Can somebody tell me if this rear main seal is installed backwards? http://bingweb.binghamton.edu/~ekopp1/Assembly-03.jpg


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Webpage (http://bingweb.binghamton.edu/~ekopp1/)

[This message has been edited by 79rallysport (edited May 06, 2005).]

It's installed correctly

Should be flush to the surface but other than that it looks good. Where was your leak?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by SteveF1979Z:
Should be flush to the surface but other than that it looks good. Where was your leak?</font>


I've read that you don't want the seam in the main seal to line up with the seam on the main cap.

I don't know where the leak is coming from. I'm not sure if its the engine or the tranny. After driving the car for a while there is oil covering the bottom of the oil pan, tranny, and tranny hump. I've looked everywhere and still can't find it.

At first I thought it was the drain plug on the engine oil pan. I have a Milodon 7qt pan and the drain hole and plug don't seem to be the best quality so I replaced the plug with a better one.

My combo is in my sig if anybody has any suggestions.

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Webpage (http://bingweb.binghamton.edu/~ekopp1/)

Parts stores sell a leak detection kit. The one I bought uses a dye, a bluish light and a set of yellow safety glasses. The leak shows up in bright green. Given your apparent determination to remedy the leak you may want to consider parting with about $100 for one.

I didn't know such a thing existed. I'll give it a shot.

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Yup the seal should be flush with the block... What about the cap? is there a seal on it? I have seen people forget to install the 2nd half of a "2" piece rear seal. It will cause a very nasty leak

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by badazz81z28:
Yup the seal should be flush with the block... What about the cap? is there a seal on it? I have seen people forget to install the 2nd half of a "2" piece rear seal. It will cause a very nasty leak</font>


Dude, like I said earlier, I've read in at least a dozen places that say to stagger the parting lines of the seal and the cap. If you want I can find some to prove it to you.

And yes I installed both pieces of the seal.

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79: Trust me on this one. Do not, I repeat, do not stagger the seal ends. Make the seal flush with the cap before assembling, put a little dab of silicone on the seal ends. I have put together numerous race engines over the last 30 years ago. Never had one with a main seal leak using this method. On the other hand, I have seen several leakers on seals installed staggered. My friend has 67 Nova 420 cubic inch small block. I did not do the assembly work, it was done in Pennsylvania. This car runs 8.80 in the 1/4 and has been chasing an oil leak for the last 3 weeks. I told him it was the rear main seal. He did not believe me. I pulled the pan. Low and behold staggered seal. Put a new seal in flush, no more oil leak. Plus I got a free dinner out of "the bet".

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1970 SS/RS L-34 A/C

This is a little cheaper than the leak detection kit.

Baby powder or chalk line chalk works well. Coat your engine in that and see where the powder is wet, and that's where your leak is coming from. Rinse it off and your done.

Coat engine in Brakeclean before starting, as it has to be dry to determine where the leak starts.

This is a wierd method, I know, but it does work.

Just for information the guy I work with at a machine shop has been building engines for 35 years. When I suggested staggering the rear main seal he said he'd break my friggen fingers. Anyways rear main seal are the only oil leaks shortblocks are warranteed for and he claims hes never had to warranty one so I will stick to his way. Jeff

Take a look at the fitting on the manifold for your oil pressure gauge. When mine loosened up it really looked like the rear main was shot.