I have a '66 327 out of a Corvette with 2.02 fuelie hump heads in my '73. The previous owner said it had been built...10.5 to 1 speed pro forged pistons, huge cam (although I don't know exact specs)...but I don't know how many miles ago. I'm in the midst of detailing everything under my hood and have pulled the engine/trans.

The car was running absolutely fine before I started the work, so I was only planning on replacing the gaskets (oil pan, intake manifold, fuel pump, valve covers). There is a little bit of oil on the threads of my spark plugs and none really on the electrodes or anything ... NO bad signs other than that.

Not too mention the PO had the wrong size plugs in there...the 327 uses 13/16" with a gasket, but it had 5/8" plugs with no gasket from the time I bought it...the threads are the same so they fit.

My thoughts are that maybe the oil was seeping down the outside of the head onto the threads because there were no gaskets instead of it coming past the rings??? I haven’t run the engine since switching plugs so not sure if my assessment is accurate.

I am spending enough money and time already on this detailing project and do not want to mess with the internals of my engine (or have a shop do it more likely).


I have not had any type of machine/engine work done before on any of my cars, so I'm unfamiliar with possible things that should/could be done.
Here is my question: What should I do to the engine at this point that is NOT expensive? On the one hand I don’t want to spend money unnecessarily, but on the other hand as long as I’ve got it out???

Thanks

Here is my question: What should I do to the engine at this point that is NOT expensive? On the one hand I don’t want to spend money unnecessarily, but on the other hand as long as I’ve got it out???

Thanks

Well, can we assume that you are replacing the rear main oil seal while you are doing the oil pan gasket? If the engine is out & the pan is off, I would look inside to check the condition of the cylinder walls & bearings.

Were your plugs fouled at all? Were you puffing smoke out of the exhaust at all? If not, I would suspect that your oil in your plug threads was from the outside of the engine. If you were puffing smoke or your plugs look fouled, you may want to take a closer look.

Assuming that the timing chain was replaced when the engine was rebuilt, there isn't much else to do unless you want to pop off the heads or swap cams. If you don't have headers & want them, now is the time to do it. Also, this is a good time to change out clutches or torque converter (for a different stall speed).

Have fun detailing.

Edited for spelling mistakes...

Well, can we assume that you are replacing the rear main oil seal while you are doing the oil pan gasket? If the engine is out & the pan is off, I would look inside to check the condition of the cylinder walls & bearings.

Were your plugs fouled at all? Were you puffing smoke out of the exhaust at all? If not, I would suspect that your oil in your plug threads was from the outside of the engine. If you were puffing smoke or your plugs look fouled, you may want to take a closer look.

Assuming that the timing chain was replaced when the engine was rebuilt, there isn't much else to do unless you want to pop off the heads or swap cams. If you don't have headers & want them, now is the time to do it. Also, this is a good time to change out clutches or torque converter (for a different stall speed).

Have fun detailing.

Edited for spelling mistakes...

Thanks Big Mouse. A friend told me to replace the rear main seal as long as I have everything apart, so I will be doing that.

NO fouling ... NO smoke. I think it was the wrong plugs being in there that allowed oil onto the threads...hopefully.

Cam is HUGE and sounds great...headers already on there...clutch work with new scattershield finished right before I bought it (June 06).

I'll check on the timing chain.

Any suggestions from anyone else. Thanks

sounds like it's ready to hit the track when you get it back in!!! post up some times if you get em'. good luck.

sounds like it's ready to hit the track when you get it back in!!! post up some times if you get em'. good luck.

I will...but we only have 1/8 mile down in SD...they open up Qualcomm stadium parking lot two times a month. I WANT A 1/4 MILE RUN!

I'm mostly just detailing the heck out of everything so it won't be any faster than before...but, then again, no dirt/grime is better for aerodynamics, right?

I will...but we only have 1/8 mile down in SD...they open up Qualcomm stadium parking lot two times a month. I WANT A 1/4 MILE RUN!

I'm mostly just detailing the heck out of everything so it won't be any faster than before...but, then again, no dirt/grime is better for aerodynamics, right?

if your car is set up for the 1/4 gearing wise,, you can pretty accurately convert the 1/8 mile times to 1/4 times. taking account any elevation changes and air quality might make it a slight bit more difficult,, but can be done. it'll be pretty close anyway. at least give you an idea before you get there.

some have reported as much as 30-40 lbs of undercoating and gunk from the underbody areas being removed. that's working on 1/2 a tenth!! so weight has an effect on things as well. every 100 lbs is worth about a tenth in the quarter mile.