01-05-2005, 02:08:00 PM
i am looking into stokin a 350. i am wondering what i have to do/buy. i know i need a .30 overbore which i already have. Also i know i need a rotating assembly with a new crank, rods.Can anyone give me the specs. Also, Can i use my existing pistons, or not. Can anyone tell me where i can get a relativley cheap assembly. Would used be ok? Thanks
01-05-2005, 03:48:00 PM
ok, here we go, stroking a 350 to a 383 which is what i assume your doing.... you can use stock pistons, but 383 pistons will last MUCH longer,with a 400 crank you will have to get it ground down on the main journals . 5.7 rods will give you more torque, 6 inch rods will rpm faster, you will have to grind notches into your oil pan rails, grind notches into your cylinder walls, scat rotating assemblies are very reasonably priced, and high quality, i have a 383 with 550+ h.p. with scat rotating assembly, and i am very impressed with it, i used k.b. hyper pistons and am spraying it with 175 shot of nitrous. hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by dnchevyman (edited January 05, 2005).]
01-06-2005, 11:48:00 AM
i have tried to look at the scat rotating assembly, but the website doesnt show prices or applications. How much do they run for? I am looking to get lots of low end to midrange torque.
01-06-2005, 12:02:00 PM
Sometimes they have complete assemblies on Evilbay. You can at least get a look at the pricing or maybe a good deal if your lucky.
01-09-2005, 11:31:00 AM
If you use the 400 rods (5.565") you can use your stock pistons. If you use longer rods, you will need new pistons. The longer the rod is the better for reduced wear. If you get an externally balanced crank (like the 400) you will need a new balancer and flexplate/flywheel. An internally balanced crank is better, but not necessary.
01-09-2005, 12:18:00 PM
Yeah there are a few routes you could go
Poor mans 383 (and no offense intended):
re-use your 350 pistons, get a 400 crank, have it ground to 350 mains, use the 400 rods (5.565") Some minor clearancing on the inside face of the block, the pan rails, bottom of the bores 'may' be necessary. You will need the stock 400 external balance flex plate / flywheel, and balancer. Have never seen one of these live a good long time, but that doesn't mean thay can't. Generally you can get through the rotating assembly for under $400
More typical street/strip 383
TRW L2491f or KB Hypereutectic pistons designed for 5.7" rod and 3.75" stroke. Refurbish and rough clearance your existing rods w/ quality ARP fastners, order a new cast 5140 crank for around $300, new GM 400 balancer and flexplate for external balance, balance assembly, Generally you can get through one of these for under $800-900 depending on what machine work you have done.
Serious street / mild bracket motor:
Scatt or Eagle cast steel crank w/ 5.7" or 6" I-beam rods, or Eagle ESP stroker rods, SRP pistons, internal balance, lots of tedious clearancing, small base circle cam (typically),,, your not going to walk away from the machine shop and have all the parts for a short block for less than $1200 - $1500+ (still need heads and valve train)
Just plain SERIOUS:
Reher/Morrison, Herbert, Shafferoff, BME, Eagle,, everyone offers a full tilt all forged racing assembly. It's a box of parts and making everything work and fit together, and stuffing it in the small box of the 4" bore casting is your problem. Eagle, TFS, Callies, Crower, Cola,, lots of good 4340 cranks out there. Lunati ProMod rods are $740, Eagle ESP rods a little cheaper, JE pistons, ATI balancer ($300 by it's self) clearnacing the block, small base circle cam, internal balance which may mean chucking the crank up in a lathe, or may mean adding chumks of mallory (just depends on the crank and compinent selection), file fit Plasmamoly rings, H series bearings, LOTS of tedious assembly and clearancing,,, if you walk away with $3000 in parts and $500-$1000 at the machine shop,, you done good.
Used parts: "you get what you pay for" is seldom true in used parts. You either get junk that has been beat on and takes a fortune to refurbish to a usable state, or you get VERY high quality usable components that have been 'out grown' and the seller is absorbing a LOT of the expense. If you find used components that cost more than 1/2 the cost of new, or that the seller doesn't 100% guarentee is is a usable item,, RUN as fast as you can and keep looking. There are a lot of honest, trustworthy people out there, there are a lot of honest people than are more than capable of making a mistake, and there are a BILLION scamm artists. It's up to you to sort out which is which.
Just as an example, I received an e-mail the other day from a guy asking about a 'early Corvette 327' he was looking at on evilbay. When it all came down to a simmer, the "Corvette 327" was a 1955 Chevy 265 out of a 1/2 ton pickup. Engine coding, cast numbers and crank cast number proved it. The seller told this guy that "I provided you with the casting numbers, its your responsibility to verify what you are buying. All I said was it was 'from' an early Corvette"
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01-09-2005, 03:31:00 PM
Never stroke it when its running if you do stay away from belts and headers!
Round here strokin one is worth 8 tenths in anything!
14.22 on the brakes (I expect 13.90's soon)
01-09-2005, 05:29:00 PM
Thanks for the info everybody keep it coming. I hopefully have one lined up this time from somebody i trust alot, i have bought many used parts from him and had no prblems with them.