ive heard cams is some cars and they dont sound right. i like a rough lumpy idly but the one i heard sounds like the cam only hits every couple of seconds, not at a constant pattern. is it where the duration isnt close like if the duration is 224intake and 254 exhaust. or what is it cause im getting a cam and i don't wont it sound like that.

It is the amount of overlap, in degrees, that the intake and exhaust is open at the same time.

what degree is the best for sound

I'm gonna scream the next time someone asks this question, I swear! http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/frown.gif http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/frown.gif http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/frown.gif

If the car is FAST and thrashes everyone you come up against who cares what it sounds like at idle? Buying a cam for a certain idle sound is something RICERS do in my opinion. Buy a cam and be concerned with the power it will help your engine make! Build it to make power, the idle will come with it and then you won't be a poser.

Sorry if I am being harsh, it's a pet peeve of mine.

Hey 73454, I think I would recommend a solid oak camshaft - if has that wooodin wooodin sound that all "racers" like http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

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79 Z28 Bought new, honeymoon ride, same wife, same car.

Im with 73454.. Who gives a damn about the idle..

That pro stock race car rump, rumpdy, rump, rump, rump, rumdy sound in a parking lot is just gonna make you look like a fool when your buddy with his 19 second honda calls you out and he takes you out of the hole, at the 1/8 mile mark and the 1/4 mile mark.

Over camming hurts torque. You MUST have the parts to match that big cam (compression, head flow, torque converter, gearing, etc)

If you just stick a big cam in a stock or mild engine, yeah you'll get that "cool" idle sound. Just like ricers thinks fart can tips sound cool, or wings make em' faster. but your car WILL BE SLOWER THAN IT WAS STOCK!!!! Just like thier rice rockets

You build an engine with the right parts, all matched together, and matched to the use of the car, and you gain power. You may or may not get a "cool" sound from it, but you will be faster than you was before.

If you have a daily driver and build for daily use, mild, etc then you wont get no cool sound factor cause your engine is built to work at the rpm you daily drive at (idle to 3500 rpm)

But if you want to take it up a notch and build for 1500-5000 rpm then you'll get alittle lope to the idle

The sound you are talking about is caused by BIG cams, larger the cam is, the more it moves your powerband up. In those engines, you couldnt even street drive them 10 miles cause of lack of low rpm power. They are made to run at and make peak power in the 4000-9000 rpm range.

Let me talk in a way you might understand better.. You want a daily driver/street car to make best power in the range you drive say like 10 MPH through 90 or 100 mph

With cars that has that real rough idle they start making power at the rpm that your at, at about 110 MPH.. See how that wouldnt work so well on the streets

The reason why they can even start off is the real lower gearing and high stall speeds

Your gearing is between 2.73-and 3.23 most liky, built up street cars change out gearing to 3.42 to 4.10

Those race cars use gearing the the 4.56 to 6.30's range

Your stall speed on converter is in the 1,000-1200 rpm range, built up street cars uses 1800-2800 stall

Those race cars uses a converter with min. of 4500 rpm stall, alot of them is even up higher like 5500, 6000, 6500 rpm stall...


Don't be a ricer with a chevy car.. Don't do mods to look cool, or sound bad.. Do mods to gain useable power

If you want a car that performs and don't mind a SLIGHT rough idle look into the Comp XE 256H or equivalent Crane, Lunati, etc. It will work great with a stock engine and will perform better with headers, intake, carb upgrades. Gas mileage will be pretty decent as well.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

i like a rough idle! I want everyone at the stoplight to know it isn't stock. You can hear mine by clicking the link, Lowering the lsa seems to let you use more duration without raising the powerband and in my opinion makes great power compared to a 110 lsa cam designed for the same powerband.
i would't ever reccomend buying a cam for idle sound, the cam i have matches the rest of my combo.

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283ci, 4spd, 4,200 stall, aluminum camel humps
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/163599/fullsize/Idlin%20smooth.WMV

[This message has been edited by Mwilson (edited April 07, 2005).]

the cam matches my combo cause im building a mostly stock 350, the only performance im doing is bolt-ons like intake,carb, and headers. so i figgured the cam i was looking at would work good and the sound would be a great plus. here is the specs for the cam

adv duration:274
duration@50:218/218
lift:450/450
lobe seperation:106

it said to use it with 8.75-9.5 compresion so i figured it would go great, cause im using stock 350 heads and internals and they are pretty low compression .

[This message has been edited by daves 76 rs (edited April 07, 2005).]

No flat tops?

Its worth the trouble if the motor is still disassembled.

In no way, shape or form would I use a cam with a 106 LSA with a low compression engine. Look for something with 112-114 LSA unless your rpm range is 5000-8000. Too much overlap will bleed off cylinder pressure at low rpm's resulting in a very sluggish engine.

Pull a vacuum line, most people won't know the difference anyway.

How did you get that compression?
I used a 280 CC in a dished piston 350 with 64cc heads and it ran and sounded great but i had a 2800 stall as well, it ran 8.3 in the 1/8 which is fairly quick.

i read in a haynes manual that stock 350 had 8.75:1 compression, is that wrong? i was going with flat top pistons. i was thinking that the lower lobe seperation would give that sound i was hunting for without having so much lift so it would run with a lower compression motor.

it said the rpm range was 2200-5200. and i figgured to make everything to work together i'll buy my intake and everything else to match that rpm range.

[This message has been edited by daves 76 rs (edited April 07, 2005).]

If you have flattops depending on your heads your probrably between 9 and 10 to 1 post the casting # on your heads.

Come on guys, he only wanted to know which cam would sound good. Maybe he doesn't care who he can outrun stop light to stop light. Some people just like to sound and look good. My recommendation would be a Comp Magnum 270H. It can be used with a stock converter and will sound mean with the lower compression. BUT expect it to come out of the hole like it's got square wheels. It will also appreciate the other bolt-ons you mentioned. At least it'll sound decent.

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Objects In Mirror Are LOSING

im bringing the heads home this weekend so ill post the casting numbers. ive got a set of 350 heads and a set of 305 heads. some people told me to use the 305 heads cause they would help compression, i think they said they were high output 305 heads.

the 305 heads will be better for 5500 and under but they will probrably give you over 10-1 compression then you can stick a nice cam in if you have the converter, do you have your converter?

I have done many things that you shouldn't do and i ran a 292H with a stock converter
350 flatop with 64cc heads it ran 8.20 with a 1.95 60' fun to drive 10mph on and i added the converter later. wouldnt break traction leaving the stoplight until half way across!
then it wouldn't stop spinning.

thanks for the help, im using a 2200 b&m torque master stall. ive got a bare 350 im building and im using a 305 for parts and i was wandering if the connecting rods will be interchangeable between the 305 and 350 they are close to the same year motor. one other question i have is are stock 350 pistons considered flat top?

[This message has been edited by daves 76 rs (edited April 07, 2005).]

i myself like a lopey engine.... some people like them some people think its ricer.. well same could be said for exhaust.. you can get an excelent flowing exhaust without the setting off car alarm sound... but most people like the loud mufflers... you can say the same thing with a gear drive(which i love the sound of) it takes alittle extra power to turn.. but man it sounds cool... some people hate them some love them... same for tires, ect i can keep going...

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1981coupe400ci:
i myself like a lopey engine.... some people like them some people think its ricer.. well same could be said for exhaust.. you can get an excelent flowing exhaust without the setting off car alarm sound... but most people like the loud mufflers... you can say the same thing with a gear drive(which i love the sound of) it takes alittle extra power to turn.. but man it sounds cool... some people hate them some love them... same for tires, ect i can keep going...

</font>

agreed!!

Dave, that cam will hit nicely with the 106 lsa! Should make a ton of low and midrange.

well, i made a trip to the local speed shop and here is what i got, the man said they are some of the best pistons for small block chevy. the are sealed power, i also got rings, frost plugs,and cam bearings. he also set me up with a cam that would match my combo. it's a .490 lift with 108 lobe seperation, he said it had a rough lopey idle and sounded great and would give real good low-end torque. it's a engine works 286h

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/609000-609999/609475_27_full.jpg

[This message has been edited by daves 76 rs (edited April 08, 2005).]

nice

dave 76, I've got the same pistons in my 355. I also used a set of H.O. 305 heads (58cc) which got my compression up to 10.25. With a CC268H cam it has a slight lope at idle, but what I really like (Mwilson called it when I first posted engine specs) is the snappy, torque response. I'm also using a 2200 stall converter.

Sounds like your package is going to come out nice. Should definitely have some bumpity bump to it. Keep us posted.

[This message has been edited by jeff81 (edited April 09, 2005).]

Oooh, even that .490 lift, 108 lsa cam will have a NICE crackle to it.

lucky me, i went to get the heads today and i cleaned them and dissambled them and got the numbers which are 14014416 and i looked them up on mortec.com and they said that they were 58cc heads. whats so funny is that my grandpaw has been using them for a door stop for his garage for years and i never thought twice about it. they seem to be in good condition.

[This message has been edited by daves 76 rs (edited April 10, 2005).]