if I accidentally hit my injectors with too much psi is this the same as flooding? 28lb/50psi units, edelbrock pro flo. Hit it with at least 65 psi. Threads on 2 plugs looked wet or at least the anti seize looked runny.
I have another post running in high performance sections about regulators and adjusting them.
thanks,
Erik

The square root of the new pressure over the old pressure times the old flow rate gives you the fueling increase. So they flowed like 32 lb injectors.

Now that's not what I think happened. Injectors are rated at to 43 lbs and I THINK, but can't remember, that's about where the Pro Flo stock reg is set at.

So assuming those injectors are rated like 99.9% of the others out there the 28 lb injectors flowed closer to 34.5 lb injectors, over 20% richer.

The reg should be adjusted to 40-45 PSI. If you need to richen it up throughout the mapping do it in the global setting parameters in your tuning software.

thanks rick, I'm still messing around with that piston pump/reg setup from racepumps so I am only running it off whatever tune is in the chip. When I test fired this thing off the electric pump I could do it back to back with no problem so I'm basically reading this as dumping too much fuel/pressure via the FPR (have the edelbrock setup blocked off at the outlet) by subsequently increasing the injector rate. Would this be correct?
I'm also open header right now and hearing pops in the collector which wasn't happening so much with the electric pump test runs.
I got the FPR ballpark set a few minutes ago with direction from howard, it fired right away, ran but I got scared trying to do it myself watching the gauge creep around on the other side and trying to fine tune the regulator on the passenger side..so shut it off and backed the reg down a bit. Now its hard to start (won't) and I'm thinking I've got everything soaked in fuel. Plug ends are wet except for the electrode. Samething happened yesterday. I was shooting for 50 psi but think I should back it to its lowest setting which is 45psi.
The pressure holds in the rails overnight so I'm pretty sure there are no leaks.

Yup, to question 1.

Easy to foul the plugs with EFI in situations like this. To restart you may get it going by holding the pedal to the floor to invoke the clear flood programming.

Hope you get things squared away. The other issue you will have a need to tune around is the original FPR setup is vacuum referenced. This system you have won't be. So, as with all appications, in general, you'll have a lot of tuning to do. Higher vac, like at idle, pulls fuel pressure. Low vac ramps closer to wide open fuel presssure. Ding, eh?

What I would suggest, to save you a ton of hassle is to get the thing started and just keep it running until it's fully warmed up, 180 to 200 degree water temp. Play with the FP as you need to so it doesn't get away from you. Then go into your idle parameters and dial in the idle fueling to get the idle mix leaned out based on your cal box lights. Then reverify flowing FP. Make sure that stays somewhat consistent. You also want to verify that the TPS is set correctly to see idle conditions and the timing default setting is correct.

After you do all that then on the next startup if the FP is stable AND it is still rich, or lean, you can start to make some general corrections to the warm up.

:dumper:

I was trying to avoid ton's of $$ in a tank and lines. Thanks for the help, I think I'll chase this around a little more...my next choice will be just doing the 3rd gen pump into the tank. Dooh!

I just looked and I do have a vacuum reference port. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed that this may work without too much of a headache.... did I just say that? :confused:

It's not an issue per say without the vac ref just that the base calibration will be whack compared to what the engine will want. There is plenty of adjustment with the Pro Flo to make it work.

I am very interested in how it all turns out with that pump as it's a neat idea. Hope it starts to go smoother for you. Rest assured though you are not the first one to foul the sheet out of a set of plugs getting a new EFI setup going.

I'm up and running! Let it run for a while, got the temps up and then shut it down. Did 3 hot starts after that.
I noted the headers went red on the 3rd and near the end of the 2nd and definitely the 3rd it sounded like it was breaking up a little when running the rpm up. I know and need to start into my tuning to add fuel but I'm wondering if my initial FPR setting is too low. At idle (idle being 1200 down to 900 rpm, I backed the throttle stop off each consecutive start) it would quickly bounce between 44-48psi. Under load, up to maybe 3000 rpm the gauge would peg solid at 41psi. The reg is vacuum referenced. I know this should be pretty basic with rpm load and vacuum, I'm having trouble putting it all together. I'm thinking since its vacuum referenced, it should reduce load at idle so I should increase the psi and see it on the under load side.
I will say Howard's, of racepumps.com, support was awesome, I don't know who else is going to answer emails on a Saturday night or Sunday morning (except the guys on nastyz28!)

...I also need to read my manual...and start doing the things rick has pointed out to me a few posts above. thanks rick!

What is under load? Only if the manifold vacuum is lower than at idle will it be "at load". You can have it in drive, hold the brake and load up against the converter and it won't "show load".

Simply note the pressure at idle with the vac line connected then pinch it off to see what the pressure does with no vac against the reg. If you have low vacuum due to a big cam the pressure can fluctuate at idle. That can cause some issues at idle. If the pressure is stable without the vac ref line I might consider leaving it vented to atmosphere if you have problems getting a clean idle.

Next step would be to verify the timing table under idle conditions to make sure the base is setup correctly. Read through the manual to see how to insure you have the correct offset programmed in and then I'd set the timing in the mapping to around 15 to 17 at idle.

Also, in case you have not done it, make sure the TPS is set correctly to see idle conditions.

thanks, rick, I'm going to dive into the manual soon. Can I tune this with open headers? I'm planning on trailering the car to a muffler shop - need to get the exhaust finished up. I would think the open headers would mess with the AFR.

You can certainly get it to run enough to get it on the trailer but you are correct, the readout on the cal box may not be correct. Get it to idle clean, take throttle and get it on the trailer. I'd not worry about much more than that and verifying the base timing and TPS.

How project going,did you get the pressure regulated and the car going?Also is the track in angleton still open and where do you race at.

Haven't been to angleton. I went once a year ago to houston raceway and promptly had the washers on the ubolts on the axle fold. Fortunately, the rear end shifted only enough to shave the passenger tire. I took that as a time to do some upgrades...my car was being set up more for autocross anyway with a stiff suspension. Now I just want it to leave the garage by march and as soon as I figure out what to do for a fuel system, it will.
I was having some pretty good results getting the car to start but I switched chips today and haven't been able to keep it running. I think I may still go to the 3rd gen intank pump and some efi hose feeding into the original hardline. I want to drive this car a lot and it just seems like the racepump might be better suited to a race car. I'd rather turn the key and have the pressure come up instead. Not having to deal with sorting out the racepump would allow me to spend time on learning to tune and take the pump variable out of my feeble knowledge