I am a newb. on here and not a big guru in engines. I am trying to learn everything about what I am going to do. I have a hobby stock car that I race in IMCA, and have a 350 small block, .040 pistons, .10 crank and 455 RV cam. I have obtained a new motor which I believe is a 79 model, that was running in a truck that has 333882 heads, and has been bored over .080. The crank is .030 over and the cam I believe is stock. I want to build the motor for an extra but I don't know about the bore. I have a 2 speed powerglide trans. and right now I dont crank over 4000 rpm. My question is how would you recommend to build that motor that is .080 bore. I believe I can get the flattop pistons from summit. Would that crank be ok. What cam should I go with. There is a 486 I think RV cam. I run possie rearend don't know what ratio it is though. What would you guys suggest for me?

First off, welcome to the board. There are several very knowledgeable engine guys around here. They'll probably chime in after while but I can tell you that most of us start running away from 350 blocks when they hit .060 overbore. If that block is a 350 and the overbore is actually .080, you have some very thin walls. You might sonic test the block but IMHO, it would not be wort rebuilding

Thanks. I am looking forward to learning. This is the same thing I am getting from others around here. The bore is .080 with dome pistons. I got it for a buddy and when he saw it was .080 he went with another block. I had another friend last night say something about it looked like a Canadian block??? I am going to have is sonic tested next week. I am getting different answers from machine shops and friends. I have found this board and I am hoping for help from all the experts of engines. Thanks again. I am looking forward to everything.

How would you guys suggest to build this engine to get hp and still stay in a good low range on the RPM. The track I run at is 1/2 mile and the engine that I have right now is pretty damn fast and good. But I want to build this engine and keep it for a good spare. Or is it just bored to far.

you'll need to sonic check it to see how thin the walls are......that will tell you if its worth keeping around.

-Carm

Alright. I am going to have it sonic tested this coming week.

rstrntsol1,,
keep in mind that the main reason to actually re-bore a block is to get the top cylinder wear ridge/lip back in square with the rest of the cylinder (requiring bigger pistons) and to create a ring seal surface again. or basically so the ring isn't opening up the end gaps letting pressure by when the piston is at tdc.

if you can hang your fingernail on the top wear lip,, it's a gonner. won't overbore again,, and is for the most part,, used up at that bore size already. remember that the ring gap opens up by times pie,, or 3.14 times the bore diameter that it's worn. so if it's worn by .020,, from the non-worn part at the bottom of the cylinder,, then the ring will have .020 x 3.14 = .0628 added to the normal normal end gap of say .018-.022 ending up with about .080+ end gaps on the top rings.

so,, maybe check the cylinder wear lip first,, before you spend $$ on the sonic test.
my 2 cents. hope it helps.

Thanks for the info. I went out and checked the top of the cylinder walls and they are smooth with the rest of the cylinder. I turned it over and checked all the cylinders and they are all smooth. There is no lip at all. Thanks again for the info. all info will help me out when it comes to building an engine.

sounds good. seems like you're ready for the next step. also,,,, a .030 crank with a generous radius from the journal's into the cheek's can be stronger than a square cut standard crank,, or crank with less radius. wouldn't hesitate to use a crank like that either,, if it has a decent radius there. good luck.

You have seen the comments about knowledgeable engine builders here, and heard the concerns on an 0.080 overbore, so I will just add a few general thoughts.

Those more knowledgeable than I can offer specific tips on cam specs, but you should be more concerned with torque than horsepower. In a broad sense, torque gives you acceleration while horsepower gives you the ability to maintain the speed you achieve with the torque. If you are rolling through the corners then accelerating off, you want a motor that builds its max torque within your rpm limits. HP generally peaks at a much higher level.

Once you lock in what your bottom end will be, it will then be easier to offer advice on lift and duration for the engine. I would suggest that if you are not married to one of the engines you are speaking of or if the rules permit, you might want to give a stroker motor some thought. A 0.030 overbore on a 350 block with a ¼ inch increase in stroke will yield a 383 with much greater torque than just a standard 350 or a 355 (350 with a 0.030 overbore and no stroke increase). Good luck with whatever you choose.

Thanks again. Getting a little off the original question, how do I figure what I am pushing in torque on the other engine. 350 small block, 10-10 305 crank, 448 455 RV cam, I took the rods out of a 305, pistons bored .040 flattop, with 333882 heads. And in another, how can I get more into it, being I have to stay within IMCA hobby stock rule, which basically gives me certain numbered heads, no cam rules, with a 2 barrel cast intake, 2barrel carb (no holley), no internal porting polish, no big block components, which I believe my oil pump is which gives me 50# on idle and 75 when running. I like to get as much as I can out of the car. When I fly into the corners I only let out for an instants, and I am all over it. I also have a block in the rearend for possie. On the transmission, I have a 2speed powerglide which is going into its third year and very strong. Thanks again.

[QUOTE=74RAT]rstrntsol1,,
keep in mind that the main reason to actually re-bore a block is to get the top cylinder wear ridge/lip back in square with the rest of the cylinder (requiring bigger pistons) and to create a ring seal surface again. or basically so the ring isn't opening up the end gaps letting pressure by when the piston is at tdc.

Not exactly. You bore if you ring cuts in the cylinders and/or there is cylinder taper and nonsense. If you can catch your fingernail on the ring ridge then that simply means that you need to cut it out. What you want to check for on that block is taper and out of roundness and scratches that you can feel with your fingernail. I would just trash that block .80 over is just not a good thing no matter what. You wont get any kind of strength with it punched out that big.

By the time you mess around with that engine you might be able to buy a Speedway clamer engine if it falls within your class rules. For a circle track engine don't think of it as a spare. IT is your next engine. Have you done the winter freshening of your current engine? Compression check pull the heads, new springs, check thrust, new chain good looking over.

What kind of rpms and engine combo's are the top 5 guys running, thats your competition talk to them unless your in the top 5 already.

Put a sponsership plan together, average attendence at your track, how many races a year etc. Go to your local machineshop ask for machine work for free and parts at cost for a big spot on the hood for his logo. Ask other local shops for help, money for parts tires or have them buy stuff you need. Check with your state do whats neccesary so they can write off what they give you as a advertising expense.
This is all part of it. Do it now so you are set up for when you move up.

Good luck http://www.speedwaymotors.com/default.aspx

P.S.
Looks like they might have stopped the claimer engine program. Its been a long time since I used one. But still a great place for race parts.

Thanks for the input. I have decided to find a truck and put the .080 engine into it and I have a buddy that has another block that all I have to do is have it punched. Standard block. I am going to punch .030 over. Thanks for the link. Ordered a catalog today. I have went through the engine and it is ready to go. I put 110# springs on, rings, oil pump, bearings. I also lapped the valves. Closed all leaks and made sure the engine was not breathing other than the carb.

Not exactly. You bore if you ring cuts in the cylinders and/or there is cylinder taper and nonsense. If you can catch your fingernail on the ring ridge then that simply means that you need to cut it out. What you want to check for on that block is taper and out of roundness and scratches that you can feel with your fingernail.

that pretty well repeated what i sugguested. loosing seal. plain and simple.
a ridge reamer to a machinist is pretty much useless. if the piston rings are hanging up on the ridge/lip not letting the pistons come out,, it needs boring. just pound the pistons out,, breaking them and the rings into pieces if it so happens,, and bore for new ones. the pistons are gonna be worn in the ring grooves as well,, if the bores are that worn. pistons are useless in my book after that point anyway with a ridge like that......... .0015-.0035 max ring groove verticle clearance for me. if i have to stand behind it anyway.

How long has the engine been run at .080 over? If not long I would suggest filling the block 3/4 with some block filler. If you aren't turning over 4000 rpm's it should last forever with a good cooling system. As far as using 305 rods you will defently need top have the engine balanced. Your using a PG, but what rear gears are U ising to keep it 4000 rpm's and under? Also have the heads checked cause the 882's are prone to cracking (as well as their counterparts the 993's)

I am not sure what gear rearend. I believe I heard something like 286 or something in that manner. I also having some problems finding some 14x7 white spoke 4.75bolt pattern 5 bolts. I need to find a set of them on here. Some input on where to find these rims would be appreciated. Thanks. The engine .080 has not been running very long. It was rebuilt and put into a truck and then the transmission went out so they pulled the motor back out.