Folks - need your advice.

I was changing the spark plugs in my Chev. S10 (4.3 v6) which I just inherited from my father-in-law, and the first one I tried snapped off. The whole ceramic portion came right out, it's just the metal threaded part that is left. The metal snapped off right below the part that the wrench fits on, so I can't use the spark plug wrench on it. However, there appears to be enough metal left to grab with needle nosed pliers, so I'm thinking of trying to ease it out, but I'm not going to try much for fear of really @#$%ing things up.

I'm thinking these plugs have never been changed, so I have started soaking all the plugs (including the broken one) with Liquid Wrench.

The most recent similar thread I found about a guy who snapped a plug off in an aluminum head on a Vette, and the ceramic piece didn't come out.

Should I even try to get this out? Any other suggestions on how to get it out (I don't have an easy-out)? I'm figuring I'll be visiting my favorite mechanic on Monday.

If it has to go to the shop, can I drive it as is, or do I definitely need to tow it?

craftsman makes a socket that is made for stripped bolts. It has saved me a few times. It is hard to explain, but it has a bunch of wire in about a 1" socket that grips the fastener. There just has to be a little bit of something for it to catch on.

What ever you do, be careful not to get any crap in the cylinder. Otherwords you are going to take off the head.

Good luck

I hate to say it but yer screwed.
I have seen this happen once befor and had to replace the head. The spark plug became a part of the head. It was overheated repeatedly.

Sry man. I hope you can get it out.

It's completely repairable, it just comes down to whether you have to pull the head or not. Since it's just the steel threaded portion left in the head you can take a shot at using a square easy out, but if you sheared off the hex portion likely it's well seized into the head casting. For a proper repair the head will likely have to be pulled. Worst case scenario, a heli coil insert will repair the head, and a qualified machine shop is well worth the cost of the repair.

Thanks folks! I tried briefly to get the remainder of the plug out, but no luck - it's seized in there pretty good. :( Guess I'll be calling the tow truck tomorrow. On the plus side, I'll get my mechanic to pull the other 5 spark plugs - I'll bet they are going to be just as much fun. :eek:

Why call the tow truck. Just pull the head. Really not a big deal...

If you can't pull the head, then i would just drive it to the shop on 5 cylinders...

Find a neighbor with a welder. Have him weld a nut onto the broken spark plug. Wait for the (now) welded nut to loose it's color (red) then back the offending broken spark plug piece out. It's a cast iron head so the weld won't sick unless he uses a SS or cast steel rod. As for driving it, one spark plug missing is nothing--drive it to a welder and do as I said above.

As for the rest of the spark plugs, get a Mapp Gas Torch (it has a hotter flame than a propane torch) to heat each spark plug up before you try to pull any more of them. Also, when you go to put the new plugs in, put Neversieze or Antisieze on them and DO NOT PUT THE PLUGS IN WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT--wait till it's cool.

Here's an example of a Mapp Gas Torch: http://www.professionalequipment.com/turbotorch-stk-9-propane-mapp-gas-hand-torch-kit-0386-0403/soldering-torches/

Can I really drive it as is? Won't stuff come shooting out the spark plug hole, since it's not plugged (remember, the ceramic part of the plug came out in one peice)?

I'd consider pulling the head, but I don't have the proper tools to deal with the broken plug. Everything is closed tomorrow due to the holiday, so nothing is happening till Monday - at which point I'm back at work, and my mechanic buddy is open.

go with cardinals idea (which I really like) and weld a nut on the end of the plug. It is easy.

If you don't have a welder, go to some exhaust shop and tell them what to do.

It is OK to drive it, I just would not go too far...

Find a neighbor with a welder. Have him weld a nut onto the broken spark plug. Wait for the (now) welded nut to loose it's color (red) then back the offending broken spark plug piece out. It's a cast iron head so the weld won't sick unless he uses a SS or cast steel rod. As for driving it, one spark plug missing is nothing--drive it to a welder and do as I said above.

As for the rest of the spark plugs, get a Mapp Gas Torch (it has a hotter flame than a propane torch) to heat each spark plug up before you try to pull any more of them. Also, when you go to put the new plugs in, put Neversieze or Antisieze on them and DO NOT PUT THE PLUGS IN WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT--wait till it's cool.

Here's an example of a Mapp Gas Torch: http://www.professionalequipment.com/turbotorch-stk-9-propane-mapp-gas-hand-torch-kit-0386-0403/soldering-torches/
I have done this and it works well.The idea is having something to grab onto but most importantly heating up the remainder of the plug at the same time to get it to break free..The only other thing I suggest is dont try to just manhandle it out.loosen it a turn then go back a 1/4 turn as to just work it out.When I did this I messed up the threads a hair and I am sure that if I had gone a little easier then I would have not done so.If you do mess them up you can buy a tap to clean them up.One more thing.I would also try to make sure that you have the cylynder at top dead center so that any debris or fillings stay up top and are easier to blow out with a blow gun.after you blow it out a couple times from aiming the blow gun in different directons(wear safety goggles)spray a litle carb cleaner in there and blow it out again.Once you are done spray a tad of wd40 in so that you dont fire it up with a completely drie cylinder.Hope this helps...Been there done that!