Ok first of all I came to this sight since you guys seems to have one of the more advanced engine info pages. I personaly have a Chevy II so please dont hold this against me LOL (mybro has a 72 camro though). Any way to the point. Im building a 383 I have 2 blocks I pulled myself one is a 010 the other is a 207 both are 4 bolt mains the 010 dont have a 020 it just a 010(no hiper main caps). I have hurd alot of good stuff about the 010's I also have seen some post in the past some people saying the 207 was also good. But not nearly as much hipe as the 010. I know they need to be checked but just genaraly speaking wich would be the first to pick. The engine should be pretty strong AFR heads Scat bottom end,Comp solid Roller ..ect..ect

Thanks
Matt

The .010 blocks have a high nickel content which makes them strong and desirable....Gettin harder to find..I dont know much about the 207..
Good luk
hulk

Yeah I knew the 010 was for nickle content I saw a post one time some time way back. About a 207 having even more than a 010 BUT that was just one person opinion. I have figured it prob wasnt true but since I possesed them both i would ask the question to see if there maybe be some one who knows more than I. I was also thinking that if it was prob that good that there would have been more talk around about them. The 010 4 bolt is a little alusive especialy with all the 2 bolt vrs of the 010 in the past 2 weeks I have pulled pans on 6 350's 3 were 010's only 1 010 was a 4 bolt and it was in a full sized familay van. One 014 wich was a 2 bolt the first 350 i pulled I dont remeber I just remeber it could be 2 or 4 when I run the # Then today i pulled the 207 wich I knew was a 4 bolt because it was a 207 it was in a great Big Dual weel. But the place I get them from is only $24.99 for a empty block15.00 core charge! So I have been treasure hunting wile waint on my Rotating kit.:bowtie:

We build a lot of circle traxck engines and we have used a lot of the 207 blocks, But the first thing we do is sonic test the cylinders for cylinder wall thickness as that should be the major area to look at. And if you can find one with 2482 on the center caps and it sonic tests good you should be all set.

The 207 blocks are a high nickel block and on the 010 blocks the blocks that jave K on the main caps tend to have a weaker main webbing then the 010/020 blocks.

Yeah the 010 I have has the K on the caps the 207 has the same number on the caps but no K I belive the number was 3241 or somthing to that efect its not siting in front of me so.. I may be a letter off. Like I stated before its not a 020 has no 020 no where so. Do you think based of the K that the 207 block would be better if it checks out? Also is the nickle content just as high as the 010?.

Ok I just went out and looked at the two caps have the same #'s except the 207 dont have the K the 010 has both have a F both have 3142 numbers BUT I miced the cap thickness the 207 they all miced right at .995 the 010 block was .990-92 with one the #2 from the front being .970 wich I thought was odd. The 207 shows no evidence of cap walk. the 010 show a little on the #1 the 010 looks to visualy have no core shift were the 207 maybe just a bit but not nearly as bad as some I have seen. But I know some people say not to look at core shift. Looking at the main web areas to me at a glance they look to be nearly identical.

The one thing that you need to be aware of is the 207 block is passenger side dipstick, the 010 is driver's side.

Rust, does it matter what side the stick is on??
Hulk

Naturally, the oil pan is specific to that block, and there is the potential for dipstick to header interference. Best to check the latter issue out before you build that engine.

Ok first of all I came to this sight since you guys seems to have one of the more advanced engine info pages. I personaly have a Chevy II so please dont hold this against me LOL (mybro has a 72 camro though). Any way to the point. Im building a 383 I have 2 blocks I pulled myself one is a 010 the other is a 207 both are 4 bolt mains the 010 dont have a 020 it just a 010(no hiper main caps). I have hurd alot of good stuff about the 010's I also have seen some post in the past some people saying the 207 was also good. But not nearly as much hipe as the 010. I know they need to be checked but just genaraly speaking wich would be the first to pick. The engine should be pretty strong AFR heads Scat bottom end,Comp solid Roller ..ect..ect

Thanks
Matt

Matt,,, I'll see if I can keep they guys from hating you for your chassis choice ;) (LMAO) ;) There is a great bunch of very helpfull people around here. Don't sweat the little stuff.

Like cnc said both have about the same potential. Choose the one with the best cylinder walls. I assume your building a pump gas n/a motor and at street performance levels I see that as being as much of an issue as anything else. Most if not all of these 3, 4 and 5 decade old cores are going to need +.030 to +.040 to clean up the bores. IMO an high tin/nickle casting is a pig in a dress if you have to take it to +.060 to get a true straight bore.

Besides,,, we have a member who works at one of the GM engine plant foundarys and says the "010 / 020" thing is an urban legend, myth, magazine hype and total BS. The end panels are cast seperately from other components of the core and just because you see 010 020 on the end panel means nothing. And the casting number 3970010 that is typically associated with the 010 / 020 castings could have any number of end plates or cores. What's true??? I really have no hard facts for either. We assume the books / legends that cite the high tin/nickle as fact,, well anyone can write a book, and where is their proof. And if it 'was' fact at one time, when did it start, who can prove it and when did it stop, or did it??????

The only way your going to prove this 100% for positive is to core drill a couple of hundred documented blocks with and without the fabled magic numbers. Your goiung to have to sample the end plates and cylinders,,, and have the material from each analyzed to see if it's consistant, THEN see if one really does contain the fabled 20% more nickle. And besides,,, if one block contains 10% or 20% more tin and nickle,, what is the standard formula?? And what is a 'perfect' formula? Does tha added nickle cause the block to become brittle and crack easier??? Or does it really make it stronger?

Without starting a peeing match here,, IMO cylinder wall thickness of the finish machined block would be of greater importance than any number sandcast into the block anywhere.

Thanks for the info Marv and CNC! Most of what you say makes alot of sense I have always hurd that wall thickness should be the final say. Im not siting on a fortune to have all these diffrent blocks tested is why i asked the question to more or less narrow my dicision.

I know about the dip stick diffrence I pulled the 207 out of a truck yesterday. And I pulled the 010 2 weeks ago with the DR side dipstick this im not to concerned with.

As you stated Marv streetablity will be kinda a joke really. I will drive it ocasionaly on the street never more than prob 5or 6 miles from the house maybe to the track wich is in the same city aswell.