i just picked up a good running low miles targetmaster/GM crate engine for nothing.. has 993 heads.. i'm thinking of making it a spare for my 1990 GMC 1500 that has 155,000+ miles on it... i wanna know what cam and intake would make the most torque with this engine?(since the truck has 3.08 gears)

i'd like a cam that is under like $100-150 with lifters and everything

[This message has been edited by 1981coupe400ci (edited January 27, 2005).]

What's wrong with the cam that's in it?

Keep in mind the heads are different chamber sizes and the intake bolt pattern is different between your F.I. truck engine and those 993 heads.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

i know the intake for a 90 is diffrent they changed in 86 or 87.. what i wanted to do was put a regualar performance carb intake and put on one of those adapters so i can still run the TBI....

and as for the cam.. well its a stock cam.. thats the problem with it...


i heard a target master with a performer or performer RPM intake and a set of headers and a good carb would make about 250HP?? any truth to that?



[This message has been edited by 1981coupe400ci (edited January 26, 2005).]

250 is probably a real picture with headers/intake/carb.
You're also down about a point or so in compression compared to your fulie engine. For a truck no more than 210 duration intake, extra few degrees exhaust.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

i have this cam just layin around...
would this work? i wouldnt mind losing some torque if it will still make some decent power and sound good.. or is it just to big for a truck??

Duration .050-Int. 230, Exh, 230. Adv. duration Int. 287, Exh. 287. Valve lift Int. 480, Exh. 480. Center Lobe Int. 107, Exh. 111

If this is a real Targetmaster, and not a Goodwrench, it has a really anemic cam, even more anemic than the 3896929 cam used in the LM1 engines of the late 70s. The flip side is that the Targetmaster had better heads, and more compression than the LM1, so it makes significantly better HP than the LM1 in stock trim. I have a dyno test of the Targetmaster, and with headers, it does put out an honest 250hp at the flywheel, and it is a torque monster compared to the LM1 engines.

The specs I have found for the cam are

Targetmaster
Lift I384 E403
Dur I194 E202

by comparison, the generic 3896929 cam was
Lift I390 E410
Dur I195 E203

I have a Targetmaster in my 81 Chevy pickup for 22 years now, and it is a much better engine than the original engines Chevy had in those years. Mine has headers, and an Weiand aluminum intake to wake it up a little.

[This message has been edited by Gary S (edited January 27, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Gary S:
If this is a real Targetmaster, and not a Goodwrench, it has a really anemic cam, even more anemic than the 3896929 cam used in the LM1 engines of the late 70s. The flip side is that the Targetmaster had better heads, and more compression than the LM1, so it makes significantly better HP than the LM1 in stock trim. I have a dyno test of the Targetmaster, and with headers, it does put out an honest 250hp at the flywheel, and it is a torque monster compared to the LM1 engines.

The specs I have found for the cam are

Targetmaster
Lift I384 E403
Dur I194 E202

by comparison, the generic 3896929 cam was
Lift I390 E410
Dur I195 E203

I have a Targetmaster in my 81 Chevy pickup for 22 years now, and it is a much better engine than the original engines Chevy had in those years. Mine has headers, and an Weiand aluminum intake to wake it up a little.

[This message has been edited by Gary S (edited January 27, 2005).]</font>

this is what i got from mortec...

10066036...350...........2 or 4 bolt main...Target Master/Goodwrench crate motor, 2-piece rear seal, "Hecho en Mexico"


heads are a 993 and look clean so i think they came with the engine originally


[This message has been edited by 1981coupe400ci (edited January 27, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1981coupe400ci:
i have this cam just layin around...
would this work? i wouldnt mind losing some torque if it will still make some decent power and sound good.. or is it just to big for a truck??

Duration .050-Int. 230, Exh, 230. Adv. duration Int. 287, Exh. 287. Valve lift Int. 480, Exh. 480. Center Lobe Int. 107, Exh. 111</font>

Bad choice. Rough idle, stalling while in gear at the stop lights, poor cold engine performance, no power until 3500+, etc. The bulk of our "truck" cams we sell are the 204/214/112 lobe sep cams sold by most of the cam companies out there, stock idle, good mileage, decent torque.


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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

I agree with Rust. A truck cam only needs to be one or two steps over stock. In fact, my brother recently went with a Lunati 268 adv. 218 @ .050 .454 lift (sound familiar eh?) in his '85 4x4. It runs stronger than the Performer cam he originally had, but then again he is running a carb. TBI is VERY sensitive to manifold vacuum, and I'd draw the line around 205-210, with a 112-114 lobe separation.

that cam i listed will probebly end up in my 327 i guess..

if i have to i'll scrap the TBI and go carb.. or i might even throw a 454 TBI on it..

would this cam work?

283/286 210/216 @.050" .435/.455 107/117
1500-5000RPM

or
would a comp cam XTREME 4X4 cam be good??

like a X4262H...or a X4270X???


or maybe a crane??

which one of these would work good?? if any of them..

100032- 204@.050, 260 adv.dur, 427 lift, 110 lobe sep, 1200-4200 rpm range, smooth idle

100042- 210@.050, 266 adv dur, 440 lift, 110 lobe sep, 1600-4600 rpm range, smooth idle

100052- 216@.050, 272 adv. dur, 454 lift, 110 lobe sep, 2000-5000 rpm range, good idle

100072- 228@.050, 284 adv dur, 480 lift, 112 lobe sep, 3000-6000 rpm range, fair idle, 9.5:1-11 compression ratio, headers

100082- 226@.050, 282 adv dur, 470 lift, 106 lobe sep, 2500-5500 rpm range, rough idle, 9.5:1-11 compr., likes headers

100112- 246@.050, 302 adv dur, 500 lift, 106 lobe sep, 3500-6500 rpm range, rough idle, 10.5:1+ compr., 3000+ stall

100132- 222@.050, 278 adv dur, 450 lift, 106 lobe sep, 2400-5400 rpm range, good/fair idle, likes headers

100172- 218@.050, 274 adv dur, 450 lift, 106 lobe sep, 2200-5200 rpm range, rough idle, 2500+ stall, 8.75:1-10 compr. ratio

100182- 230@.050, 286 adv dur, 465 lift, 106 lobe sep, 3200-6200 rpm range, rough idle, needs headers, 2500+ stall



[This message has been edited by 1981coupe400ci (edited January 27, 2005).]

look on the back of the block my freind got one 4 bolt main on it it says


made in mexico in the casting


would ya trust it ?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by rhead007:
look on the back of the block my freind got one 4 bolt main on it it says


made in mexico in the casting


would ya trust it ?</font>


Certainly. We've never had any problems with these blocks. I wouldn't recommend one for a top fuel application, though.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by rhead007:
look on the back of the block my freind got one 4 bolt main on it it says
made in mexico in the casting
would ya trust it ?</font>

I agree with oneofakind67. These Mexico cast blocks meet the same specs as the blocks that Chevy cast in the US. They perform just as well under power loads, and the good thing is that most of the Mexico blocks are 4 bolt as compared to very few of the US blocks. Either one will work in any application.

For an old TBI truck application I'm not sure I'd even change the cam. The one that comes in the motor is probably a little bigger than the one in your stock engine already and that TBI setup just isn't going to do much over about 4500 anyway. Leave it be.

If you MUST swap the cam then why not throw in one of those cheap Summit house brand cam/lifter sets for $80. Get the little 204/214 cam which is still about 10* more duration than stock and with more lift.

Edlebrock Performer or similar would be my choice for intake. EGR version would at least give you a fighting chance to keep the EGR system functional.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1981coupe400ci:
that cam i listed will probebly end up in my 327 i guess..

Duration .050-Int. 230, Exh, 230. Adv. duration Int. 287, Exh. 287. Valve lift Int. 480, Exh. 480. Center Lobe Int. 107, Exh. 111
</font>
That's probably as big of a cam that you should put in a 327 unless you do some MAJOR mods to it. 327's don't like hidiously large cams.
But that cam should work good in a 327, I just don't think I'd go very much more.