I have been studying the site and trying to figure out which way I want to go. I am torn between building the 383 stroker or changing to vortec heads. I am driving a stock 77 LT camaro. I have been the owner for a whopping month. It is a daily driver that will never see the track. All I want is the ability to be able to out run my buddies 2006 Mustang GT on a reasonable budget ($1200-$2500). All comments appreciated.

A stroker won't get you anywhere without good heads. Good heads on your shortblock will get you farther than your heads on a built shortblock assuming yours is all stock. If your on a budget I would find some used Vortec heads and a good carb and intake.

Here is Summits prices. These are what have been refered to as good heads (also priced reasonably) in previous post.
Edelbrock Performer RPM Cylinder Heads
Cylinder Head, Performer RPM, Aluminum, Assembled, 64cc Chamber, 170cc Intake Runner, Chevy, 302/ 327/ 350/ 40...
Today $509.50

GM Performance Parts Vortec Cylinder Heads
Cylinder Head, Vortec, Cast Iron, Assembled, 64cc Chamber, 170cc Intake Runner, Chevy, Small Block, Each
Today $379.95

It seems like at those prices it would be cheaper to buy a used engine out of a late model (2000 and later) GM truck or SUV. And if that is the case. I keep wondering why not implant the entire long block.

Scat or Eagle cast crank, SIR rods, hypereutectic reverse dome pistons and a set of Vortec heads. You should be able to do that within your budget, IMHO

No - he's not getting a stroker/rebuild done for $2500, just ain't happening.

Do a topend upgrade:
Heads
Cam
Intake Manifold
Headers

That will exhaust your $2500 budget and probably get you into the 350-400HP.

Tell me what rearend and tranny are you running and I can make more specific reccomendations.

Are we talking about a stock 96 GT? If so, you shouldn't be too far behind right now! Those things weren't very fast in the mid 90s.

Emissions era motors like you've got in your 77 had 3 main things that really held them back.... compression (very low 8s), cam (super wimpy emissions cam) and restrictive exhaust. The heads are a restriction to making power but I used to do upgrades to them without touching the heads and get them deep in the 14s. All I did was put on a set of headers and dual exhaust (that was the majority of the budget), shove in a Crane 266 Energizer cam in place of the stock one, replace the stock dished pistons with flattops and use an aftermarket aluminum 4bbl intake (Edlebrock Performer or similar) and dropped the QJet back on top (with some performance tuning).

If Vortec heads had been in existance back when I was doing stuff like this I would definitely have used them.

If I had to do it all over again today from a stock 77 350 here's what I'd do to get the most from it:

1. Headers and dual exhaust. Still a good bang-for-the-buck mod. Can't get air into the engine if you can't get it back out. It will STILL be the most expensive part of the upgrades.

2. Comp XE256 cam. Probably a better cam than the old Crane one I used back in the day.

3. Vortec heads. Better flow plus they'll get your compression up closer to 9:1 with the stock dished pistons.

4. Matching Vortec dual plane intake (Edelbrock Performer Vortec or similar).

The cam is the only thing you would need to dig into the engine for. Best to do it at the same time as the heads and intake since you'll need to have access to the lifters to change the cam anyway. I'm sure those mods would wake up an old emissions motor even better than what I used to do years ago. And it'll still be daily-drivable and get decent fuel mileage.

All this assumes the bottom end of your motor is in good condition. If it's not you will be putting lipstick on a pig becuase it'll quickly wear out/blow up when you finally start making some real power with it.

I'd forget about the stroker/383 idea for a number of reasons starting with the fact that they're not easy for a novice and ending with the fact that you don't need 383 cubes to whip a little Mustang GT's ass.

Thanks for the info thus far. I just got her running last weekend due to a bad alternator, wires and cap. This weekend I am planning on pulling the valve covers for an inspection, as well as check the compression. Oil pressure is good. Oil and water are where they are suppose to be and not sharing spaces with one another :) .Shortly after that I plan on upgrading. Just wanted to know which way to go prior to commencing.

Still wondering about buying the vortec engine from a late model (2000 or later) vehicle and using the entire set up minus intake manifold (carbureted).

Something to keep in mind is that the "Vortec" engines of 2000 and later are not the typical small block and will require significant modifications. They are LS1 engines, aka Gen III.
Gen I or Gen II will fit right into your car. The Vortec heads that everyone talks about are for the Gen I engines, like the one currently in your car. These heads were originally used on the 1996 L31 350 truck engines, but the design and the Vortec name go back to the early 90s (IIRC) Vortec 4.3L V6 engines.

GetMore that was informative. Until my next novice question. Have a good day gentleman.

412dab,
If you need any local help I do performance engine and trans work just north of the DFW area.

Send me your contact info.

2000 and later aren't Vortec engines, they're the LS series. If you can find a core cheap, there's no reason at all you can't get it done for $2500. I built one for my kid's truck last year and we came in under $2500 after buying the core. With cast stroker cranks less than $200, new rods about the same and hypereutectic reverse dome pistons at around $250, you can run all new stuff in that engine along with OEM hydraulic roller lifters, a $150 ebay cam, $200 or less for an intake.