View Full Version : Carb Rebuild Questions


amargari
01-12-2005, 04:25:00 PM
I am looking for a winter indoors project right now. I figured maybe I could rebuild my carb. It has been sitting for 13 years and wasn't new back then. The carb list number is 4777-2. I searched and this is what my carb came up as:

CFM: 650
STOCK JETTING: (F)67,(R)76
POWER VALVE: 6.5
TYPE: 4150

I was wondering which kit I should use to rebuild it? Here are the choices:

1. Holley Carburetor Rebuild/Renew Kit, Holley 4150/4160 Models $33.95

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=HLY%2D37%2D485&FROM=MG

2. Holley Carburetor Rebuild/Trick Kit, Holley 2300/2305/4150/4160/4165/4175/4180/4500 Models $79.88

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=HLY%2D37%2D933&FROM=MG

3. BG Fuel Systems Carburetor Rebuild Kit, Master, Road/Sea/Speed Demon, Claw, Holley 4150 Model, Mechanical Secondary $62.35

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=BGI%2D195004&FROM=MG

Also, what would this carb be worth in rebuilt clean condition.

-Thanks


------------------
1973 Type LT/RS
http://www.apiem.com/camaro

Damon
01-12-2005, 05:12:00 PM
Someone MIGHT give you $100 for a freshly rebuilt carb but it's a crap-shoot. I usually only get that kinda money for them if I actually bolt it onto the prospective seller's engine and SHOW them that it runs well.

I've used all the above kits. I like the Holley kit for double pumpers, like yours. I like aftermarket kits (like the kit by AED and others) becuase they come with a new vacuum secondary diaphragm, which the Holley kit does not for those carbs.

Your squirters should be #28 on both the primary and secondary side, stock, although you can definitely go up to #31s if you want with no real downside.

Getting off old gaskets: best method I have found is to buy 2-3 gallon sized cans of carb cleaner dip at Pep Boys or wherever. The cans are too small to put the parts into so you'll also need a rather large metal bucket or planter (NOT a plastic one- it'll melt). Fill up the big bucket with the carb cleaner, put the carb parts in and let them sit overnight. Nothing plastic goes in there- just metal stuff. You can usually scrape the gaskets off very easily after that. Some parts may require a repeated soak/scrape regimen. Unfortunately, modern "environmentally safe" carb dip isn't nearly as good as the stuff back in the old days but if you do it like I describe you should get good resutls and jsut have a little cleanup left to do with a toothbrush and a spray can of carb cleaner and you'll be ready to begin reassembly. Remember that the CLEANING is more time consuming, and just as important as the parts you reassemble it with. I'll spend 75% of my carb rebuild time just cleaning the parts.

1978LT
01-12-2005, 06:36:00 PM
If you can find it, Berrymans is the best dip I've found. It will actually eat through the can and leak out if you keep it for a couple years.

Like Damon said, the gaskets are the hard part to get off. Everything else is gravy.