I am so frustrated, I almost smashed the car on purpose.

My valve covers leak. They have always leaked after a few months.

It does not matter what type of gasket I use. Install it dry, or with silicone- do difference. Torque to 2, 3, 5, 10 ft lbs- who cares. Loctite on the threads or not- whatever.

They leak. The sealing surface is arrow-straight on both sides.

These are the GMPP chrome covers. I suspect the chrome, being "slick," is causing the gasket to pinch inward when I torque the cover down.

Who makes a valve cover, with baffles, that has a completely flat lip on the underside? No roll whatsoever. I want something that has an angle as sharp as the one on the head sealing surface.

Anyone?

P.S. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

Here is what I do and I have never had a leak no matter how cheesy the valve covers are. I only use "old school" cork gaskets as thick as I can find. Since you have a Chevy, you have no excuse for not being able to source thick cork gaskets. I then only use either RTV Blue or Black. I use blue on cast covers and black on either.

Clean the rails on the covers with alcohol, Lay a bead or RTV then smear it to cover the entire valve cover rail. Law down the gasket on the RTV then pull the gasket off. Replace the gasket again on the valve cover and press every inch down and into the corners. Wipe any excess on the inside off until it forms a "continuous wall" of RTV around the inside edge of the gasket so you cannot see any gap between the gasket and valvecover.

Here's the important part. Flip the cover over and place it on a flat surface and place about 30-50lbs of weight on the cover. Go have some beer and leave it to dry overnight. Install and torque down with a nut driver.

You will never have a leak and your gaskets will last for years as only one side sees sealer and the gasket is attached to the valve cover rather than the engine. My covers come off several times a year for one reason or another and have not replaced the gaskets for years.

The other thing I would look into is your PCV system.

Get a set of polished aluminum covers.
I've had my set for over a year and haven't seen as much as sweat around the gaskets. Use a good cork gasket with the mega black silicone.
Just smear it on with you're fingers, you don't need alot.
Heck, if you had to take the covers back off you may have problems.

I have the cast aluminum GMPP covers in black krinkle. They are nice & flat and have lip on the inside that doesnt allow the gasket to slide in under the cover even with the crappy rail on top of stock cast iron GM heads, they do not leak. I am also using el cheapo rubber gaskets with a metal core. Oh, and I install them DRY.

Shane

I'll mail yua mine for $500!

Have you tried rubber gaskets? I have never had a leak once I switched over, and you don't use any sealer with the rubber ones, so you cna take them off whenever you want!

Zee has the right idea, and don't forget the spreader bars to help distribute the force better. Naturallyl, flatten the covers where the bolts go through if they are tweeked.

Have spacers between my covers and the heads for rocker clearance, hard to keep from leaking. Went to Autozone and bought a set of FelPro high dollar gaskets, have a metal or plastic core with a grooved rubber gasket surface, spacers at bolt holes so you don't overtighten. Really do the job, but cost about $30 a pair.

Got some nice Granatelli billet aluminum valvecovers w/ billet rail for a small block right here with your name on em :D No baffles though...use a baffled grommet.

PM me for info

you are using the long things that spread the load over more of the valve cover and not the little triangles?

Have you tried rubber gaskets? I have never had a leak once I switched over, and you don't use any sealer with the rubber ones, so you cna take them off whenever you want!

Same here. I use the Fel-Pro #1628 with AFR aluminum valve covers. They do not leak, are reusable, and with no sealant, no scrapping or clean-up required.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1628&N=115+4294925237+4294889345+400101+4294889338&autoview=sku

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/fpp-1628.jpg

Get a good aluminum valve cover and get the Fel-Pro gaskets above.

Good luck, Ed www.edgesz28.com

Since you have chrome covers, you might want to "rough up" the gasket surface area lightly to aid in the adhesion of the silicone. This will also help keep the gasket from sliding aside.

From there, I'd use ULTRA BLACK silicone for a good seal, or Permatex Aviation FORM-A-GASKET of you are really serious on sealing. I normally use the plain cork gaskets, sometimes the double thick Mr Gasket kind.

Then I usually seal the cover to the gasket, and let it sit for 30 minutes, gasket side down, with a weight on top of the valve cover.

Then I place the gasket dry on the heads using good spreaders. If you're concerned about leaks, you might want to use Permatex aviation form a gasket here as well. The permatex aviation stuff will stick better than any other sealant. Your gaskets will never come back off in one piece. (more like hundreds of pieces)

Aluminum valve covers and thick Fel Pro cork gaskets. This has cured the leaky valve covers for everybody I know with a SBC

Just get center colt valve covers... I love these things already!

I am so frustrated, I almost smashed the car on purpose.

My valve covers leak. They have always leaked after a few months.

It does not matter what type of gasket I use. Install it dry, or with silicone- do difference. Torque to 2, 3, 5, 10 ft lbs- who cares. Loctite on the threads or not- whatever.

They leak. The sealing surface is arrow-straight on both sides.

These are the GMPP chrome covers. I suspect the chrome, being "slick," is causing the gasket to pinch inward when I torque the cover down.

Who makes a valve cover, with baffles, that has a completely flat lip on the underside? No roll whatsoever. I want something that has an angle as sharp as the one on the head sealing surface.

Anyone?

P.S. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

Those stamped steel chromed (made in China/Taiwan) valve covers were junk when I had them too. I ended up getting some cast aluminum covers with a lip that uses a neoprene gasket. I have centerbolt heads, so I got these:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfparts/images/parts/large/12497979_large.jpg

They seal up beautifully. Utilize a "U" shaped channel on the bottom to capture the gasket and prevent movement. Since the gaskets are neoprene, they're reusable and never need sealant. Also, these covers only allow a predetermined compression on the gasket (you can't overtighten).


BTW, I assume you have the perimiter bolt earlier style covers? Do you have the spreaders that distribute the load?

Some good ideas here. I cannot believe I have not run across those 1628s in all my years. I've been wishing for something like that for a long time.

Cork or composite gaskets, doesn't matter. The cork can be a PITA to get off the head, in the unlikely event that they actually DO seal. The let-it-set-overnight with a weight didn't help. No spreaders, as the cover lip isn't bending, at all.

Think Autozone or Pep Boys would have the 1628s?

I like these valve covers-
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/996/products/46881/SB-Chevrolet-Aluminum-Chevrolet-Valve-Covers.htm

Todd

For $1000 I can fly out to VA Install a set of neoprene gaskets for you & still have cash left over, hmmmmmm.:p

I could drive too but the gas bill would be a killer.http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&saddr=calgary,+ab&daddr=Bristow,+VA

Looking at Autozone, they don't have the 1628s, but they do have VS12869T-
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=FEL-VS12869T&N=115+400150+308245&autoview=sku

Perhaps I'll give these a go. Not sure how I missed these either all these years. Duh.

Then I have to find a place to clean a quart of oil off the engine, underside, and rear bumper.

Some good ideas here. I cannot believe I have not run across those 1628s in all my years. I've been wishing for something like that for a long time.

Cork or composite gaskets, doesn't matter. The cork can be a PITA to get off the head, in the unlikely event that they actually DO seal. The let-it-set-overnight with a weight didn't help. No spreaders, as the cover lip isn't bending, at all.

Think Autozone or Pep Boys would have the 1628s?

I like these valve covers-
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/996/products/46881/SB-Chevrolet-Aluminum-Chevrolet-Valve-Covers.htm

Todd

Todd, I had a set of those when they first came out. Hopefully they've been improved. Mine leaked like crazy.

The ones I had were simply raw castings thrown in a box, but it looks like they're machining these now. Also, there were no baffles on mine (in fact, I had to drill my own holes!), but looks like Scoggins Dickey says these come with baffles now. They do look cool though.

The VS12869T gaskets did the trick. $21 at Autozone. Worth every penny.

They are rubber on both sides, have a steel core that keeps them rigid, and compression limiters, to prevent overtightening. I installed them dry. They could likely be reused several times, by the look of them.

How did I miss these for ten years?

Todd

good stuff...the LS-7 crate motor I put in my 55 chevy came with silicone rubber valve cover gaskets, with the metal core, and metal bushings at each hole...I've had them on the engine (and off a dozen times or so) since 1990 and they still don't leak!

Chinese chrome parts are bad news....

I have had decent luck with using gorilla snot (weatherstrip adhesive) to glue cork or rubber valve cover gaskets to the valve cover.

I always rough up the cover surface with a wire wheel, then spray copperkote on the gaskets

I think you better check your PCV valve....

PCV valve is just fine.

Todd, my Edelbrock tc's work great. For a gasket I use the double thick cork types, with the metal inbetween the two layers of cork. They are reusable as I take mine on and off to adjust the valves with my solid lifter setup. They are a bit pricey but work super good for me.

A grand ehhh?????? Who pays for shipping?? lol

Hang in there bud, take abreather and keep on plugging away at it.