For the price and quality, are there any other heads that can compare? I already have a good intake and all parts for a non-votec style head. I have an oportunity to pick up a set of vortec heads but don't know if it is worth the hassle to find all the other required pieces.

I'd love to pick up a set of Vortecs if you don't get them http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

Pricewise, the only comparable head is probably the World Products S/R Torquer heads, but they will run you $700-750 new. They can be found on Ebay though. Their flow numbers aren't quite as good as Vortecs but a few hours with a grinder could bring them up to par.

One thing that makes Vortecs so good is their combustion chamber. Nobody else has that design, and it's one reason they make such good swirl, which helps power.

Your prayers have been answered, New vortecs come form the factory set up to accept either bolt patterns. The newest Vortecs featured in this month's CHP show that they will be set-up for both bolt patterns, and new flow tech makes this the right time to invest in a new set.

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78Z/28 done up like 81 383,350T...
80Z/28 in restification 355,350T vortecs....
1971 Firebird in waiting
2002 T/A WS6 A4
www.geocities.com/z28f41/ (http://www.geocities.com/z28f41/) AOL IM Secondgenmanic

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by manicmechanic:
Your prayers have been answered, New vortecs come form the factory set up to accept either bolt patterns. The newest Vortecs featured in this month's CHP show that they will be set-up for both bolt patterns, and new flow tech makes this the right time to invest in a new set.

</font>
Are these just like the regular Vortecs, cast iron and all? Wonder what the price will be?? I also wonder if they will be set up for higher lift cams? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by manicmechanic:
Your prayers have been answered, New vortecs come form the factory set up to accept either bolt patterns. The newest Vortecs featured in this month's CHP show that they will be set-up for both bolt patterns, and new flow tech makes this the right time to invest in a new set.

</font>

Those are Bow Tie Vortec heads -- not L-31 Vortec heads. Big difference between the two.

The L-31 Vortecs are the truck heads which have been available for reasonable cost for years. The Bow Ties are a new head with either 175cc intake runner or 206 cc intake runner. They both will take either center or perimter mount valve covers.

The GMPP Bow Tie Vortecs have replaced the traditional iron Bow Tie heads, if I'm not mistaken.



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'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

LT - there is an article called "Blue Thunder 355" in the new CHP magazine - 632HP with the new Vortec heads.

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/cool.gif

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'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds:
LT - there is an article called "Blue Thunder 355" in the new CHP magazine - 632HP with the new Vortec heads.

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/cool.gif

</font>

Holy crap! What do those suckers flow?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds:
LT - there is an article called "Blue Thunder 355" in the new CHP magazine - 632HP with the new Vortec heads.

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/cool.gif

</font>
That's on a FASCAR motor build up, built to the hilt Stock Car racing motor. The Vortec Bow-Tie heads are PN 25534421 Small port assembled, 2" intake valve and 1.55" exhaust. Price is $ 499.95 (ea. ?) @ Scoggin- Dickey.



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78Z/28 done up like 81 383,350T...
80Z/28 in restification 355,350T vortecs....
1971 Firebird in waiting
2002 T/A WS6 A4
www.geocities.com/z28f41/ (http://www.geocities.com/z28f41/) AOL IM Secondgenmanic

So I can now use my current intake and valve covers with the bow-tie vortec heads?
Now I'm tempted to wait some more until I can afford these new vortecs. I suppose they dressed the new heads with higher lift and better springs?



[This message has been edited by SB72RS (edited April 17, 2005).]

SB,

Although I don't know for certain, I would be surprised if you did not need a Vortec intake for new heads also. Chevy made the intake runner taller to make a straighter path to the back of the valve on the original Vortecs and I doubt they would backtrack on this feature because it works.

I just answered my own question... read here from GMPartsdepot ad...

GM Performance Parts latest most powerful iron cylinder head for Street or Racing. This Vortec design Special Performance cast iron cylinder head features revised intake and exhaust ports and includes 2.00" hollow stem intake valve P/N 12555331 and 1.55" sodium filled exhaust valves P/N 12551313. The deck surface is .450" with 65 cc combustion chambers, 175 cc intake and 65 cc exhaust ports. All Vortec intake ports are taller and narrower than early model Chevrolet heads. The valve cover mounting holes are for both early model flange or late model center. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gifThis head also includes intake manifold mounting holes for both early model 6 bolt main or late model 4 bolt Vortec design. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gif The head has screw in rocker studs P/N 12552126, large valve spring pocket machining, and will accept up to .530" lift camshafts with out modifications. Heads are identified with the Bow-Tie logo on the exterior of the head below exhaust flange and Vortec logo on top of intake port area. They also feature GM logo cast into bottom of intake ports. Includes valve spring P/N 12551483, valve seal P/N 10212810, and spring cap P/N 10212808.

Technical Note:
You must use a raised runner design intake manifold P/N 10051103 (6 bolt mounting), or Vortec design 12366573, 12496820, 12496821, 12496822, and 12499371 (4 bolt mounting) with this head. You can use production Vortec intake gaskets P/N 12529094 (torque spec. 11ftlb/ 15Nm) for mounting Vortec design heads or use P/N 12497760 (torque spec. 30 ft-lb) with conventional material when using on early model raised runner or Vortec design intake manifolds, this gasket has both 6 bolt and 4 bolt Vortec attaching holes. Head casting P/N 25534351C.
Check out all of the GM Performance Parts Cylinder heads here


[This message has been edited by SB72RS (edited April 17, 2005).]

Hmmm, so either way you would have to buy a new intake http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif I still like the regular Vortecs. You can get 2 for the price of 1 of the new ones http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gif Plus 239 cfm of flow is plenty enough to get me in trouble http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

I purchased my new vortecs 2 years ago and they came tapped for both old and new style intakes.I opted to go with the new style intake because of the intake runner size Vortecs are alot bigger and the old style doesnt leave alot of metal to cover the gasket.Never regretted using vortecs . They work awesome.SB once you decide where you are headed with your lift and flow goals you might just find that with very little modes the regular vortecs will do the job.

[This message has been edited by cattmann1 (edited April 18, 2005).]

Well, tonight I took the plunge and after work I went to the guys house and purchased a set of vortec heads bolted to a factory roller motor. It has a rod knock, but that just means a greater opportunity for a 383! Less the intake, it is complete and I walked away only $100 poorer. Even if I have to spend some money getting the heads cleaned up I dont think I could have made a better buy...ok, whos jealous?

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Maybe, just once, someone will call me "sir" without adding, "you're making a scene"

That's good. As little as the junkyard I go by wants for a longblock, but they don't get anything with Vortechs...

Trouble with the Vortechs (for me anyways) is that nobody makes a good performance intake that will accept a Q-jet without one of those messy adapter plates.
Does anyone know of an intake like the Performer RPM Q-jet that will properly fit Vortechs?

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-'77 Camaro 'Original' - 357, home-ported heads and intake, Q-jet, headers, hyper flattops, ~8.5:1, 3.42 gears, 214/224-112LSA cam, 1LE rotors, D61 pads, 5642 springs
-'92 LeBaron LX sedan - all family owned, great daily driver and highway cruiser. 52mm TB, rear discs swapped.
-'70 Camaro - 350, 4-sp, nothing power, needs work, lotsa fun
-'65 Nova - 230 I6, 3 on the tree, nothing power. HEI swap.
-'70 Cadillac Sedan Deville. 10:1 472ci, TH400 - stock.

Why not just use the Performer Q-Jet Vortec intake?

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'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

Well, I'd like to put it together on a 383 with a nice-sized cam in it, aim for over 400 at the crank. I just don't want to go choking things off with the performer intake.

Would it be easier to buy a holly? Why the loyalty to Q-jet?

The car is 99% street driven, so I'd rather have the throttle response and fuel economy from the Q-jet. For the power level I'm looking at, I really don't think I'll be giving up anything staying with the Q-jet (plus I've already got a few).
I also think the Q is better designed than the Holley.

So what are your specs for the 400 hp? Im always looking at other peoples combo's to try to improve my own before I build.

Nothing too fancy, just vortech heads, maybe with some touch-up on the exhaust side.
Around 10:1 compression, long tube headers and 2.5" duals with a crossover (x-pipe when I can afford it).
I'll put on whatever is the best intake I can get for Vortechs that will fit a Q-jet, and EA says any number of cams will easily get me over 400hp at the flywheel.
I don't have a particular cam in mind at this point (probably because I don't have the money either!) but something with enough LSA for good vacuum, and peaking in the 5500-6000rpm range. Likely a flat-tappet for budget. I'm considering a custom grind based off the specs that the new LS6 uses, but not sure.
Then, I'm definately going to put money into the oil controll with a windage tray, scraper, oil pan baffling and trapdoors, etc. If I do any form of competition with the car, it is more likely to be autocross than dragracing, so I really want to keep the oil where it should be.