clear advantage to synthetics unless you are tracking your car and see high oil temperaures. Delo is available in 10w30 if you drive your Camaro in the winter.

I like the Walmart Supertech, but lately I've been using Mobil Drive Clean. Good oil and it's only about a buck a quart. I used to run Pennzoil and Valvoline stuff but it's nearly double the price!

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1978LT:
lately I've been using Mobil Drive Clean. Good oil and it's only about a buck a quart.</font>

Sounds interesting...may have to check out this product for the Camaro. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

[EDIT]: Found this--

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/images/astm_d4742_400px.gif


------------------
Lanette, Gilbert AZ ["Dakota Dawn" is my CB handle]
The Surgeon General states: "IT IS OK TO SMOKE YOUR COMPETITION!!!!"

|||||| 1970 SS Video (http://members.cox.net/cvista/images/70CamaroSS_short.wmv) ||||||
Pic's to my 1970 Camaro SS (http://community.webshots.com/user/dakdawn)!
My Mechanic -- DGI Performance in Mesa AZ -- Great Performance & Auto Shop! 480-830-0081

[This message has been edited by dakdawn (edited June 24, 2005).]

Castrol Syntec, & Fram filters in the Z28. Syntec 10w40, & purolator, or Fram in the truck. Castrol GTX 5w30, & Fram, or Purolator in the Cavalier.

I used to be an Amsoil dealer (at Speed Merchant) but also sold Kendall, Redline and Royal Purple. Its how I got to know so much about it.
My best advise, if you MUST run natural base oil, run Diesel rated oil. It has a special additive package and does not take on air bubbles as much are "gas" motor oil

------------------
1971 Camaro
383 stroker ~500HP
M21 4spd
12" brakes
16x10" Wheels
Autocross competitive
Engine Designer - The Speed Merchant, San Jose, CA
http://www.speedmerchant.com/

Where can you bu y the Brad Penn oil?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by JJZ28:
Castrol Syntec, & Fram filters in the Z28. Syntec 10w40, & purolator, or Fram in the truck. Castrol GTX 5w30, & Fram, or Purolator in the Cavalier.</font>

On the performance engines we build we use the 1061 NAPA or the Wix 51061 as we plug the oil filter bypass off to force everthing trough the filter and everytime a customer calls and say there oil pressure is low we always no what the problem is, Ya get rid of the Fram filter and go back to what we installed origanally and this always cures the problem. A fram filter does not have the capabilties to flow that much oil through it with the bypass pluged so that tells you that ruuning with the bypass not pluges that the bypass is open most of the time and NOT FILTERING oil.

Just cut a Fram and a Wix or Napa filter apart and comepare the 2 the Fram don't have the filter paper yhe the Wix or NAPA do.

I have seen a few new OA's on the Brad Penn and was not impressed at all with the additive package. They sent us a few cases to try on the dyno and we basically used it for break in oil. Worked OK just didn't seem to be up there with the true racing oils we typically use, which is the Shaeffer's line.

For filters I prefer the Delco PF35L filter

[This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited June 25, 2005).]

dakdawn-notice it's the highest rated oil behind all those synthetics ahead of it? Only Valvoline was the only dino oil ahead of it, I'll take that since I change oil VERY often!

And Thin Film Oxygen Uptake means???????

It is a measure of who many air bubbles the oil takes on when it cavitates.
When you have oil spread on a "floating" bearing like a Crankshaft Main air bubbles are your greatest enemy.
Think about what happens:
The airbubble comes into the bearing and in put under the weight load of the crank. The air compresses and the oil film collapses, which can allow the crank to come down and touch the bearing. Not a big deal in the millisecond it happens, but now do it a couple billion times... you get the idea

------------------
1971 Camaro
383 stroker ~500HP
M21 4spd
12" brakes
16x10" Wheels
Autocross competitive
Engine Designer - The Speed Merchant, San Jose, CA
http://www.speedmerchant.com/

i'm with cnc blocks,, the old green kendell seemed to turn black even after a few passes but held up seeing the results on the bearings after a season of running. and the wix filters that car quest and napa sell in their own re-box'd packaging have the better anti-drainback valves also. cut them apart. the fram is now the worst made filter since walmart forced fram to cut production costs in order to keep their contract. walmart is fram's major contract now,,,so if they lost walmart then they would close up shop. in the 80's,, consumer reports rated fram as the #1 filter. and now wix is basically the same design again that the fram was then. any turbo diesel approved oil still has more zinc also,, like dello400. a much better choice than any regular dino oil. my 2 cents.

[This message has been edited by 74RAT (edited June 25, 2005).]

So what is the min rating at which 4742 is unacceptable and will cause problems?

Thanks for the info so far Lowend.

[This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited June 25, 2005).]

Its more complicated than that.
Take RPM, heat, lifespan, how much the oil is slung around an engine, if there are oilsprayers...
Ultimately all oils must meet certain SAE standards to be considered "car friendly" (the little ratings in the upper right corner of the label).
I really can't say what would be the minimum number. But needless to say no one would put fire-arm luberacant into an engine

------------------
1971 Camaro
383 stroker ~500HP
M21 4spd
12" brakes
16x10" Wheels
Autocross competitive
Engine Designer - The Speed Merchant, San Jose, CA
http://www.speedmerchant.com/

Isn't the "best" oil really an oil with zinc and moly in it? I know catalytic converters killed the options of having a real good oil, but if you change it often you can get real good life out of an engine.

Oh, also, bobistheoilguy ALWAYS recommends diesel oils if you're running dinosaur oil. It has LOTS of pressure additives.

From what I can find on this test it measures the ability of an oil to combat sludge and deposits. It appears 300 (based on the following thread) is well within reason for a quality synthetic. Other information I read through also mentioned although it's an important test, it's only one.

The other interesting thing is when searching for this test most all links were tied to Amsoil propaganda. Man, they spend the bucks on advertising. I am sure it's good oil, their sales people simply remind me of the pots and pans door to door salesmen of days gone by. I suspect most wear plaid as well. I'd much rather see an independent run the tests and give me the data versus a manufacturer generate it.

A cut and paste from http://www.noria.com/message_boards/message_details_b y_list.asp?foldername=Lubrication+Engineers%2C+Inc.&messagenumber=1+ (http://www.noria.com/message_boards/message_details_by_list.asp?foldername=Lubrication+Engineers%2C+Inc.&messagenumber=1+)

Kevin appears to be a sales rep for Lubrication Engineers, primarily an industrial oils manufacturer. The cut and paste was taken near the end of the post.

RE: Lubrication Engineers, Inc.
Kevin
4/24/2001 12:39:04 PM

To Mr. ???
To answer your question of what is TFOUT? here goes.

TFOUT is an ASTM test D-4742. TFOUT stands for Thin Film Oxygen Uptake Test and it tests the oxidative stability of oils. The TFOUT utilizes the standard Rotary Bomb Oxidation test equipment. An aluminum insert is placed in the bomb to reduce its volume. A small beaker is placed on top of the insert which contains 1.5 grams of the test oil. This small sample results in a very thin film of the oil. Added to the sample is 5 weight percent of soluble metal catalysts, 5 weight percent oxidized fuel components and 2 percent water. The soluble metals, oxidized fuel and water simulate the contaminants that an oil is exposed to in an engine from wear debris, blow-by and condensation. The oxygen bomb is then reassembled, purged with oxygen and pressurized to 90 psi. The bomb is placed in an oil bath where it rotates to povide agitation. The end of the test is the time, minutes, from placing the bomb in the bath to the point where the bomb chart recorder shows a continuous drop in pressure. The period is referred to as the induction time for the onset of oxidative degradation. The longer the induction time, the better the oxidation resistance of the oil.

BTY Randy W, We believe that that test is the best for testing an engine oil for oxidation resistance.

RE: Lubrication Engineers, Inc.
???
4/24/2001 3:06:36 PM

Without mentioning brand names, what are typical induction times for standard motor oils?

IE, a typical API SJ oil would go how many induction minutes?

How about a high end product, it would go how many induction minutes?

Thanks in advance.

RE: Lubrication Engineers, Inc.
Kevin
4/24/2001 3:35:42 PM

125 to 180 or 200 would be regular induction times. 300 is much better and there are a few that will go above 450. Some synthetics will never have an induction time so the time to 25.4 psi drop is reported as the end of the test. These synthetics will see 700 to 900 min. Although those synthetics will have higher wear than some of the oils in the 400 to 500 range. Additive package I think.

Kevin


[This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited June 25, 2005).]

For the thicker oil, it's usually best to give the engine a moment or two to warm up before driving. The down side to using a thicker oil http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/frown.gif I use 15w40 though, it's a good blend between 20w50 and 10w30.

I usually try to build my engines tight, and use 5W-30 along with a stock pressure pump. I've never cared for thicker oil except for when I first got my car and it had a 150,000 mile 305 and even with 20W-50 it only maxed out at 25-30 psi oil pressure http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

Oil is like everything else when there's competition. If you asked a room full of 10 people "Who makes the best oil?" then you can almost bet you're gonna get 10 different answers. I can tell you 1st hand since I've been in the fast lube business for 12 years and counting that brand name really doesn't mean a thing. Synthetic oil hands down is superior to conventional oil, no matter WHO sells it.

Advantages of sythetics vs conventional:

Oil has a lot of purposes other than just lubrication. It is also used as a enternal coolant, and transportation of empurities that cause damage and oil break down. Simply put, the difference between synthetic and conventional oil is that synthetic base stocks are engineered to contain improved compounds for motor oil use. The functions of both oils are essentially the same - they both provide lubrication to an engine's key moving parts. But that is where the similarities end. Synthetics offer the highest level of temperature protection and flow better in low temperature environments the conventional oils. Synthetic oil offers reduced volatility (evaporation) at high temperatures. When extreme temperature conditions (hot or cold) inside an engine occur, conventional oil CAN quickly break down and oxidize, as sludge and varnish begin to build up.
Synthetics begin to lubricate at lower temps. In cold climates, oil thickens and slows oil flow, making engine cranking more difficult. Some conventional oils begin to "thicken" at 25*F while synthetics continue to function at -30*F and sometimes even colder. This means superior flow, pumping and cranking ability at extremely low temps. While conventional oils contain anti-wear additives, they typically do not become fully effective until an engine is fully warmed up. Synthetics also provide more deposite control and protection of engine parts. Due to their formulation, they form significantly less engine deposits, meaning synthetics help engines stay cleaner and perform better, longer. Synthetics have superior oxidative and thermal stabilty over conventional oil, leaving engines virtually varnish, deposit, and sludge free. Synthetics are also "slicker". Therefore, they deliver increased lubrication meaning less wear, cooler engine temps, and better overall performance.

If it fits your budget, synthetic is the way to go. Never mind the brand name. ANY brand synthetic will out perform ANY conventional oil. But if it's NOT in your budget, diesel grade oils have proven better anti-wear protection.

The ONLY drawback I can see of synthetic oils is that if your car leaks oil, it WILL leak faster than conventional oil because if flows so much better.


------------------
Objects In Mirror Are LOSING

[This message has been edited by GoldenOne7710 (edited June 26, 2005).]

Im really surprised. Thought I would see more synthetics on this post. Hmmm???

MOBIL 1

You just cant polish a terd...its still the Sh*t... :confused

Here is a good site you guys might want to look at .......

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

Good web page.

I ran the old kendall and a 1061 wix.
I now run diesal grade oil and same filter.


Anyone know who has the "OLD" Kendall oil.????

------------------
Ray in Bama
78z,355 roller on the sauce!!

[This message has been edited by BIGBADBOWTIE (edited June 27, 2005).]

I break in my motors on Shell Rotella 15W40 and run them on Mobil 1 after 500 miles.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1978LT:
dakdawn-notice it's the highest rated oil behind all those synthetics ahead of it? Only Valvoline was the only dino oil ahead of it, I'll take that since I change oil VERY often!</font>

Check again...Pennzoil with PureBase is ahead of all the dinos

I've worked for power train OE's and today for a major engine OE and they both very much prefer synthetics. In fact many of the heavy power train manufacturers tell you the warranty is void without them ( Eaton HD truck diffs come to mind ).

I will do my engine break in with standard oil and then go to synthetics from that point on. Seems to be lots of good brands to choose from. Cummins publishes oil specs that oil manufacturers must conform too to claim the oils are acceptable for warrnty. Thats a little tougher to establish in the sport rodding community ;-)

After 20 years as a Valvoline man I took GM's lead and switched to Mobile 1. The real difference was not noticed until the next time I adjusted the valves. The parts were so slick that I could not hang on the tools; I use my left over Valvoline in my lawn mower now.

I just bought 10 gallon sized jugs of Shell Rotella oil to run in my 302 and 390 powered fords. They were on sale for basically $1/qt. Is this a decent oil to use? This isnt a hipo application, just a couple stockish motors.

Hey Bondo79:

You can get your question answered here:

http://bobistheoilguy.com/

This is THE site for oil nuts, & I mean oil nuts http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Bondo79:
I just bought 10 gallon sized jugs of Shell Rotella oil to run in my 302 and 390 powered fords. They were on sale for basically $1/qt. Is this a decent oil to use? This isnt a hipo application, just a couple stockish motors. </font>

That is a very good oil.

I'll throw another stat out to prove my point. I agree Amsoil is the best but I prefer Mobil 1 only because it's easier to find. However, nearly every dino oil has a film strength of about 400 psi. Mobil 1 has a film strength of 3000 psi. Film strength is the ability of an oil to resist the force of being squeezed out from between two surfaces as pressure is applied, i.e. bearing journals. This imo is the sole reason why NOBODY should be running dino oil at all. -Jabin

------------------
Gmachinz Sales and Performance
"...updating the level of performance..."

I think Amsoil is the best at advertising. For that reason I put them right up there with Slick 50.

Course all the oil companies go over the edge on their message, especially Castrol at times, but Amsoil is like the door to door salesman of the oil industry.

I've used Walmart Tech2000 oil and filters for years AND years!! The stuff is made by Q/S and Penzoil if not mistaken.

If I was anal, I would run full synthetic with a bottle of EOS in it. (NO CAT('s) tho...)...

Otherwise, I would hunt up "URSA" diesel rated oil if I can still buy it. ROTELLA falls in here too IF it is STILL dark teal colored..

It's the zinc Stearates, (metallic soaps if you will), that provide the extreme pressure rating. They are in EOS and you can smell them too in it as well as the older dark teal colored gear-lubes..

AND something else, it is a known fact that a half-cup of 100 percent Bio-Diesel added to your oil will make your motor run about 3 percent more eff. b/c the stuff contains esters that are known for their lubricity properties!!

They are adding a very small amount of it to Gasohol for it's lubricity properties if not mistaken b/c Ethanol tends to be a "non-lubing" liquid..

I honestly think good old, "snake-oil" named Marvel Mystery Oil contains esters too AND imho, it is good stuff and for me it does what it say's it's sold to do!!

pdq67

PS., if you commute on the highway daily like 30, 60 or farther miles a day, you are a good candidate to change your oil and filter say up past 10,000 miles!!

I say this b/c your motor is ran long enough so that it gets hot enough to rid itself of moisture that combines with the oil that can produce sludge...

I'm changing my corn-popper's oil and filter at 7,500 to 8,000 miles now,(60 mile daily commute), and have went as high as 12,000 miles checking my oil level! BUT this was almost 100 percent highway miles at 180 miles daily commute!! (Sure glad the corn-popper was getting 50mpg!!)....

Other-wise, DUSTY conditions AND SHORT trips, change per the Manufacturer's spec's!!

[This message has been edited by pdq67 (edited July 01, 2005).]

I have had and seen several cars go to 200k+ miles with regular oil changes using cheap store brand oils and fram or store brand filters. As long as the oil has the current api rating, sl?, who cares if its cheap store brand?

Of course synthetics are better, but they cost 3-4x as much, and pretty much guarantee a leak.


------------------
My 73 (http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL314/466168/1171704/51225071.jpg)
My 71 (http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL314/466168/1171704/55082053.jpg)
My 71 (http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL914/466168/1171704/101445569.jpg)
parts for sale (http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid3200370)
cars&trucks for sale (http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid1265057)
parts for sale (http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid581024)
parts for sale (http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid7285884)