Well my engine builder tried to explain to me the pump VS vac u pan, and i got lost in it mid stream? LOL I did get the just of it, Although bottom line, i don't have 1000.00 for the pump and all its parts, i do have a vac u pan on the car, but i never remove the exhaust off the car when i run it, and the tubes are welded into the collectors, not the headers, as they were ceramic coated before i realized i may need them? so i am not sure what harm running through the full exhaust has on the vac u pan. i an more than likely going to just install 2 more breathers in my valve covers and run 4 total.

In the old motor, i didnt have very good ring seal, because on the nitrous the oil dipstick tube would blow out of the block and spray oil all over the motor? A little blow by i suppose LOLOL.

For now i will run 4 breathers on the street and at the track when i run it on the motor. i will hook up the vac u pan when i use the nitrous and see what happens?

Any ideas or thoughts.?

Oh come on Sheldon,, with all your spending on that bigblock just to try and catch up with us little guys,, what's another grand!!! ;)

A vacuum pump / dry sump is something I'm looking into for the future also. The pump, fittings and all get's pricey in a hurry. There has been lots of chatter about the electric vacuum pumps that are on some of the recent GM cars. It may be something to really look at. 'SOME' would be better than none is the thought. I've seen a number of people talk about them,. but don't know anyone who has actually used one.

I wonder where you can buy an electric pump?

Found this on another site, i guess i dont need one all that bad.



The success level of a vacuum pump is all relative to the design of the ring package, health of the engine, application and how well the engine is sealed(to the outside world ie... gaskets/seals)

The big gains will be if you take advantage of the vacuum pumps ability by utilizing a very low tension ring package. In this case, the 30-40 horsepower claims out there, may be based on the fact that the ring package used, is just not capable of working well without a vacuum pump. They dyno it no pump, it's a sloppy mess in terms of ring seal, and then they stick the pump on it and it picks up 40 horsepower becuase now the rings are sealed. That's probably a more realistic viewpoint for the big hp claim folks.

But there is some hp in it regardless of the ring package, and with a nitrous engine it really improves oil control.

But that is a double edged sword. Now you have a condition where oil is being pulled from the cylinder, and that includes the pins. If you have a vacuum pump I always tell my guys to keep it unhooked unless you're making a pass... let the oil get up into the pins, let it soak the cylinders good... this has improved the pin bore wear DRAMATICALLY upon teardown, versus just leaving it connected all the time.

If this is a street deal, then put a regulator on it and keep the vacuum at just around a couple inchs.... that will be alright for street duty, and then when you get to the track crank the vacuum up to where you prefer to have it.

So to answer the question, do I recommend one? Always, but keep in mind what I'm suggesting for both a track car and street car.

Chris