Yeah, this has been on going for quite a while.

So I finally said enough was enough and spent $45 on a new choke assembly for my Holley 600. Put it on, tested it out - worked great. Awesome! Went to bed, got up 6 hours later to go to work and the choke REFUSED to function correctly. Warmed up car for about 10 minutes and as soon as I put it in reverse and blipped the gas to back up, the stupid choke blade closed and wouldn't come back up. I ended up taking the linkage apart again, as it's the only way I could get the choke blade open.

What gives guys? I know I have everything assembled correctly. I read something......somewhere that said a thing about a doo-hickey. If I could remember what it said, I wouldn't have to bother you guys.

Any idears????? I'm about to say screw it, and buy a new carb (Yes, I'm that PO'd)

What model Holley?

Whoops, forgot I made this thread.

The number on the choke horn is 80457-3, it's a 600 elec choke, vac 2nd's.

I ordered the kit that I was told I needed (a guy at Holley and Summit both confirmed it was the right one).

either take the choke assy completely off and run it that way or use the holley mech choke set-up

either take the choke assy completely off and run it that way or use the holley mech choke set-up
why?

I have had similar issues with my electric choke kit. Mine is a 750 vac sec. I actually had a local carb guru put it on. Worked great, then slowly worked less and less. I had him adjust it again, and it worked great for about a week.

At this time, I think it works correctly about once a year.

holley electric chokes are good when set correctly. the problem is that you continually have to adjust the electric chokes. i did away with mine as well and went with the manual choke. although i need to figure that one out as well becuase it doesnt like to run with the choke closed or even partially closed. i only close it to start it. as soon as it starts i take it off.

i gotta figure this one out.

Wow, that's surprising. The very similar design choke on a QJet is like the Little Giant Rotisserie Oven- "Set it and forget it!" You pop in a new choke element every decade or two, but that's about it.

You sure you've got good, solid voltage going to it? Bimetal springs and electric resistance choke heat elements (that comprise the basic guts of an electric choke) are not what you would call "unreliable" technology. They've been around for decades. They should do the same thing, every time, over and over without the need for any readjustment.

You sure you've got good, solid voltage going to it? Bimetal springs and electric resistance choke heat elements (that comprise the basic guts of an electric choke) are not what you would call "unreliable" technology. They've been around for decades. They should do the same thing, every time, over and over without the need for any readjustment.
yep, I got a full 14 volts running straight from my IGN in the fuse block.
My issue is, that the fast idle cam doesn't drop down when I open the throttle all the way.

While I don't remember exactly what the voltage was, I know it was over 12v with the key on and the engine off.

I have power at the choke coil, so that's not where my problem is. When I put the new choke assembly on it worked fine that night. The next morning (about 7 hours later) I went out to start the car, and the choke would not "kick on." After the engine warmed to operating temp and I was ready to go, I dropped it in gear and for some reason, the choke decided it would then work. Only problem was, it would not shut off. I had to manually push on the choke lever to shut it off.

I'm having more problems with the carb, ie - the pedal is initially hard to push. It sort of "pops." The problem is not in my throttle cable. I asked what it might be before on the forum, but I don't remember what the guys were telling me.


I'm planning on getting a new carb soon, and since it's now warm I'm not really concerned with the choke assembly on this carb anymore but I greatly appreciate the responses!!! If it was a simple fix, I'd do it. Seeing as how I put an entire new choke assembly on it and it still fails to work properly, I say screw it. Btw, the choke levers all moved freely and there was no binding or sticking of any nature of the levers but when I put on the new assembly it wanted to stick on. I'm stumped......

I believe when you turn the housing, it is very sensitive. in fact, i think there are some pins in the housing that prevent it from turning too far (its been a while so i cant remember). and i thought these get removed to give a little more adjustability. however, if you go to far, the choke stays on forever and i believe you have to disassemble and re-assemble.

Hey guys, just to let you know - I solved the problems I had with my holley by purchasing a 600cfm Quadrajet. I got it from my wife's uncle, it came off of a '79 chevy 350, has been completely rebuilt, and he even put a new choke assembly on it.

Oh, I picked it up for 100 bucks.:)