My Holley electric fuel pump is shot, the drag strip confirmed that today.

I may actually replace the whole fuel system if it looks like it’s not up to it, as my final plan is to have maybe 400 hp.

So I'm wondering who makes the most reliable electric fuel pump to replace my current one?

I spent some big money and bought an SX fuel system. Barry Grant makes a great product. Stay away from Holley stuff. Just my Opinion, way better fuel pumps out there.

With a mild 350 you shouldn't need a whole lot of fuel. I'm running a GMPP 7-8psi electrical (it's a rebadged arter pump) that I've had in the car since 1996- nearly 50k miles on it.

I think this is the one-
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRT%2DP4594&N=700+400415+307759+115&autoview=sku

the number #1 cause of electric fuel pump failures is inproper wiring for power to the pump . you really need to run a relay inline to power the pump and make sure you do not under size the wiring for the pump .to small of gauge wires will cause resistance in the wiring causing your pump motor to burn up

I've been running a Mallory 140 for 10 years now, it has never left me on the side of the road. My car sits most of the time. So, lately it will get stuck, and I have to bang on the pump to free it up. Not sure if it gets gummed up from sitting or maybe its time to replace it. Other then that, I will replace it with another Mallory pump when the time comes.

My car has a ran a Holley Blue for the past 6 years with no problems.

the number #1 cause of electric fuel pump failures is inproper wiring for power to the pump . you really need to run a relay inline to power the pump and make sure you do not under size the wiring for the pump .to small of gauge wires will cause resistance in the wiring causing your pump motor to burn up

Thats good to know, because I'm definatly going to need to rewire the pump. As currently the fuel pump is in the engine bay and it should be back by the gas tank.

Have heard nothing but bad words about Holley pumps and nothing but good words about BG and Mallory pumps. I have a Carter that we're going to run unless I can come up with the money for a Mallory.

maybe consider a return style regulator and fuel line routing setup. keeps the pump only semi-loaded at idle speeds,, and increases pump life. the deadhead regulator design seems to be a slight bit harder on electric pumps. return style works very well for the dealerships.

+1 with muscl car. proper wiring with relays. seems to be the number 1 killer with not enough juice to the pump.

Actually, it's heat that kills them (as with all electrical devices). But if you're not getting adequate juice to the pump it will overheat. Voltage drops, amperage goes up = heat. If it's not already obvious, don't mount them over the exhaust- not only will they have a short life, your whole car might have a short life if it starts leaking near a hot exhaust component.

Agreed on the return-style regulator. Judging just by how much quieter they run with a return you can tell they're under less strain. Plus I've found return style regulators do a better job keeping pressure where it should be under low-load situations like idling and cruising around at low speeds. No "pressure creep" like you sometimes get with dead-head regulators.

Excuse my ignorance but what exactly are return-style regulators. I would assume they would run a return line instead of just restricting flow. Is that correct?

And I would also expect that they are the expensive regulators I've been seeing in parts catalogs.

Also for a 400 hp SBC how many GPH do I need?
Will that change if later I want to hit it with a 200 shot of nitrous?

We are going to run a return fuel system on our 87 S10 Drag truck. Someone here steered me to the Barry Grant web site. I took the BG picture and modified it to the parts that I can afford to run. Here is a picture of it and the link to it is on the bottom of the picture:


http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/87%20S10%20Drag%20Truck/FuelSupplyRetrunSystem-2.jpg


http://www.barrygrant.com/bgfuel/default.aspx?page=85

Are the stock gas tanks fitted with a place to plug in a return?

Are the stock gas tanks fitted with a place to plug in a return?

if you were to sump your gas tank then you would run a new 3/8th or 1/2 inch fuel line to the regulator .then for your return line use the stock fuel line as your return

We are going to run a return fuel system on our 87 S10 Drag truck. Someone here steered me to the Barry Grant web site. I took the BG picture and modified it to the parts that I can afford to run. Here is a picture of it and the link to it is on the bottom of the picture:


http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/87%20S10%20Drag%20Truck/FuelSupplyRetrunSystem-2.jpg


http://www.barrygrant.com/bgfuel/default.aspx?page=85



Your regulator is not regulating pressure to the carb in your modified drawing?

Your regulator is not regulating pressure to the carb in your modified drawing?That's a return regulation style setup. With the regulator where it is, the pump will build pressure all the way to the carb. Set the regulator so that it starts dumping fuel back to the tank when pressure along the "supply header" (the line at the carb) gets to setpoint (e.g. 6psi).

The advantage to this setup is that the pump is always fully loaded, delivering fuel to the carb, to back to the tank.

The disadvantage is fuel heating due to continuous circulation, both due to heat from pumping action, and circulating it through the hot engine compartment. Additionally, depending on how you dump the return, it can create a lot more fuel vapor in the tank.

I did a slightly modified version of this setup once, where I used a restrictor on the return line, to slow down the max flow along the return. I still got supply pressure stability, but less fumes in the tank. I wouldn't worry about this too much if it's just a drag car, but it can be useful if you intend to run this car on the street.

Another Holley blue running for years in a dead headed situation. 6 maybe 7 years on one pump. I run 2... 1 for engine 1 for bottle. NO issues.