View Full Version : Pro Comp Big Block Heads
02-13-2007, 07:30:15 AM
I'm building a 496 for one of my other projects, and have been looking for a pair of suitable heads for it. I have been looking on-line, and keep coming across these aluminum Pro Comp heads that a bunch of people on ebay are selling. Does anybody here have any experience with these heads? The price is right, $1175 a pair assembled. The specs are decent, too. 320cfm intake ports, 2.25/1.88 valves, good springs, pressure castings. I really want the AFR 320, but the price tag of $2250 is harder to come by than the $1175for the Pro Comps. You get what you pay for, but are the Pro Comps decent?
02-13-2007, 07:43:48 AM
They're cheap Chinese knock-offs of Pro Topline heads. Decks are thin and it's a fair copy at best. Runner walls are so thin that the boss for the spring pads extends into the port. Helicoils for rocker studs penetrate the intake port about 1/4". These weigh 6 - 7 lbs less than the lightest comparable head - saving weight for shipping plus less material cost. Ports are way too short at the port opening and it's questionable as to whether there's enough material to even gasket match 'em. Valve seats are all over the place. You'll spend more making this work than a good set will cost you. I've had 'em on a bench and compared 'em to Dart, Brodix and Pro Topline. They're cheap junk and that's a fact, not just my opinion.
02-13-2007, 09:53:51 AM
I actually spoke with one of the sales reps this past Saturday...They will still need to be worked once you buy them..The valves wont seat right right out the box...They only sell bare heads as well...He stated they are made in and from Austrailia..Hmmmmm......From what my engine builder said, they are decent heads but do need to be worked...Like you said, you get what you pay for...
02-13-2007, 10:50:12 AM
Based on what I've read, MyBoToy hit it on the head. If you want more information, jump over www.chevelles.com and do a search on the Procomp heads. People have used them, but not really saved in money once they get them to a useable point.
02-13-2007, 06:11:58 PM
I was looking at these too and the price is what got me.I will pay the price for a good set now,just have to save a little longer.Glad to see someone asked the question.
02-14-2007, 07:25:56 AM
That is good information to know. It looks like I'll have to save up a little more and get some Darts, Brodix, or AFRs. Nothing pisses me off more than spending money on a brand new part and then spending a bunch more just getting it to work.
02-14-2007, 09:32:16 AM
The shop I frequent has pretty much used 'em all. They like Brodix, they're more heavy duty with thicker decks, etc. They're also the only one that these guys will bolt on out of the box - they have very high quality valve jobs, good springs, valves, etc. and are set up dead-on to specs. If you're not planning on going all-out, any of the ones you listed are fine. Don't forget the original Pro Topline/RHS stuff. They're very good heads for the street if you can get 'em at a good price. I see 'em from time to time bare at about $1250, they're definitely worth that. You'll know they're not the counterfeit junk because they'll have either Pro Topline or RHC cast into them in a couple of spots - plus you'll see the quality.
02-14-2007, 12:10:02 PM
I can also assure you if you go with a AFR head, it will bolt on and go. No work needed. I put a 325CC head on my 496 without any problems at all, except for the tire shredding problem. :p
Contact Mike Lewis about some AFR's or Brodix heads. He can get you better deal than you stated originally. His email is firstname.lastname@example.org You can find over at the Chevelle board. Good guy to deal with and he didn't steer me wrong with my build.
02-14-2007, 03:04:13 PM
I know they make great heads, but I've personally known several folks that have had problems with AFR valvetrain geometry requiring a bit of fitting. I understand most of it has been addressed but the most recent was only about a month ago, hopefully they're getting the rest of those problems ironed out. I've never seen or heard of a geometry problem with Brodix heads and I've seen tons of 'em bolted on.
02-17-2007, 02:07:05 AM
I had a write up in the bs section I think it was and it was locked out by the modderater because i used a bad word. I had asked him to delete the word and repost it but he didnt. Ill make a long story short. Ive seen their socalled sales rep, he was a total looser! Unfreindly ignorant sob. If I was the PC owner I would have let him go on the spot!!!! Their booth was two tables combined with two cylinerhead a distributor, some rockers and rocker covers. Two table equalling about 20 feet or so. With only those items no paper work. nothing> this was at a show!!! Yea I buying from that company. When pigs fly. The cylinder heads were the worst chuck of alu. I had seen in quite some time. it looked real pourse. Thin thin casting. low quality. their rockers were nice from far, far from nice. the locking nut were blackish in color but not of the forged type. They were as light as a quarter and were definatly cast. Probably pull the threads with 100lbs of seat pressure. I wouldnt trust their dizzy as far as I can spit either. I would sugest the heads as a boat anchor but even then they will eithier float or rot in the water. If you have the money to burn I would really suggest donating it to me for my bbc build
02-17-2007, 09:05:48 AM
Dang, Jester, why don't you go ahead and drop the sugar coating and let us know how you really feel?
Anything that I put in or on my engine that could cause catastrophic failure gets the best I can afford. Anybody ever torn an engine down that dropped a valve at 7K? IF you get to keep the carb, you're doing pretty good. A valve head ricochets from cylinder to cylinder and it's very rare when every hole isn't visited by a single piece of shrapnel - the carnage generally slows considerably when a valve head finally gets buried into a cylinder head by the piston. Point is, rods, pistons, roller lifters and cylinder heads are all pieces that can cause you to lose an entire engine.
I'm fortunate enough to live near a top-notch shop and have watched assembly, dyno runs and post-mortems of blown engines, plus I've discussed parts selection at length with not only the owner but all the guys that worked there. Buy the very best you can afford and have spot-on machine work done and you'll have done everything you can to make sure your engine will survive. Routine maintenance is needed on solids - flat or rollers - to keep tabs on what's happening with the valvetrain.
By buying this cheap Chinese junk, you're hurting the businesses that spend time and money on R&D. Once they can't compete with these counterfeiters, we'll all lose since that crap is all that will be available.
Eagle has gone thru the growing pains and seems to have done pretty good with getting their problems straightened out as has Scat with the stuff they get from overseas. That said, their stuff was head and shoulders above this crap. Count on the fact that the makers of these crappy cylinder heads don't care about performance, they're in the game for $ and nothing else and they don't care whose engine blows up with their junk on it, they have your money. Too bad.
02-17-2007, 12:16:47 PM
I agree. Imagine the crappy feeling that you would get when just realized that the money you saved buying overseas parts just cost you an entire motor when their inferior quality became evident at 6500 rpm. There usually isn't much worth saving when they let go at that rpm......
02-18-2007, 10:10:28 PM
I was in a way tricked into buying my Procomp heads. I was told they were RHS. With all the crap going on at the time with Pro Topline and RHS i believed the guy i bought the heads from. I should have researched better. In the end it cost me a cam and lifters, thank god it didnt harm my bottom end. Seat heights were different from cylinder to cylinder. Also had to port match the intake to heads heavily. They work good NOW. I would not buy them again.
Jester, where did you see this sales rep?
02-18-2007, 11:54:01 PM
A few weeks ago, at the detroit indoor swapmeet.
I couldnt believe all the crap and I mean crap people were trying to sell.
I wish I could have taken a picture of their booth. Words cant describe it.
Compcams showed up, so I thought while walking to the event that it would have been the cats @ss, but no. comp had a 18 wheeler so I thought deals would await. All they had was a few boothes with parts and lots of cataluges.
No parts for sale, shame. The best was used parts selling for more than new.
02-20-2007, 12:29:05 PM
For all you guys that have experience with Brodix heads, what's the deal with their Race Rite versions? I'm "thinking" about the 270cc Ovals for a BBC in the future. Any word on those? Do they flow well? Is anyone running them, if so how fast?
02-20-2007, 02:17:54 PM
Head over to www.chevelles.com and look for a post by "Wolfplace", then message him. That's Mike Lewis, a race & hot street engine builder who happens to be a Brodix dealer. He probably has more hard facts, dyno pulls, etc. about the RaceRites than anybody. He'll save you some coin on the heads, too.