Where do they go? The last owner butchered the wiring and I am also using a 76 engine so I don't know if the 72 came with 3 or one wire.
I'm a bit lost here and any help you can offer would be great.
Also the wiring info on this site says either 70, 71 or 73 does it jump 72 or is it the same as 73?
Thanks

Ok a little more specfic.
What are the 3 circles in this picture? One comes off the wire from the starter to the alt. and another comes straight from the alt. The last one comes from the fuse box. They all appear to terminate but I can't figure out where.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/raidmagic/wiringhelp.jpg

This whole thread should be in the electric section, I screwed up, could a mod move it please?
One last bit of dumb here. Coming out of my fuse box is a white wire and a pink wire that I can't find on the diagrams.

I have a picture of a 1970, the wires are Red, white, Blue. If you want I can e-mail. I'm still unsure how to post pictures from my computer to this site!

Any help at this point would be good. Thanks. raidmagic@verizon.net

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml

Read the whole article. Some VERY good stuff!

Very good article and I learned alot. I will be saving that link. It still didn't answer my questions though. Which wire is the main power up wire in my harness?

Poke around here: http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/28/19/0900823d801a2819.jsp

http://www.madelectrical.com/images/chevym1.jpg

The 10red is your main feed wire. The 10 denotes wire size, lower number equals larger wire. Larger wire means it's designed to handle more current/voltage. All three connect to the horn relay, the circles are the ring terminals. The two squares on top of the horn relay denotes a plug, I believe.

3 wires from the alt.
muscl car's pic show where the 10g red goes to. For the 2 smaller wires it depends on what kind of alternator you have now. A externally regulated alternator, the 2 small terminals look like this " l l " a internally regulated alternator the 2 small terminals look like this " - - " If you are still not sure, i can post pics. For a 72, with a externally regulated alternator, originally they both went to the voltage regulator. The blue wire went to the "F" terminal on the alternator and to the "F" terminal at the regulator. The white wire went to the "R" terminal at the alternator and terminal 2 at the regulator. If you have a internally regulated alternator, the wiring should have been changed for it to work properly. There are several ways to convert a original externally regulated charging system to a internal one, the variable being where the sense wire is wired to. Hope this helps, if not post back.

muscl car's pic show where the 10g red goes to. For the 2 smaller wires it depends on what kind of alternator you have now. A externally regulated alternator, the 2 small terminals look like this " l l " a internally regulated alternator the 2 small terminals look like this " - - " If you are still not sure, i can post pics. For a 72, with a externally regulated alternator, originally they both went to the voltage regulator. The blue wire went to the "F" terminal on the alternator and to the "F" terminal at the regulator. The white wire went to the "R" terminal at the alternator and terminal 2 at the regulator. If you have a internally regulated alternator, the wiring should have been changed for it to work properly. There are several ways to convert a original externally regulated charging system to a internal one, the variable being where the sense wire is wired to. Hope this helps, if not post back.


The engine is out of a 76 it is an internal regulated alt. What should I change to make it work with my wiring?

1974typelt/z28:
That is just the info I needed on where those wires ended. I have to run new wires to get there so I will be using the 10 gauge, Thanks.

First to let you understand how a internally regulated alternator works, there are 3 wires that come off the alternator, one is the BAT terminal that the 10g red goes to, this is the output wire that charges the battery and powers the car ect... Next there are 2 small terminals on the side of the alternator, on the back of the alternator there are markings that number the terminals, heres a pic, http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Alternator1.jpg
Terminal 1 is what turns the alternator on, when power is applied. Power comes from the IGN switch and is only on when the key is on. Terminal 2 is the sense wire, it is used to adjust the voltage or in basic terms the output of the alternator. All alternators have a voltage set point in which they try to hold the voltage at, which is usually around 14.2 volts. When voltage coming in on terminal 2 starts dropping, the output is raised and vice versa. Terminal 2 is usually wired to the "main electrical junction" which is the 4 way splice although the horn relay buss bar can also be used. In these places power is always on.

For wiring many options, heres one
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html
This just mimics a one wire alternator. The brown wire from the voltage regulator plug is tied to the blue and the blue goes to terminal one. To use true remote sensing also tie the white from the voltage regulator plug to the orange and the white to terminal 2. This puts the sense wire at the "main junction"

If you are not onto cutting and splicing wires americanautowire has conversion harnesses the make a changing from a external regulator to a internal regulator a "plug and play" deal. I recommend this if you are electrically challenged. It does the same thing as above. You would need part# 27555, $15.00
http://www.americanautowire.com/images/imagelib/Alternators.pdf

undee72z, In your second link the diagram shows capping the white and pink wires at the regulator and splicing the brown and blue together. Why is this done? Why not just remove all of that totally? Is there a wire that goes to the blue and brown splice that is not shown in that pic?
Thanks

The year of the engine/car it comes from doesn't matter.
It's the operating system that matters. As long as you use your original
electrical system then follow the original diagrams. I don't see a regulator in the diagram.
Does your car physically have a regulator?? Does it have wires attached??

undee72z, In your second link the diagram shows capping the white and pink wires at the regulator and splicing the brown and blue together. Why is this done? Why not just remove all of that totally? Is there a wire that goes to the blue and brown splice that is not shown in that pic?
Thanks
Its just one way of doing it, not really the best way. That method makes the alternator act like a one wire alternator. You can't remove it totally unless you use a true one wire alternator and they don't work the greatest. The brown comes from the GEN light, is tied to the blue and goes to terminal 1 at the alternator (terminals are marked on back of alternator) , this turns the alternator on. Terminal 2 at the alternator is the sense wire, it is used to adjust the output of the alternator. The best way to convert to a internally regulated alternator is to tie the blue and brown together and tie the white and red together at the old voltage regulator. Blue goes to terminal 1 and the white goes to terminal 2 at the alternator. The third link in my other post does this, the jumpers are in the box and you just plug it in to your old voltage regulator plug. The voltage regulator is then not used. You can also take 1974typelt/z28 advice and just use your original alternator if you still have it.