Ok lets start by saying this will not be a full out race engine. Just a good, solid 350-400 flywheel hp street build.
Although I've been pouring over posts all morning looking at BBC info,there maybe stupid questions in this post.
What I have is a 72 402 block that has magged good, and a set of oval port 3964290 heads, also magged good.

I would like to end up at a 427, has any one bored out this far with a 396/402 block and did you have any overheating issues? I'm sure it will take the overbore no problem.

I want to keep the stock stroke. So at this point can I order stock diameter 427 pistons or not?
Are all 396/427 crank and rod journal sizes the same?
The heads will need hardened exhaust seats at a minimum. The valve guides were tight so should I go ahead a replace them now for piece of mind. Do these heads need major rework or were they good "out of the box" so to speak.
To make matters even muddier I really haven't decided on cam selection yet.

I guess the question is can I do what I want with this block and head combo that I have on hand, without getting too radical.

Thanks ahead of time for your inputs.

Rick

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Second place is the first LOSER!

Overboring your block to 4.250 is dangerous without sonic testing first and I wouldn't do it myself, I would stick with the 402.
Rod and main bearing journals are all the same size within the BBC family.
I would suggest a mild cleanup in the bowls under the valves in your heads as well as the exhaust seats and 16 guides and a surface cleanup.
Camming can be determined once you soildify the rest of your component selection such as gearing, converter, compression, etc.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

Rick,
I'm with Rust. I would take it to whatever is necessary to clean up. .125 over is not necessary.
Or find a 454 block and use your crank and rods.

Pistons depend on final bore, etc.. obviously.

I'm also with Rust as far as the heads go. I would do some mild bowl work. It doesn't take much.
Have new exhaust seats installed, guides as necessary (iron is fine) and surface them.

A It'll be a stout engine with a flat-top or small dome piston.

Nothing fancy at all. I would use a dula plane intake. Performer works well as does the Weiand Action plus or Stealth.

Then we can help with cam.
In a 396 based motor, I would go with about a 230@.050 cam to get you to a nice stout 5500-5800 rpm motor. It will make the power you are looking for.

Might go ever so slightly bigger for a 427 based.

I'm running a 228@.050 Crane in my 427 combo and it pulls hard to ~5800.

Im not trying say its bad but why build a BBC with only 350hp?

A .060" overbore 402 BB with a 4.00", 454 crank is 440.4".

Using a longer, 4.25" stroker crank makes 467.9".

If your crank is bad, I would not hesitate to use either crank but the 4.25" one will need at least 1/4" longer rods for ease of balance.

I say this b/c both longer rods AND cranks have gotten a lot cheaper. Even consider using a cheap, cast 4.00" with stock 454 rods or custom rods with a cast 4.25" crank too....

Pistons are about the same cost regardless of the stroke so if you have to bore it anyway, why not stroke it too b/c the cost is marginal except for rods and even then, the cost to rebuilt stock rods with good bolts can be subtracted from a new set of longer rods to offset their cost..

Please consider Speed-O-Motive b/c they have been making stroker kits for years and years, but be forewarned to spec. a kit just like you want so that there is no question as to what you are paying for is all..

pdq67


[This message has been edited by pdq67 (edited February 06, 2005).]

Love the input keep it coming!

The HP #s are a min not a max, I just want to be able to use stock components, pump gas, and keep within street-ability & budget constraits all the while still owning a big block Camaro.

This is my first BBC build and don't want to get too crazy to the point where it isn't daily driver compatible, however the power on demand of a big block is why I went this route.

Keep it coming!

Rick

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Second place is the first LOSER!

PDQZ, I want to use stock stoke so I don't have to worry about any counter weight/rod clearance issues with this block.

P.S. Jake you have mail

Thanks guys,
Rick

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Second place is the first LOSER!

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by badazz81z28:
Im not trying say its bad but why build a BBC with only 350hp?</font>

Mine has about that much and it's 100% stock. Then again it is out of a 1997 Suburban.

HA HA.....another one to the Dark Side http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

Rick,
Email me at jakeshoe@hotmail.com I haven't gotten anything and I think the armyranger email is on the fritz.

wasnt that motor rated at about 350hp? i had a .030 over 402 with 290s that were ported and polished. with 10:1 compresion. it was rated at 350hp stock

My 454 swallowed my 496's rotating assembly with NO grinding whatsoever!!

I figure it will swallow a 4.375" crank too with maybe a min. of clearancing too!!

AND think about this, it is an old rodders trick, that if you can't slide an old wooden style pencil between the cylinders from the sides through the freeze plug openings, that it is good to a 4.250" overbore!

And yes, there are 396 blocks that will swallow a stock bore 454 rotating assembly too..

That's why I mentioned all this stuff....

pdq67

PS., and if my 496 doesn't feel right in third gear to my trailend, I will either blow it with a Holley/Weiand/B&M 250 or 256 mini-supercharger OR build me a standard deck height, 4.625" b x 4.375" s = 588" motor for the fun of it!!

You know, the ultimate 396" STEALTH motor sorta deal....

[This message has been edited by pdq67 (edited February 07, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 73454:
Mine has about that much and it's 100% stock. Then again it is out of a 1997 Suburban.</font>

I wasnt really talking about power that way. I figure if you want 350hp you are better of building a Small block for the budget. Now BBC is for someone who wants 500hp and it will be streetable and run on pump gas. Thats the reason I wanted a 454 over a 400. The comp was just too high to achieve the same power levels and a BB with 8.5-1 comp. Building a BBC with stock parts??? shoot for atleast 450-500hp

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by badazz81z28:
Thats the reason I wanted a 454 over a 400. The comp was just too high to achieve the same power levels</font>

Car Craft, page 76, January 2004

Pump gas 408" small block, 9.9:1 CR, AFR 227 heads, Crane solid roller, stock 400 block, naturally-aspirated.

91 octane:

637HP @ 6900 RPM 546 TRQ @ 4800 RPM

Tried 114 octane race fuel to see what would happen:

651 HP 7000 RPM 555 TRQ @ 5300 RPM

Not arguing that a small block is better, just pointing out the 400s can make some great power with the right heads and cam.

SOLID ROLLER for the street!! Ya, right....

Go over to both T/C sites and do a search on solid rollers and see how long the guys trust them to last on the street!!

That's why we are all interested in Schbeck's solid roller lifters that don't have any axles or needle bearings to screw up...

pdq67

I'm not entirely disagreeing with you, but I do know guys that run solid rollers on the street. Thus far, the one guy that has had a roller lifter come apart was running a race-roller in a big block (which is strange since he's an old guy and never goes to the track). A couple of other guys with small blocks have had no problems thus far, and one of them has been running a Crane street roller for years. I think the main thing that seems to do in the rollers appears to center around spring pressures. Running a street roller is a lot different than running a race roller on the street. Common sense should tell us running upwards of literally half a ton of over-the-nose spring pressure on the street won't last long. Some guys try and do end up paying the price. However, others run street rollers with much less spring pressures and seem to actually do okay. If I was to run a street roller I think I would opt for Isky Red Zone lifters.

In any case, is it worth it taking the chance the lifter won't come apart? I guess that's up the individual. The power increase with a roller can be tremendous, but for the street it can be a tough call.


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'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds:
Car Craft, page 76, January 2004

Pump gas 408" small block, 9.9:1 CR, AFR 227 heads, Crane solid roller, stock 400 block, naturally-aspirated.

91 octane:

637HP @ 6900 RPM 546 TRQ @ 4800 RPM

Tried 114 octane race fuel to see what would happen:

651 HP 7000 RPM 555 TRQ @ 5300 RPM

Not arguing that a small block is better, just pointing out the 400s can make some great power with the right heads and cam.

</font>

Dang Dirt, you have your Car Craft's memorized like I do!

OK thats enough Im puttin in a straight 6!!!LOL keep it coming

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1978LT:
Dang Dirt, you have your Car Craft's memorized like I do!</font>

Nothing so grandiose, I'm afraid. That issue happens to be sitting on a table next to the computer.

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif



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'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52