Dig this, Got the motor running(brad new motor) it has 10:1 compression, cam is 5.10/5.10 with 302 duration. 25-2800 hughes stall converter. I tried a 750 cfom Eddy carb and it was waaaaay too rich, even jetted down. I swapped that with a 650 Eddy and that smelled a lot better. It wont idle. It takes about 30 degrees of advance to idle and its pulling around 11hg of vaccum. I got it to somewhat idle today, but it loads up and dies after about a minute. In that time i decided to take it around the block a few times to set the rings. With it "idling" i put it in gear (th350, stock gears) and it tries to die. I have to feather the gas to keep it going. After i get past like 5mph it is ok. Once i start slowing down again it tries to bog and die. Not much power (for the combo i have) either. Seems to have a slight bog troughout the entire trip. Ideas? Shoot em all out there, theres gotta be something im missing...btw, vaccum is somewhat steady and i cant find a vacum leak.

sounds like a converter problem. the converter your running seems like it would be enough. i have herd of cheap converters causing this though even though they supposedly have a high stall speed. i thought that huges was a pretty good brand though. if it's possible you might try and diffrent converter either a higher stall speed or a diffrent brand.

or i thought of something else. i'm not quite as familiar with edelbrock carbs as i am with hollies but i DO know that if a power valve on a Holley is blown out at idle it is way rich and wants to die.

[This message has been edited by bryan1970 (edited February 20, 2005).]

No power valves on an Eddy. and my 640 came brand new out of the box. Hughes is a very good company that makes quality stuff. Maybe i do need higher stall though. It's a possibility. I just went out and put the weakest springs oin my carb to make sure the rods are down at idle, same thing. I cant get a steady idle out of her now.

What's your initial timing? What's your total timing? What does the timing curve look like? How much timing does your vacuum advance add? How much vacuum does it take to actuate your vacuum advance?

Your Edelbrock dealer should have the stepup spring package for your carb. Edelbrock uses power pistons (what controls your primary rods) and you change the springs underneath those pistons (to lighter in your case) to pull the metering rods down into the jets with your reduced vacuum.

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I was over at jetmech's house yesterday. The vacuum advance was disconnected. Timing light showed about 30*. Could not adjust any lower without engine dying.

must be because #24 won Daytona....jk http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by rogerh:
I was over at jetmech's house yesterday. The vacuum advance was disconnected. Timing light showed about 30*. Could not adjust any lower without engine dying. </font>


Are you sure the TDC mark is correct?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by onovakind67:

Are you sure the TDC mark is correct?</font>

That's what I was wondering.

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John Wright

TDC mark verified correct. Set #1 at TDC, lined mark with balancer. RH

Are you sure your not off a tooth when you dropped the distributor in? Just verifying.

It sounds like you still may be very rich at idle. I'd try to lean out the mixture screws to pick up idle speed and close off throttle blades at same time.

tried messing with the carb last night, the weakest step up springs are in the carb so i know the rodas arent coming up at idle. Also played with the idle mix screws and they seemed to have no effect. Going to give it a fresh start today with a clear head and a knowledgable buddy, i'll post my findings.

if the mixture screws don't do anything when they are adjusyed then that indicates that the carb is not running in the idle circut. whichm probablly means that the idle speed is too high. or you might have to small of jets. do Eddy's have jets or do the rods do all of that work. do eddy carbs function similar to a q-jet?

Well went out today and got it fired up and saw on my 600 the primaries were dripping and not spraying, well hell. I took it off and put the 750 back on(atleast it sprayed not dripped) and fiddled with it. Now i'm at 12 degrees of advance and it holds a somewhat decent idle but still on the high side, We got it down to a normal idle then it loads up after about 25-30 seconds and dies. After it dies the last time we noticed the the carb was percolating and mucho vapor coming out of the carb. We think the idle problem is a product of the kind of intake manifold i have. It's pretty much for all otu racing (It's Professional Products version of an Edelbrock Victor Jr.) So here's the plan. Swap my manifold with Either a performer RPM or a Weiand Excelerator, probably the latter, and see what we got. I got no vacum leak as the vacum is a somewhat steady 12hg @ idle, with the 12degrees of advance. Still have a good amount of blow by as the rings arent fully seated. Roger, keep me honest and plug in anything else you saw today that i left out.

i have the opposite problem. mine idles after its warmed up but it tries to stall whenever i put it in gear and give it any gas. i have to run it at about 2000 rpms until it warms up or it will stall.

Just like jetmech said above. We got the timing set to about 12* initial, mixtures and idle set pretty close. About 20-30 seconds of idle the engine seems like its loading up and starts to die. Have to blip the throttle to clear. Otherwise, it runs okay.

Have you watched the timing while this happens? Are you all the way to the bottom of the curve or does the timing retard as the engine dies?
I would think that 25° of timing at idle would work well, and you can get this by installing the proper vacuum advance can and using it to your advantage.

What if it is retarding as it dies?

As I think about it and looking at the timing light, I believe it WAS retarding as the engine was dying.

If it retards when it dies, you are idling in somewhere within the mechanical advance curve. Your adv springs are too weak. Ideally, you want the mech adv to come on right off idle, but not while at idle -

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by jetmech_63:
What if it is retarding as it dies?</font>

Then your Mech. advance is already coming in at Idle and/or your Vac advance is connected to manifold vacumme not ported.

You should always disconnect the vacuum advance (and plug the port)whern setting your timing, whether you are looking at initial or total -

[This message has been edited by El Guapo (edited February 23, 2005).]

Vacuum advance was disconnected, please see earlier posts.

If the advance curve isn't at its lower limit at your idle speed, it will slowly die. If the idle slows down just a bit, the advance weights get pulled in a little. This means less advance and less idle speed. Less idle speed means the weights pull in a little more. This cycle continues until the engine dies or the lower limit of the advance is reached. Are the advance weights sticking?

[This message has been edited by onovakind67 (edited February 23, 2005).]

They shouldnt be sticking, it's a brand spanking new mallory HEI, they supplied me two other springs with the carb, maybe those... I'll try those after i get a new intake manifold on and a carb spacer. This way i'll eliminate the vaccum leak theory, the too much intake theory and the carb boiling. Gotta love the tinkering phase http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/frown.gif