I'm pulling the heads off the block tonight (hopefully) and was wondering if there is anything I need to watch out for in regards to the rods and lifters.

Also, will I be able to tell what type of pistons were installed during the rebuild? Thanks.

Make sure you get ALL the head bolts off.

Drain coolant, and loosen rocker arms so that you can remove the pushrods. You don't want coolant or pushrods entering the bottom end of your motor.

As far as pistons go, you'll be able to tell if they are 1)Dish, 2)Pop-up, or 3) Notched. You also might find a marking that tells you if they are oversized (ie:.030, .040, etc). May be more difficult to determine type of construction, (forged, cast,etc.) Have fun!! Watch those fingers and toes! http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/redface.gif

[This message has been edited by jeff81 (edited March 18, 2005).]

What does it mean then when one says 'flat top' pistons?

They are flat across with no "dish" , "pop-ups", or "notches".

Dont drop it on your foot!

Put some absorbant rags in the valley before you pull them and if some coolant gets in the cylinders, wipe it out as best you can including around the sides of the pistons.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Mwilson:
Dont drop it on your foot!</font>

Yes! Don't do that one. 45 lbs. dropped from 3-4 feet will definitely make you give it up for the rest of the night http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

Unscrew both of the block's drain plugs that are down by the motor mounts.

Yes, DON'T drop it!!

pdq67

Boy I had a helluva time getting the drivers side drain plug out. I'm guessing the plugs were aluminum, because the heads were extremely soft. The drivers side was already worn a little bit, and when i started to bite down on it, it wore even worse. I ended up hammering a 13mm on there and giving it a sharp blow with the breaker bar. Finally broke it loose! Anyway, I'll end up replacing both plugs before this is over.

Head removal was much simpler than I expected. Don't know why i expected it to be hard; just have never done this before. I've posted a pic of the piston so you guys could identify what type it is. I think I'm going to end up pulling the whole block out in order to clean and paint it. No sense in doing a half-assed job since I've already come this far.

http://jdenton.homeunix.com/camaro/3-19-05/DSCF0180.JPG.jpg

http://jdenton.homeunix.com/camaro/3-19-05/DSCF0185.JPG.jpg

http://jdenton.homeunix.com/camaro/3-19-05/DSCF0188.JPG.jpg

http://jdenton.homeunix.com/camaro/3-19-05/DSCF0184.JPG.jpg

And there's me enjoying my afternoon with Stella and a Miller High-Life. I've got all the bolts in ziploc baggies in an attempt to be able to put it all back together when I'm done. Let's hope it works.

Looks like you have the dished pistons.

They are soft steel pipe plugs AND round off/strip pretty easy, imho..... Get new ones and put some Moly Anti-Sieze on them..

You may have an 8.5 to 1 CR. motor?? Depending on your head cc size? Post their casting numbers so we can tell you.

And I would use a set of either Fel-pro #1094, .015", (pricey little jewels tho), or Mr. Gasket about .018" to .020" thick shim headgaskets, (a lot cheaper..), to gain a little bit more CR. when I put it back together.

Or go with a set of W/P's 67 cc big valve S/R Torquer heads

pdq67

[This message has been edited by pdq67 (edited March 22, 2005).]

With my budget I may have to go with a set of 487X heads. Are they decent and better than the 882? The Vortec hookup didn't pan out. Anything is better than what I had on it to begin with.

I think the 487 and 882 are about equal?

I'd use some thin steel gaskets to get a little more CR when you reassemble with those soup bowls and open chamber heads.

Go with the 487 heads, definitely, over the 882s. Do you have any book you're working out of, since you said you hadn't done this before? I ask, because there are a few minor things that really should be done before reassembly. Cleaning ALL the threads on the head bolts, and applying sealer to the threads before installing them. Those two are off the top of my head, anyone else think of anything?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by pdq67:
They are soft steel pipe plugs AND round off/strip pretty easy, imho..... Get new ones and put some Moly Anti-Sieze on them..

You may have an 8.5 to 1 CR. motor?? Depending on your head cc size? Post their casting numbers so we can tell you.

And I would use a set of either Fel-pro #1094, .015", (pricey little jewels tho), or Mr. Gasket about .018" to .020" thick shim headgaskets, (a lot cheaper..), to gain a little bit more CR. when I put it back together.

Or go with a set of W/P's 67 cc big valve S/R Torquer heads

pdq67

[This message has been edited by pdq67 (edited March 22, 2005).]</font>Good point about the head gaskets, but...Those look like stock type pistons. I am just going to assume that the block hasn't been decked before. Using a shim gasket would just maintain the compression, or bring it back to stock. FWIW, im a fan of the #1094 gasket, they are much more forgiving than people give them credit for, and are a quality part (better be for $20 a pop).


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350: 10:1/Sportsman II/XE274/performer RPM intake/eddy 750/1 5/8 headers/11" 2500 stall/TH-350/ 3.73 locker

I was told by the previous owner that the cylinders had been bored .030 over, but there's no telling what's been done now that I've really gotten into the car.

And no, I'm not working out of a book. Isn't that what this site is for? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif Any recommendations for a book that I could find at Hastings or something? No local bookstores in my immediate area.

In your engine pic I didn't see ".030" stamped into the top of the piston. Makes you wonder....

Hate to think anyone bored it and didn't go flat top.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by busterswt:
I was told by the previous owner that the cylinders had been bored .030 over, but there's no telling what's been done now that I've really gotten into the car.

And no, I'm not working out of a book. Isn't that what this site is for? http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif Any recommendations for a book that I could find at Hastings or something? No local bookstores in my immediate area.</font>

"How To Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy" by David Vizard is a good one, pretty common find I'd think.

By all means if you can use a set of 487X heads then go for it. They are less prone to cracking and the ports are better.

After cleaning off some of the carbon on the piston head I found the numbers '040' stamped into each of them.

That means she's been bored out 0.040 inches. Like Mwilson said, seems wierd that someone would bore it out and reinstall stock type dish pistons....

[This message has been edited by jeff81 (edited March 23, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by busterswt:
After cleaning off some of the carbon on the piston head I found the numbers '040' stamped into each of them. </font>

Make sure you vacuum (yes, vacuum) all that carbon you scrape off out of those cylinder bores before reassembly.

i use the Felpro #7733sh-1 head gaskets with copper adhesive, they are like 8 bux a piece and are as thin as a 1094. I cant remember what the thickness is exactly but it was the first tip i picked up on this website.

If you really want to pump up the compression you can have the heads shaved or even angle milled. Just make sure to take the intake with you to the machine shop.

To bad you dont know where to find free/ cheap 64cc chamber heads!

I'll talk to a guy I know who might know where i can find some, if he doesn't have them himself. He offered me a pair of 487X heads for $100. Don't know at this time what sort of work needs to be done to them. But those are what, 75/76cc? Maybe I should consider just buying a set of new vortec heads.

The 487s are/were referred to as an "intermediate" performance head of the early Seventies. Some came with 1.94 intake/1.50 exhaust valves, some with 2.02s and 1.60s. Depending on which literature you read, they had either 72cc chambers or 74cc chambers. Like you said, depends on what all needs to be done to them.

look for deals on a set of vortecs it will be worth it. keep an eye on ebay n if your lucky like me u might find someone on here selling them. goodluck
nick

There's a set going for $275 with a $325 BIN. Says less than 30k on the motor. He's pretty local to me (Waco) so I'm gonna see if we can't work something out.

Honestly i wouldn't pay $100 for open chamber heads, There is a guy up the road from me with 200cc pro toplines 64cc complete for $300, certainly you can find some decent closed chamber heads, you'll be glad you did the first time you hit the gas.

mwilson: YGM