I read on an earlier post that someone moved their started solenoid away from the starter itself in order to get it away from the exhaust heat. If I'm not just dreaming that up, what do I have to do to make a remote solenoid?

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"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Caroll Shelby

Your some what right.

When doing this you leave your stock GM solenoid on the starter. Get a Ford solenoid, mount it on firewall or where ever you want it.

Now you place a "jumper" wire or metal tab plate on your GM solenoid so it hooks the "S" post and the big battery cable post together.

Then you run your battery cable from batt. to "A" post on ford solenoid, then battery cable from "B" post on ford solenoid to the big post on your GM solenoid

Now hook the wires that went to your "S" post on your chevy starter to the "S" post on the ford solenoid.

http://www.novaresource.org/images/solenoid04.gif

You really don't need to rewire the starter, just add a relay to provide full battery voltage to the solenoid. If you jump the S terminal to the battery cable you may experience a delay in the release of the starter due to the voltage generated by the starter.

Or you can get one of these.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

I put one on mine and it works great - also easy to install.

I'm a little confused about how adding a relay helps. On the starter that I have in the car right now, the solenoid is completly useless when the car is up to temp. Basically, the car wont start unless the engine is cold. So, if the Solenoid stays where it is wont the problem still exist?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Chubby78LT:
I'm a little confused about how adding a relay helps. On the starter that I have in the car right now, the solenoid is completly useless when the car is up to temp. Basically, the car wont start unless the engine is cold. So, if the Solenoid stays where it is wont the problem still exist?</font>

Old school, cheap trick: cram some fiberglass insulation in between the solenoid and the exhaust. Just make sure you remove any paper if there is any on it. It works great and the stuff won't melt because your exhaust doesn't generate enough heat to melt glass. Make sure you wear gloves and breathing protection.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Chubby78LT:
I'm a little confused about how adding a relay helps. On the starter that I have in the car right now, the solenoid is completly useless when the car is up to temp. Basically, the car wont start unless the engine is cold. So, if the Solenoid stays where it is wont the problem still exist?</font>

First off, you can't move the solenoid, it's part of the starter. The commonly used Ford starter relays are sometimes referred to as 'solenoids', but they are just a heavy duty relay.
The solenoid is a current operated device and requires a certain amount of current to make it actuate. The typical starter solenoid has a resistance of about 1.5 ohms and will draw about 8 amps at 12 volts.
When the solenoid gets hot its resistance increases by about .393% per °C. If you increase the temperature of the solenoid from 20°C to 100°C you will increase the resistance to 1.97 ohms, reducing the current to about 6 amps. If you include the circuit resistance of the ignition switch, the safety switch and the various connections in the line you may well exceed 3 ohms total, which reduces your current to 4 amps. This may be insufficient to pull the solenoid in far enough to actuate the starter. If it's on the ragged edge, you will get the common chattering of the solenoid.
Adding the relay reduces the circuit resistance to a minimum, providing a direct path from the battery to the solenoid. This will give you the best chance of having enough current to actuate the solenoid. My starter solenoid is about 1/8" from my headers and it has worked flawlessly for several years using the above circuit.