Well, I wrote in a while back about my 400 engine smoking at WOT. Pulled engine and found out crank was wiped out. Block is a 400 # 3951511-2 bolt. Now, what to do about rotating assembly? Should I go with Scat or Eagle? Stroker or not? I want to get to about 500HP. I have World Sportsman II iron heads-64CC chambers, Edelbrock 1407 750 CFM carb, and a Crane Blueracer cam
Grind Number: 300-2H
Operating Range: 2500-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 300° Intake / 310° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 234° Intake / 244° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .488'' Intake / .510'' Exhaust
Max Lift Angle: 109° ATDC Intake / 119° BTDC Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 114°
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 8° BTDC (opens) / 46° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 61° BBDC (opens) / 3° ATDC (closes)
Hedman 1 3/4" coated headers
What else would I need....any help appreciated...thanks,
1973 Camaro RS Z-28, Tremec 5 spd, AC, PS, PB, 3.73 rear

Budget?

Why such wide LSA on carbed engine? Otherwise the cam specs look close to what id personally want, though id like a little more lift. Perhaps 1.6 rockers.

I ran that cam with Vortecs heads on a 400 and it was an animal. Not a bad cam for a 400 street car in my opinion and experience.

The motor has 1.6 on the exhaust and 1.5 on the intakes...my budget is about $2500.....

Well, I wrote in a while back about my 400 engine smoking at WOT. Pulled engine and found out crank was wiped out. Block is a 400 # 3951511-2 bolt. Now, what to do about rotating assembly? Should I go with Scat or Eagle? Stroker or not? I want to get to about 500HP. I have World Sportsman II iron heads-64CC chambers, Edelbrock 1407 750 CFM carb, and a Crane Blueracer cam
Grind Number: 300-2H
Operating Range: 2500-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 300° Intake / 310° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 234° Intake / 244° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .488'' Intake / .510'' Exhaust
Max Lift Angle: 109° ATDC Intake / 119° BTDC Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 114°
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 8° BTDC (opens) / 46° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 61° BBDC (opens) / 3° ATDC (closes)
Hedman 1 3/4" coated headers
What else would I need....any help appreciated...thanks,
1973 Camaro RS Z-28, Tremec 5 spd, AC, PS, PB, 3.73 rear

Both Eagle and Scat has a good reputation. Personally, I would go with Eagle. For 500HP, a 400 can do very well, as would a 406; a cast steel crank can support up to 500hp, and a 4340 can stand 700hp. Dependin on how much you want to spend, the cast steel crank should do you well.

Thanks, I am leaning for a internally balanced forged 4340 Scat rotating assembly I found at CNC-Motorsports for about $1500, that was the best deal Ive found....

Scat is crap. Their pre-balanced kits can be off as much as 50 grams. Find another kit without their junk. You'll kick yourself if you don't.

Cardinal, you might have had a bad experience with Scat, but there are plenty of others that have had great luck. I'm one of them. I wouldn't trust any brands (Eagle, Scat, etc.) "pre-balanced" assemblies. ALWAYS have a machine shop balance it.

The machine shop that I use, Syracuse Crank charges extra to work on Scat stuff. Says he spends more time and effort fixing their junk that it's worth to him and his customers. He prefers Crower which he says saves the coustomer money because of the quality alone. Brian did say that he had Lunati parts in and they were good too but he still prefers Crower.

I've personally seen two of the pre-balanced rotating asm. from Scat that had balance and straightness with the crank problems. Both were recommended and installed by reputable local machine shops. In both cases they had to pull the engines out of the car, tear the engine down, and rebalance them.

I wish you luck with them.

Scat is crap. Their pre-balanced kits can be off as much as 50 grams. Find another kit without their junk. You'll kick yourself if you don't.

We buy and balance a lot of Scat rotators and so far have had zero problems balancing a crank from them. About 5 years ago we had to buy 5 Eagle cranks to one good one the finish looked bad, The sizing was off and since then we have gone to Scat rotators.

Remember Scat does a lot for some of the top OEM maufactures. On the higher engines we build we have been using the Cranks from http://kingscrankshaft.com/ as there forgings are made in the U.S. and the Crowers are from over seas as well as the Callies cranks.

A friend of mine builds some Modified tour engines and was having trouble with the Crowers cracking across the rod journals after we started selling him the cranks from Kings about 5 years his problems we solved.

No one should buy a prebalanced assembly as we have seen them off up to 32 grams and it was an Eagle Crank.

Thanks guys that all was what I need to hear...even the guy at CNC said to go with Eagle instead of Scat because of the balancing problems with Scat...

Thanks guys that all was what I need to hear...even the guy at CNC said to go with Eagle instead of Scat because of the balancing problems with Scat...


I really did not say to go with an Eagle crank as we tend to use the Scats cranks as we have had no problems balancing the Scats cranks