I am looking at stroking my gen2 block to a 383 and was wondering where the best place to get a balanced rotating assembly would be.
I know about the obvious, but I was hoping for a hookup. There are so many hardcore gearheads on this forum, someone has to know someone, right???

Also, this engine will be built for 95% strip. if anyone wants to chime in with a parts suggestion, I would be fine with that. ie. h beam vs i beam, aluminum vs titanium, etc.

Thanks and happy holidays

where do you live.......................will help...............

Check out where the local racers buy from....Support your local community!!!

I live in Pensacola. The local guys are either rednecks or a ripoff. I am not too concerned with supporting them. I am a Marine and don't stay in one place for too long, so I like to do business with people online where I can always stay in contact with them.

not what you asked but there's a shop over by Eglin or Hurlburt called Panhandle Performance that seems to have a good rep. My pops has a street rod that he was kicking around having the motor gone through and came up with that shop.

Speed-O-Motive and PAW are both west coast places that I highly recommend. Also Northern Auto Parts has good prices and top name parts too.

tmorand,
Check out my website hiperperformance.com I have great deals on eagle rotating assemblies. Also I am giving Nastyz28.com members $100 of the listed price.
Good luck

Speed-O-Motive and PAW are both west coast places that I highly recommend. Also Northern Auto Parts has good prices and top name parts too.

NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
I have never met anyone who has had a good experience with Speed-o-Motive they have the worst rep in the industry and have earned it.

The truth is that there is very little profit margin in engine internals, 20% at most no one is going to be able to save you major $$ on anything. If you see parts that are signifigantly cheaper than something else, there is a reason.
In other words you get what you pay for.

What are your goals? We can certainly help with component selection

I will definately check out hiperperformance.
As far as my goals are concerned 500/500 and barely streetable would be nice. I don't really want a super high rev, but it should be able to handle close to 7000. I want max torque around 4500 and hp shortly after. I know that has to do with cam selection though.
I would also like around 12.5:1. I am still researching heads. I currently have world heads ported, but they probably flow less than 250 @500.
I want a super strong engine that will handle nitrous in the future, but I don't want to break the bank.
3400# car would like to be in the low 7's with slapper bars and drag radials leaving on the brake.

Like Lowend said, prices are going to be comparable wherever you go. , I'd check out Doug Herbert. Might save a little there with shipping. I think Herbert still has some Cola 3.75" cranks in stock, eagle rods, SRP piston combinations. Good pieces, reasonable prices for what your getting.

Ah
You should be able to get an acceptable Rotating assy for ~$1500 shipped
Scat Series 9000 crank
Scat 6" I-beam rods
SRP Flat-top pistons

With a 64cc head your compression will be ~10.6-1 which is more than enough to make the 500/500 mark with the right cam and head combo.

Now that I have seen the prices and picked myself back up off the floor, I'm wondering if I could do something with what I already have. Maybe I won't stroke it after all. I already have a forged scat crank, and forged trw flat tops with gm x rods. It doesn't really seem like I would gain anything by getting a matching assy. I think where I would make the biggest gain is balancing the internals.
Now I am going to do some research on that. I might have to end up reving higher to make the power, but with an intenally balanced engine, that shouldn't be a problem.

Your 357, is that a 400 block with a 3.25" crank now? If so we can rev the weee outta it and make a ton of HP that way

Try here..

Mike, (aka, Wolfplace)...

http://www.lewisracingengines.com/

And here..

Contact Carl here, whose handle is CNC BLOCKS..

http://www.cncblocksnortheast.com/

pdq67

Try here..

Mike, (aka, Wolfplace)...

http://www.lewisracingengines.com/

And here..

Contact Carl here, whose handle is CNC BLOCKS..

http://www.cncblocksnortheast.com/

pdq67

If we sell any rotators if we have time which is in the mid summer when things quiet down we sell sell a rotator with a brand new GM block all race preped and the rotator is all clearanced out.

The blocks we sell with the rotator are line honed with ARP hardware decked to zero, stroker clearanced, bored and plate honed, galley plugs in the front of the block are taped for pipe plugs peformance cleaned, cam bearings installed and brass freeze plugs.

The rotators that are sold in magazines the rods have not been clearanced on both ends the pin bores in the pistons have not been clearanced the rings have not been fit and in most cases the bearings they selll are to tight as we have to in most cases use a X series bearings and we balance it as well and this is what I call ready to assemble as the salesmen that sell these rotators in the magazines say there ready to assemble which they are far from that.

I see alot of kits sold with H-series bearings and a cast crank and Clevite does not recomend the H bearing to be used on a cast crank.

We sell only forged rotators Scat rods and Cranks and with the block all clearnaced out runs 3495.00 and shipped free in the U.S. ONLY WHEN WE HAVE TIME WE DO THIS.

THIS IS TRUELY A READY TO ASSEMBLE KIT

Here is a pic of the set up we sell

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/383ENGINE001.jpg

Your 357, is that a 400 block with a 3.25" crank now? If so we can rev the weee outta it and make a ton of HP that way
No, it's a .040 over 350.
I guess most people just say 355.

always had luck with competition products out of wisconsin i believe. at the end of the year they clear all their shelves. call over and get a catalog they have great prices and shipping. good luck and for what its worth was way happy that i made my 355 into a 383. difference is unreal. merry christmas

At 040 over that is not the greatest platform to start with for a total build. What I am thinking right now is we work out a top end upgrade and you start saving to scratch for a new block core

At 040 over that is not the greatest platform to start with for a total build. What I am thinking right now is we work out a top end upgrade and you start saving to scratch for a new block core

fwiw, the motor is fresh at 040 over. I wouldn't have to do anything except maybe hone it a little. It probably has 50 street miles and 15 passes on it since built. I am tearing it down due to excessive blowby.
Is there a reason 040 is not as good?

I would love to just work out a top end, but I still have to re-ring the pistons and the block is coming out anyway. If I were to spend money on a new cam and heads, (1500) why not go all the way? I guess there are so many roads to take, I am overwhelmed.

A fresh balanced/blueprinted longblock does sound tempting.

What kinda budget you want to work with

What kinda budget you want to work with
Well, if that isn't the question of the week...!

Using my current pieces and parts-$1500 to reach hp/tq goals

It is taking forever to reply b/c I am at my parents house and they have dial up. I only check the board once a day.

P.A.W. :mad:
I don't want to list the horror story I got for my time and money I spent with that company.