I have fixed my vaccum lines as cardinal said to, thanks John. Now I have a Thing that needs vaccum but I dont have another vaccum line I can route besides the break booster and the vaccum advance other than the intake vaccum advance on the carb.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/MYEYESBURNRED/Whatthehell.jpg
The thing circled, what is that and do I have to have vaccum to it?

Looks like the EFE valve that closes the exhaust at the passenger side and routes it under the intake to the drivers side. Used to quickly warmup the intake plenum for better driveablity and reduced emissions. Needs a vaccum source from a thermostatic coolant switch located at the front of the intake. May also be on the thermostat housing. Would have to dsuble check.

John

That is the "orb of power". It contains an artificial sigularity and can destroy the entire planet if you apply vacuum to both ports!

Just kidding..... it's an in-line vacuum reservoir for the HVAC cvontrols. You take the vacuum line from the intake and plug it into one port and then on the other port you plug in the line that goes back through the firewall to run the HVAC stuff. I beleive most also have a one-way valve built into them. If you get the two lines on wrong you won't get any vacuum to the HVAC stuff (you'll be working the one-way valve the wrong way). if that's the case, just reverse the lines on the "orb of power" and you'll be good to go.

It's function is to preserve enough vacuum sot when you go wide open and manifold vacuum drops to zero than your HVAC settings don't just got back to default (which is blowing out at your feet on most GM cars).

So I have to have that hooked up? Great, well this is what I think im going to do, just get a spitter vaccum t off deal and go from the port on the back of the carb and go booster/orb of power. Will that work? Also can I use the nipple on the far right to get vaccum for it?

You can hook it to any source you have handy that give full manifold vacuum- including putting it on a T off another vacuum vacuum. But beyond that point it's gotta be "in line" on the vacuum line before it gets to the HVAC stuff.

So the far right nipple on my edelbrock carb will do fine?

If it's full manifold vacuum, yeah, it'll work fine. I don't work on Edelbrock carbs much.

Levi,

If we are talking about the thing ringed in blue on your photo, John (79ZED) has it right. It should only have temporary vaccuum until the engine warms up...once the engine is hot, that valve should get no vaccuum or you will have too much backpressure in the exhaust system.

Damon is talking about the black plastic orb that sits behind the ringed thingy mounted almost on the firewall. As he rightly says, that can have permanent vaccuum.

Levi,

Listen to John and Nick.

That is the efe valve actuator.

When the engine is cold it should have vacuum from a TVS switch (Thermal Vacuum Switch). The TVS switch is almost always mounted on the Thermostat housing.

Once your engine is warmed up vacuum is removed and the efe actuator opens allowing exhaust to flow through the passengers side of the Y pipe.

You dont want vacuum on the actuator full time; this would result in all of the exhaust gasses from the passenger side pistons to be routed through your intake manifold.

Not a good thing, your exhaust system, intake manifold and engine wont like it.

Rick M.

So far, what would you recommend you do with this damn thing, im about to just put a plug over it. Ill keep it hooked up to the manifold vaccum on the carb for the time being...

Oh, fudge. They're right. I was looking at the HVAC vacuum reservoir. What's circled is, indeed the EFE actuator valve. Leave it unplugged completely. You don't need it.

"Goose, this is Maverick. We're in a flat spin. Time to punch out of this thread."

Cool, ill just nipple it off I guess, thanks =D

No, no, no... you need it for emmissions. Your carbon footprint can't be any bigger or else it'll lead to global warming, and it'll all be YOUR fault!! And don't give me any of that carbon neutral lifestyle crap either!

Oh, wait... wrong thread!

Actually they're right; it is for EFE. You'll need full vacuum like they said, and it gets routed to the waterneck with a YELLOW thermal switch. This is opposite of a normal switch in the fact that it CLOSES when it reaches temperature. Make sure you install the hoses to it correctly, or else you'll have both a vacuum leak AND a closed EFE valve. Not a good time if you hook it up wrong.

Ok guys, maybe I should have posted this earlier, the thing that originally went to I think went to my air filter housing maybe. Because I have no yellow thermostat whatever you call it. I have a edelbrock air filter now, so yeah? I have no real place to put it besides the manifold vaccum right port on the eddy carb. So I have no place else to put it...this is a 75 so I dont have to smog it anymore, so if I dont need it can I remove it?

Listen, this is a moot point. I dealt with all this crap on my car and you know what my solution was? tear that shit off.

First off, it's a pre heat device, right? well originally your car had a big air cleaner with a stove pipe and a heatshield around that manifold to bring warm air into the carb when the motor was cold. This would work if that valve was there or not. The valve just closes off when the motor is cold and makes it that much hotter til the engine reaches temp - and the valve is supposed to open.

Since you no longer have the original induction, air cleaner, or presumably the vacuum switches, the EFE serves no purpose at all.

On my car however, it was rusted shut and as you can imagine was not particularly conducive to producing horsepower.

My advice is - check to see if the valve can be moved by hand (so it ain't stuck shut) and then just unbolt all that valve, linkage, etc off the car. Also, I'd replace that tube just behind it with a proper pcv breather so you don't have crap falling into your motor through an unfiltered tube.


PS if it IS stuck shut you will basically need to unbolt your exhaust system (good luck with that) and replace the valve with a length of pipe. I just put in headers and full exhaust.

You got exactly My point, this is what it looks like under the hood.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/MYEYESBURNRED/carb%20and%20mani/carbandmani001.jpg
So I will just put a damn nipple on it for a while till I can get some headers and my exhaust system I guess. Don want to Eff with the manifolds right now, they havent been off in god knows how long and there pretty rusty dirty as hell if you ask me.

Ok guys, maybe I should have posted this earlier, the thing that originally went to I think went to my air filter housing maybe. Because I have no yellow thermostat whatever you call it. I have a edelbrock air filter now, so yeah? I have no real place to put it besides the manifold vaccum right port on the eddy carb. So I have no place else to put it...this is a 75 so I dont have to smog it anymore, so if I dont need it can I remove it?

Levi, I've got a '75 too and I removed mine. If you take it completely off make sure the heat riser valve on the exhaust pipe (where the rod from the EFE goes) is open. When you remove the rod , that little butterfly valve is loose and will vibrate and close, choking your exhaust. I just wedged mine to stay in the open position. The EFE adds some exhaust heat to the bottom of the intake manifold to prevent fuel puddling in cold weather when the engine is cold. There's enough heat coming through the hole in the manifold that you don't need it at all.

K cool, ill see what I can do with this thing =D.