i am putting a comp cams solid roller cam into my gen 1 sbc 010 block. I am getting the lifters with the crossbar, so they will just slide right in and go.

A few questions to go along with this.

1. Do i need a bronze dizzy gear?
2. Do i need a wear plate?
3. Do i need a button?
4. What timing cover to use?
5. What timing chain to use?
6. What pushrod length checker do i use? some say "not for roller cam"

i have heard some timing covers could with buttons and you do not need a wear plate, but this is our first roller cam.

thanks
mike

Mike,

I run a hydraulic roller setup in my car. I can answer some of your questions

1. Check with cam manufacturer
2. See answer 5...............
3. See answer 4...............
4. The consensus here is the Cloyes "Quick Button" is the only way to go. It has a built in button that makes setting endplay foolproof.
5. Cloyes timing chain has a Torrington roller bearing to save the block, the cam gear is already clearanced for the added thickness
6. I would find someone that has a similar setup or see if the cam manufacturer can give you a ballpark length on the pushrods, and select from there.

Shane

For #1,, most likely, but you need to check with CompCams with your SPECIFIC cam number to make sure. Usually it's just the hydraulic rollers that have the pressed on iron gear, and solid/billet roller cams require a bronze distributor gear,, but again, like already said, CALL AND MAKE SURE

#2,3,4 and 5 are all taken care of with a Cloyes Quickbutton timing cover and matching Hex-adjust timing set. First rate pieces that take care of the block, and cam-walk all in one.

Lunati sells a pushrod length checker kit that will work great for just about any stud mounted rocker.

I'm actually glad this came up....I gotta deal with the same stuff for a BBC. I'll assume that I just need to find the comparable items for my setup ??

(Already have the pushrods though ;))

thanks for all your help. the only reason i need a pushrod checked is because the valves are .100 long.

thanks again
mike

is this the correct timing chain?

CLO-9-3100A-5

i guess the bolts will not come loss on the street since you do not use the lock plate?

and is this the correct timing cover?

CLO-9-221

thanks

yes and yes, sorta...

although I'm not sure about the -5,, Make sure that's not one for a block that has raised cam tunnel , massive line boreing or something. The number I have is just 9-3100A That -5 may be just something the catalog your looking at adds (like the CLO prefix), not sure.

Two things to add

You should be able to spec the roller with a pressed on gear so you don't have to use a bronze distributor gear. Well worth the upgrade

Second, with the Cloyes hex adjustable chain make darn sure that the cam bolts are loose prior to twisting the hex pin. It will crack like butter if you don't. Never mind how the hell I know that.

LOL been there, done that eh Rick :)

I run a custom solid roller from Comp & i got them to put a cast iron distributor gear on the back of it so i can use a regular distributor gear.

-Carm

i need to call tomorrow. i wonder how long it would take to get that cam? i wil be assembling the engine sat. what are the problems with a bronze gear? wearing

Second, with the Cloyes hex adjustable chain make darn sure that the cam bolts are loose prior to twisting the hex pin. It will crack like butter if you don't. Never mind how the hell I know that.

Fortunately, Cloyes will sell you the hex-key direct and mail it to you priority mail. And you can guess how 'I' know that one too. :o

Yup, wear is the issue with the bronze gear. We will typically get cams within a week.

That would be correct Marv!

Guys,

Please do your homework by going over to Team Chevelle and reading up on all this.

Try here for starters..

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158950

And here also..

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156822

I bet you will enjoy the read.............

pdq67

If you can't get a pressed on gear like Rick suggested, I have had GREAT luck with Comps composite distributor gear.

That 2nd link pdq posted... the 1st post states somthing about to much spring pressure causing lifter failure.
In my experience its the exact 180 of that. Too little is MUCH worse that too much.

I have been running solid rollers on the street for YEARS and have had 0 issues. They just require quite a bit more attention/maintenance.

[QUOTE=BIGBADBOWTIE]Too little is MUCH worse that too much.
QUOTE]

Per those threads:
That is 100% correct.Make sure you don't confuse apples and footballs when running a solid roller. Don't confuse discussion centered around 500 lb closed and 1200 lb open pressure applications with at MOST street small block applications with 600 open pressure. Totally different application as well as ramp design on that class of motor.

Fe basic things that will help out street guys.

A) make sure HOT LASH is adjusted correctly. Hot lash means adjust when the engine is hot enough to burn your hands.

B) inspection of the lifters should be done every year. The roller should turn with no grinding sensation. You'll know it when you feel it.

C) as I know most are doing, use the spring specs recommended by Comp.

[quote=BIGBADBOWTIE]Too little is MUCH worse that too much.
QUOTE]

Per those threads:
That is 100% correct.Make sure you don't confuse apples and footballs when running a solid roller. Don't confuse discussion centered around 500 lb closed and 1200 lb open pressure applications with at MOST street small block applications with 600 open pressure. Totally different application as well as ramp design on that class of motor.

Fe basic things that will help out street guys.

A) make sure HOT LASH is adjusted correctly. Hot lash means adjust when the engine is hot enough to burn your hands.

B) inspection of the lifters should be done every year. The roller should turn with no grinding sensation. You'll know it when you feel it.

C) as I know most are doing, use the spring specs recommended by Comp.



I would also suggest a keeping an eye on spring pressures. The lifter "jumping" over the lobe of the cam VS rolling over it can cause BAD things to happen.

Ditto on the hot lash....warm the engine, do one side. Warm the engine again and do the other.

That is correct as well. I only have data on Isky Tool Room springs and can say that you should have no issues with them on a typical hot street car that sees summer limited use for quite a few years. Even after 3 years of this type of use springs with 625 open pressure have tested fine. I'll simply replace "just because".

I agree though on a new install I'd certainly check the first year for the newbie. If there is an issue with spring pressure rest assured you'll see it on the lobes of the cam when you pull the intake. It leaves a nice witness mark.

All I was pointing out by posting those two links is that there is more to this than meet's the eye.

Both too heavy as well as too light a springs.

Thanks for taking the time to read them.

As always, I'm just trying to help and if I'm muddying up the water, tell me to stay outta the thread and I will be down and on the side lurking as happy as ever.

Guy's, I won't run a solid roller cam just b/c of lifters crapping out over time whenever they decide to do it when daily driven.

And that said, I don't know how GM and others have gotten hy-rollers to last long term unless it is b/c they have self-imposed design limits on their durations, hydraulic intensities and lifts that they won't increase!!!

And I don't think any are running solid rollers, are they???

pdq67

another question. the cam i am getting is ok to use with a iron gear, but CC says i need a iron gear from a car that had a factory roller cam. has anyone ever done this and does it really matter.

thanks
mike

I suspect they want you to use a melonized gear on the distributor. If you are running a MSD they can fix you up.

i am running a proform HEI that was converted to accept MSD. which one would i use?

thanks
mike

Melonized gear for GM HEI distributor with .491-shaft size
GM P/N -10456413
Melonized gear for MSD distributor with .500 -shaft size
MSD P/N - 8531

Not sure what size shaft you have so take yourt pick.



PDQ... you are correct, GM has hydraulic rollers. It also amazes me on how long they will last.