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View Full Version : Changing valve springs - w/ out removing heads


EricsZ28
02-01-2007, 10:38:44 AM
How is this done? I've never changed valve springs before - on or off the engine. Comp recommended that I swap out the springs on my Edelbrock RPM heads for cam break-in...

I have an air compressor that I can use to keep the valve up. That's about all I know.

I'm curiuos as to what tools I will need & what the process is going to look like.

rindoze
02-01-2007, 11:11:26 AM
The way I know to do this is to start by taking out the spark plugs then take long strands of something like nylon chord and feed it through the spark plug hole until the cyinder is full. Then rotate the engine to put that cylinder at TDC or as much as you can go. This will keep the valve closed and from falling into the cylinder. Then you need those top style valve spring compressors to compress the springs and remove the keepers. Just make sure you leave a good bit of chord hanging out the spark plug hole so you can pull it back out after your done.

hardline_42
02-01-2007, 11:25:43 AM
Big Mouse, you can buy a tool from summit that screws into the spark plug hole and use it with your compressor to keep the valve up. If you do want to stuff something into the cylinder instead, I would use and old spark plug cable. Don't use any kind of braided material tha could possibly leave fibers in the chambers. Besides that, rindoze's explanation is spot on.

TooLateVTEC
02-01-2007, 11:28:57 AM
Just remember before you go at them,hit the retainers with a hammer lightly to break them loose...just trying to crank down on the handle sometimes wont break them loose from the valve.

Its not really hard,just time consuming.

I take that back,it'll be really hard on a BB car w/ A/C!! :eek:

EricsZ28
02-01-2007, 11:39:50 AM
So, I'll need a spring compressor like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D906784&autoview=sku

And, since I already have this, I can use something like this to keep air in the cylinders (plan b is the old spark plug cable - cool trick):

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D62385&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I compress the spring, tap the retainer with a hammer and then remove the retainer. I then ease up on the spring compressor & remove the spring.

Is it that easy?

Marv D
02-01-2007, 01:30:00 PM
Here's the problem with the compressed air. Where is the piston going to be???????????

That's right. It's going to be forced to the bottom of the bore by the air pressure. Now what happens 'IF" you should loose air pressure for any reason while the spring and retainer is off????????? (and trust me, there is 100 ways you could loose air presure). Kerplunk,, the valve drops into the cylinder. :(

Use the old sparkplug cable,, it's a million times safer. With the piston at the top of the bore, there is no where for the valve to go!

BTW, You want to rap on the retainer just enough to break the tight wedge of the locks in the retainer BEFORE you begin to compress the spring.

Doug Jaynes
02-01-2007, 03:32:10 PM
Nylon rope works fine also.

TooLateVTEC
02-01-2007, 04:30:38 PM
So, I'll need a spring compressor like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D906784&autoview=sku

And, since I already have this, I can use something like this to keep air in the cylinders (plan b is the old spark plug cable - cool trick):

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D62385&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I compress the spring, tap the retainer with a hammer and then remove the retainer. I then ease up on the spring compressor & remove the spring.

Is it that easy?

Tool looks good,and thats the same thing I use to charge air into the cylinder...same thing used for a compression test.

Hit the retainer BEFORE compressing the spring...and if you do it after the air is hooked up it will make a cool THUUMP sound when the valve opens just slightly haha.

A nice thing to use to get the keepers off the valve stem is a magnet,the stronger the better. It also keeps you from dropping them into placed they shouldnt go b/c thats where they ALWAYS seem to end up.

Good luck man!

retorq
02-01-2007, 06:27:01 PM
I've also done the 'rope trick' n my Nissan when it ate the timing belt. Worked perfetly. I wouldn't worry about little fibers dropping off, the first combustion that takes place in that bore will take care of them. :D

a73camaro
02-01-2007, 11:03:25 PM
Here's the problem with the compressed air. Where is the piston going to be???????????...

Get the piston on TDC and it will stay there, done that dozens of times
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CNC BLOCKS
02-02-2007, 12:15:48 AM
We change a lot valve springs on the circle track engines we build during the season and on the dyno when we are breaking in flat tappet cams and we never had to use rope or air as we put the engine in TDC on compression stroke break he retainer loose use our valve spring compression tool as we have found the valve seals will hold the valve spring from going down.

So far this works for our shop and smoe of the other shops we do bussiness with as well.

a73camaro
02-07-2007, 11:31:06 AM
^^^ Just be certain that there are these seals

http://allproducts.com/manufacture6/seagull/17-valve_seal_benz.jpg

instead of the o-rings that seat against the valve spring retainer.
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SpeedAddict02
02-07-2007, 10:28:53 PM
Ditto CNC