I'm planning on getting one of these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66789&autoview=sku

I have hydraulic lifters, Harland Sharp roller rockers (1.5 ratio), Edelbrock RPM heads, 0.028" gasket, and a sbc that was decked to be true (flat-top pistons are 0.025" in the hole). My engine is on a stand & has not yet been fired. I have not primed the oil pump yet either.

My question is this... Do I need to soak the lifters in oil first before I check my valve geometry? Do I need to wipe the assembly lube off of the lobes as well? Obviously, I would re-lube the lobes before I buttoned up the engine...

I'm concerend that these two factors will impact my measurements.

You should always soak the lifters in oil overnight IMO. Otherwise they will compress when you are checking the geometry.


I wouldn't wipe off any KY either. The access will be wiped off with the lifter.

If it were mine I would check the valve geometry, and then I would take out all of the lifters and re-soak them in oil overnight. I would then put a generous amount of assembly lube on the bottom of each lifter. (The side that contacts the cam). After that button it up and do a countdown...

Just remember the most important step in the breakin process is that initial startup. See your cam manufacturer for details. Most require a 30 min period between 2K and 2.5K RPM's.

big mouse,,
don't soak hydraulic lifters. never a need if primed properly. they can hold the valves open sometimes and not preload correctly. causes popping up the carb or out the exhaust sometimes on startup. not good on the cam lobes either,, if the pressure never releases till they bleed down to the correct height,,,,,,IF they do. they'll gain the correct height when you use the proper primer that blocks/completes the oil passage through the lower distributor hole. or a home made dizzy primer with the mechanical advance removed from the shaft,, and the gear teeth ground off on the bench grinder. pump a minute,, then rotate the crank 1/4 turn,, pump a minute,, then rotate the crank 1/4 turn,, repeat this until the crank has gone 2 revolutions to make every lifter come down to the base circle of the cam to get oil. can't fill up with oil with pressure on the plunger from the valve spring when it's got the valve open.

also,, i always check geometry with a solid lifter,, or in a pinch you can use lightweight checking valve springs so the plunger doesn't collapse. also,, the solid has the same plunger height as the hydraulic as when the hydraulic is preloaded correctly,, so,, figure in that math in your head as you're looking at the geometry. i make it so the geometry puts the rocker tip at the same place on the valve stem tip,, when at rest,, and at max lift. that centers the geometry within the travel and eases valve guide wear. hope this helps your concerns. let us know if there's anything else.

Also I am sure you already have them but I believe edy rpms require a .1" longer hardened pushrods... Better safe than sorry...

IMO soak the lifters. Do a search.

please read through this post. There are many more like it. Read post 19 and 20

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36914&highlight=soaking+lifters

please read through this post. There are many more like it. Read post 19 and 20

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36914&highlight=soaking+lifters

Thanks guys. That was an interesting read. I see what you are both saying.

So, I won't soak the lifters, but I will go ahead & prime the engine until I can get some pressure on the gauge (I kept my old HEI specifically for this ;). The solid lifter is an interesting idea. I might try it that way first. Good idea.

I couldn't find anything about pushrod length for my specific heads (70cc straight plug RPM's). Edelbrock tech support wasn't much help. I guess there are too many variables to take into account(?). I'm assuming I need the hardened ones that are .1" longer, but I just wanted to check (using my stock rods) before I ordered the longer ones...

Look, this is a feelie thing so mock it up, install your little dealie and use a feeler gauge and go!!

Don't worry about oil and stuff b/c you won't be pre-loading the lifters enough to even worry about it!! If in doubt, spin the p/r between your thumb and finger while feeler gauging it and you will be fine

pdq67

make sure that the pushrods are not plugged. Ive seen new rods plugged.
Always preoil the engine via the pump and never with the starter as some brainiacs do.

I've starter pre-lubed a couple BUT w/o the sparkplugs in them fine!!

pdq67

I've starter pre-lubed a couple BUT w/o the sparkplugs in them fine!!

pdq67
when you do that you will have a better chance of wipping the cam if its a flat tappet.

NOT w/ good old MOLY-LUBE on everything!!

W/O it, NO way!!!

pdq67