Who runs one?

I did some digging on this topic & I did see some positive feedback on this one, but it is a bit salty for my budget: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AVM%2D30%2D4100&N=700+400407+308464+115&autoview=sku

I'm considering this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D6593&N=700+4294925228+115&autoview=sku

Has anybody else tried the Edelbrock version?

the second one you linked to ( the cheap one) is a narrow bad 02 and is pretty much worthless if you want meaningfull data. look at some of the inovate brand wide band kits too. there is quite a selection now days. fast makes a nice one too but its not the cheapest.

doug

AEM makes a nice one for $299,
comes in alot of different colors, styles, finishes,
all WideBand,

I have the Edelbrock on my 70. It does everything I wanted it to do. With how my car feels and the gas mileage I get the AF readout seems to be pretty accurate and consistant. It would pay for itself pretty quick with improved gas mileage but be aware that jetting and adjusting the carb is a long drawn out process to get it really dialed in.

I can't say that I know the difference between NARROW band and WIDE band. Can anybody help me understand why the WIDE band is better?

I see that the narrow band versions are nothing more than a volt meter that lights up a series of LED's depending on the voltage it reads across the O2 sensor. Thus, I would imagine the lights are always jumping around.

What does the wideband get me?

I can't say that I know the difference between NARROW band and WIDE band. Can anybody help me understand why the WIDE band is better?

I see that the narrow band versions are nothing more than a volt meter that lights up a series of LED's depending on the voltage it reads across the O2 sensor. Thus, I would imagine the lights are always jumping around.

What does the wideband get me?


The wideband gives you an accurate reading away from 14.7:1. The narrow band is accurate at stoich (14.7:1) and is "guessing" away from there, and would not be considered accurate at the richer wot readings. That's where you need to know the true a/f.

Jody

A narrow band O2 sensor has a very narrow band where it reads any meaningful data. Just below 14.7 and the voltage drops right off, above, and it jumps way high. It's kind of like a light switch, on or off-the computer in an EFI (or feedback-carbed car) just adds more fuel when the reading in low or uses less when it's high, and bounces back and forth between rich and lean. The readouts will tell you if you are running rich or lean, as well as when it is at 14.7, but won't tell you how far off it is.

A wide band O2 sensor has a gentle curve for an output, the leaner, the higher the output, the richer, the lower. It acts more like a dimmer switch than an on/off switch. With them you can tell accurately what your mixture is.

Here's another comparison: Have you ever tried playing a driving or flying game on the computer using the arrow keys? You know how you have to keep tapping the key to follow a curve-hold it down and you turn too sharp, don't hold it long enough and you don't make the turn. That's how a narrow band sensor reads.
A wide band sensor can follow the curve, like using a steering wheel.

Now that I've strayed from your question, the wide band gauges are good for tuning at all operating ranges. When you floor it you want to run rich, somewhere between 12:1 and 13:1 in most cases. IF you want economy you'd want to run lean, possibly as high as 16:1. The narrow band readout won't be abot to tell you whee you are, but the wide band gauges will. It takes the guesswork out of the process.