Okay. Here goes...I've got a 400 smallblock Chevy engine sitting that was formerly the engine in my 68 Camaro. My father and I pulled it because it smoked. It's been sitting in my garage since 1986.

I need an engine for my 1970 project and was thinking of rebuilding the one I have. Problem is my father (40+ year mechanic) has since passed away and I don't feel confident that I can do it on my own even though I want to...bad. We had rebuilt one engine together and it is still running great in my '68 Camaro convertible (see camera icon for pic).

I'm not sure what I need a machine shop to do and what I need to do (cleaning, boring, honing, magnafluxing, etc.) I know I can buy a rebuild kit, but putting the rotating assembly together properly using specialized tools (gauges, etc) is what I'm most worried about. I am mechanically inclined to some extent and I have completed a shortblock assembly before.

I was wondering if there was some article, book, or anything that includes step by step procedures or advice that someone could give me to help me in my goal of rebuilding this engine on my own. I've got a lot of my father's tools and I'm ready to put them to good use again. Funny, I'm still doing things to try to make my father proud of me, even though he's not here beside me anymore...except in spirit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Malo

Sorry to hear about your dad man. That's a shame.

You should build this engine then. It's not hard. If you need tools (mikes, calipers, gages, bases, etc) you can buy them on ebay for pretty cheap. There are also some good tools on www.froogle.com. (http://www.froogle.com.) I got a Starrett magnetic base for $70 on that site. I was stoked. I haven't used it yet though. hehe

As for the books, I cannot help you there. I would just go on Amazon and check them out. Most of the books on Amazon allow you to read through a few pages to sample the reading. It's a good feature to let you know how the writing and illustrations are.

Good luck.

------------------
Gordon

1979 Camaro Berlinetta

Start by identifying the reason the engine failed. Did it sieze, turn a bearing, break a piston. You are right that aftermarket cranks and rods are cheap. This means the block is the key and the heads which you'll no doubt want to keep on the mill for old times sake!

Tear the pans off, turn it over. Is the block thrust good? Start by tearing down as much as you can yourself. You'll save money and learn more. All you'll need is a damper puller readily available at the local parts store cheap to get it apart. Careful not no nick the crank journals with the rods bolts if you decide to completely strip it.

Tons of great books out there, I like alot of David Vizards cheap tricks and he's pretty current with parts chatter. There are many others, however to stay current with parts choices today check the publishing dates. Some stuff done in the late 80s is old school and there are many newer better ideas. I know ... I'm old school!


Good luck and keep asking questions here. You won't always get the answers but 90% of the time the experiance here is a huge help.

Build the engine yourself. Its pretty easy to do.

I built my 1st one from an old 1970's hot rod mag that showed the how to steps.

to save yourself some money on tools.. take engine apart. Take block to a good local machine shop (take crank too if your thinking about re useing it).

Ask them to check the bore and tell you want it will clean up at (what will the over bore be), also ask them if the crank needs polishing or turning, and if so how much needs to come off.

That will let you know what over size pistons, rings, and under size bearings to order in your kit.

depening on how high performance the build is gonna be, will tell you what all extra machine work is needed..

The common stuff is...
Hot tank clean
magnaflux/check for cracks
bore and hone
install cam bearings and all frezze plugs and oil galley plugs..
turn crank (if old one is reused and it needs turning)
install ARP rod bolts and resize rod big ends (if reuseing stock rods)

The rest you can do your self.. Useing mics, snap gauges etc is best way to check clearances, but the tried and true way will work for most if not all street engines..

Plastigauge.. Your rebuild kit should come with a strip of it.

You just cut you a pc. off, after you have lower bearings in and crank sitting down in saddles.

Wipe alittle oil on the crank main journal, take the little stiff string looking thing out of the package you just cut, place it on the main journals, put upper bearing in caps, put caps on and torque to specs.

Remove caps and get the wrapper you removed the stiff string thing from.. Hold wrapper next to the flattened out plastigauge, and compare the size.. Then read the number on the wrapper for that size and that is your bearing clearance.

The only other tools you'll need is.. The common hand tools, ft lbs torque wrench, piston ring compressor, and maybe valve spring compressor if you'r gonna rebuild the heads your self.

The key steps to the rebuild is checking and fixing bearing clearances if they are off, torquing everything to the right spec., adding the bearing lube, and cam lube to parts.

Cover inner parts of lower and upper halves of rod and main bearings with the red or green bearing lube jelly looking stuff.

Cover each cam lobe with thick black moly cam lube, also coat bottom of the lifters with it too.

For all the torque specs you can find them here... http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html

Once you get block back.. Wash with warm water and soap, air dry if you can, or wipe down with soft clean rag. You may nned to wash cyl bores 3 or 4 times.. You want them to where a white rag comes out of them white, not off white, gray, or black.

Once clean and dry, tape up all gasket flanges, openings, etc. Then paint with your fav color of high temp engine paint.

Once paint is dry.. Un tape, and oil the hell out of engine.. I use about 2 cans of WD-40 through out whole block..

After done with WD-40, I put some light oil on rag and run inside each cyl. Oiling each one fully.

Now your ready to put parts in..
cam in 1st.. This away you can turn block upside down, and guide cam in with other hand, through block. Remember lube covering all lobes.

Put woodroof keys in crank if not already in, and put lower timing chain gear on crank.

Then your lower main bearings, crank, upper main bearings and caps..Go through the clearance check with plastigauge.. If clearances are good..

Take caps off, crank out, etc.. lube lower bearings, sit crank in, lube upper mains, put caps on, torque to spec.

Now ring your pistons.. Some likes to use a tool, I dont. My fingers/thumbs works best for me, and I just kinda sprail the rings on. Make sure the ring gaps aint lined up

I like to wipe cyl down with MMO, before putting piston in.

Place bearings in rod and rod cap, put a lenght of 3/8" rubber fuel line over the rod bolts.. Slide your piston/rod in your compressor making sure you have tool right and piston facing right way.. Then slide through tool, into bore.. You may have to tap piston with hammer butt to get it in the cyl. Use the fuel line to guide the rod over the crank rod journal with out nicking it.

Now check clearances with plastigauge.. If good, un torque rod cap and remove, push rod.piston up in the bore some, add lube to both bearing halves, push piston back down, put rod cap back one, and torque.. Do that for all 8.

Then you can put your oil pump one, and pickup., then its time for upper chain gear and chain., etc etc..

night rider: thank you very much for writing that inspiring description. Yes, I remember using the plastigauge way back in the day. If it's still around today, it must do the job pretty well. I do have a good machine shop nearby that can prep the block. Those assembly specs will come in very handy. Thanks again! Malo

malo68... Your welcome.