73454
04-05-2005, 12:44:00 AM
Please re-archive this. For some reason the old version of this is in the Camaro Info/FAQ section, and the newer version is missing. Please delete the old version. It has some incorrect information in it.
To run a Gen VI factory big block in a 73-81 Camaro, take note of the following:
1. If you have to replace the flexplate, MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERATIN YOU GET A 168 TOOTH FLEXPLATE!
2. You HAVE TO run a melonized cam gear because they have a billet steel roller cam. Bronze is NOT a good idea. The melonized cam gear is GM #10456413. This gear has a .491" hole and will fit all large cap HEI distributors.
3. The factory recommended torque for the non-adjustable rocker arm studs is 45 pound feet. You won't find this information anywhere online, and you will be hard pressed to find someone who knows it! I called 4 dealerships before I got a definitive answer!
4. The alternator for a Mark IV can be used, but you must drill the alternator to accept the same size bolt as wthe head. You must also drill the mounting bracket.
5. The alternator, distributor and starter interchange (with noted exception #4 about the alternator, and noted exception #2 about the melonized gear).
6. The balancer is a piece unique to the year model you're working with. I do not know the cross-over, and the jerk who DOES sell the "proper" balancer with the stepped face like the Mark IV units won't give you a part number because he has the market cornered, and he's a big jerk. I could not verify that it was the correct balancer, so I didn't order from the big jerk. What I did instead -- AFTER finding out that the Mark IV balancer isn't properly balanced -- was take my dremel to the back of the pulley and take the centering hub lip off the pulley, slap it on the balancer with the 3 bolts, and called it a day. It has not come loose in over 5,000 miles. Much of that time has been spent above 3500 RPM.
7. To bypass the factory oil cooler, you must remove the bypass valve in the center hole of the oil filter pad (furthest from the crank) and remove the two oil cooler fittings and plug the two holes in the oil pan rail with 3/8" pipe plugs. If you need a new bypass valve they are GM # 25013759. Put them in place with a 9/16" socket and stake them in 3 places. If you do not run the cooler and do not bypass it as stated then you will have extremely low oil pressure and I will say, "I told ya so".
8. The spin-on adapter for the oil filter is available from GM, #3853870, and costs about $7.50. If you don't have a properly sized allen head wrench (Who has a 9/16" allen wrench? Not me!) then you can take a grade 8 bolt with a 9/16" head and use a pair of vise grips to grab the threads of the bolt and turn the threaded adapter into the block. Be sure to use some loc-tite.
9. Contrary to popular belief, the 6 quart truck pan DOES FIT the 73-81 frame as long as you use factory SMALL BLOCK MOUNTS. IT WILL NOT FIT IF YOU USE 70-72 BIG BLOCK MOUNTS! I have 1/2" of clearance in the tightest spot with this pan. You should beware that the pan does hang slightly below the crossmember, and this DOES leave you somewhat more vulnerable to bottoming out and bashing your oil pan if your car sits low. The advantages to the truck pan are as follows: you can run the factory windage tray, and you get more oil capacity. You 70-72 guys MAY be limited to using the 4 quart pan GM #12495360. I have not verified that the truck pan fits the 70-72 and I will make no guarantees. The cheapest place you will find the 4 quart pan online is www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) I got my 6 quart pan off eBay for $80 plus shipping and it included all the hardware, dipstick and gasket. Some guy sells them all the time. Just search for "502 oil pan".
10. Standard Mark IV intakes work just fine. I used a Performer 2-O. You need Felpro gasket #1212.
11. The standard small block shroud does work for a big block installation. You must install them in this order: Shroud, fan, radiator.
12. You WILL need an electric fuel pump if you have a factory block. The factory Gen VI does not have a pump boss.
13. The main and rod bearings are the same bearings from the beginning to the end of the 454's life. I.E. The bearings from a 75 will fit a 1999, etc.
14. If you are using a manual transmission, there is no hole for a factory clutch linkage on the side of the block. You will need to get a bracket from Scoggin Dickey, part number "SDCB", price $59.95. You will also need a Gen V/VI flywheel part number 14096987. When I checked the price of the flywheel it was $109.95.
In stock form these engines should be good for mid-high 13's easily.
The Dark Side beacons. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif
To run a Gen VI factory big block in a 73-81 Camaro, take note of the following:
1. If you have to replace the flexplate, MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERATIN YOU GET A 168 TOOTH FLEXPLATE!
2. You HAVE TO run a melonized cam gear because they have a billet steel roller cam. Bronze is NOT a good idea. The melonized cam gear is GM #10456413. This gear has a .491" hole and will fit all large cap HEI distributors.
3. The factory recommended torque for the non-adjustable rocker arm studs is 45 pound feet. You won't find this information anywhere online, and you will be hard pressed to find someone who knows it! I called 4 dealerships before I got a definitive answer!
4. The alternator for a Mark IV can be used, but you must drill the alternator to accept the same size bolt as wthe head. You must also drill the mounting bracket.
5. The alternator, distributor and starter interchange (with noted exception #4 about the alternator, and noted exception #2 about the melonized gear).
6. The balancer is a piece unique to the year model you're working with. I do not know the cross-over, and the jerk who DOES sell the "proper" balancer with the stepped face like the Mark IV units won't give you a part number because he has the market cornered, and he's a big jerk. I could not verify that it was the correct balancer, so I didn't order from the big jerk. What I did instead -- AFTER finding out that the Mark IV balancer isn't properly balanced -- was take my dremel to the back of the pulley and take the centering hub lip off the pulley, slap it on the balancer with the 3 bolts, and called it a day. It has not come loose in over 5,000 miles. Much of that time has been spent above 3500 RPM.
7. To bypass the factory oil cooler, you must remove the bypass valve in the center hole of the oil filter pad (furthest from the crank) and remove the two oil cooler fittings and plug the two holes in the oil pan rail with 3/8" pipe plugs. If you need a new bypass valve they are GM # 25013759. Put them in place with a 9/16" socket and stake them in 3 places. If you do not run the cooler and do not bypass it as stated then you will have extremely low oil pressure and I will say, "I told ya so".
8. The spin-on adapter for the oil filter is available from GM, #3853870, and costs about $7.50. If you don't have a properly sized allen head wrench (Who has a 9/16" allen wrench? Not me!) then you can take a grade 8 bolt with a 9/16" head and use a pair of vise grips to grab the threads of the bolt and turn the threaded adapter into the block. Be sure to use some loc-tite.
9. Contrary to popular belief, the 6 quart truck pan DOES FIT the 73-81 frame as long as you use factory SMALL BLOCK MOUNTS. IT WILL NOT FIT IF YOU USE 70-72 BIG BLOCK MOUNTS! I have 1/2" of clearance in the tightest spot with this pan. You should beware that the pan does hang slightly below the crossmember, and this DOES leave you somewhat more vulnerable to bottoming out and bashing your oil pan if your car sits low. The advantages to the truck pan are as follows: you can run the factory windage tray, and you get more oil capacity. You 70-72 guys MAY be limited to using the 4 quart pan GM #12495360. I have not verified that the truck pan fits the 70-72 and I will make no guarantees. The cheapest place you will find the 4 quart pan online is www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) I got my 6 quart pan off eBay for $80 plus shipping and it included all the hardware, dipstick and gasket. Some guy sells them all the time. Just search for "502 oil pan".
10. Standard Mark IV intakes work just fine. I used a Performer 2-O. You need Felpro gasket #1212.
11. The standard small block shroud does work for a big block installation. You must install them in this order: Shroud, fan, radiator.
12. You WILL need an electric fuel pump if you have a factory block. The factory Gen VI does not have a pump boss.
13. The main and rod bearings are the same bearings from the beginning to the end of the 454's life. I.E. The bearings from a 75 will fit a 1999, etc.
14. If you are using a manual transmission, there is no hole for a factory clutch linkage on the side of the block. You will need to get a bracket from Scoggin Dickey, part number "SDCB", price $59.95. You will also need a Gen V/VI flywheel part number 14096987. When I checked the price of the flywheel it was $109.95.
In stock form these engines should be good for mid-high 13's easily.
The Dark Side beacons. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif