i have a good old 350block 010 thinking of going with 383 stroker forged kit...who should i look to scat? any 1 else whats the skinny good bad ins outs....... plan on useing afr heads and running spray on this.......thanks....

Lot's of places putting together packages. I would look for Eagle ESP rods and SRP pistons. I've beat on those components a lot over the last 10 years and not had a failure. For crank, lots of options and variation in cost. Cola is a good crank, as is Scat forged, crower, Howards, Eagle (if you get assurances it's finished to the proper size) just pick one that fits your budget.

I Prefer Eagle for a street engine and Mahle pistons. The only problem with Mahle's is that you would have to go 0.040 over and run a 6.0" rod but it will handle a shot of N20 if you decide to run it later.

We are kind of partial to the Scat products as we have seen to many problems with the Eagle stuff like the Sir rods and we had problems years ago with the quality of there cranks.

Here is a link to a 383 we built for a customer
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106715&highlight=DYNO

Scat is also our "go to brand" for 80% of our aftermarket rods and cranks. We have had great luck with them, and at most the pin bushings need a little honing to get the clearance we desire. (a good thing)

I love the Mahle pistons and rings, that stuff is so light you can internal balance some 5.7 rod combos without mallory. If you are only planning a mild nitrous kit, by all means go with these pistons. If you're thinking 150 HP or more, the thin piston lids coupled with the ultra thin metric rings makes me a bit leary in recommending them. I would go for a set of Wiseco Pro Tru's at this point, there's more lid thickness and they use the thicker compression rings as well as a much higher tension (and wider) oil ring.
As far as rods, buy the Scat H beams, they're bulletproof and you need only to buy them once. ;)
As far as the crank, I'm partial to the Pro Mod Scat 4340 steel cranks due to the much better pin tolerances and better finish on the crank, but we've had to add a small slug of mallory most often in the back of the crank do to them removing the flywheel flange counterweight. No big deal, but good to know.
These parts will give you a quality engine that will last many many rerings unless you kill it one way or another.

thanks guys good to know abuot the pistons rust..................