okay besides going aftermarket like painless or mad where can i find or what to look for in getting a high amperage junction block.i'm running my batt charge wire back to the batt side of the disconnect and increasing wire size from the engine compartment on back. or another words running the stock 10gauge wire to a point then continuing to the rear in 8 gauge.were the two wires meet i'll need a junction block that'll handle a high amp load.

Under the hood of mid-80's Cadillacs is a nice junction box, red with a snap cover that is labeled BAT. Inside the box is a 3/8" stud that works very well as a high amperage distribution point. I get these for a couple of bucks at Pick-n-Pull.

Junction blocks really don't have a amp rating. Current is carried through the ring terminals. I used the painless junction block with 4g wire.

There is a nice one under the hood of my 93 K1500 truck. I am so tempted to take it. :) A lot of late models have whole fuse boxes under the hood, small & large, if you are inclinded to junk yard prowl.

I was at a big boat place the other day, they had some neat electrical stuff I don't see every day.

Chevy pickups starting in 1981 have a nice terminal block on the firewall, and most junkyards have plenty of these trucks sitting there. You could likely buy one for pennies.

Change your alt to bat wire to an 8ga all the way back, not just from "a point".http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml has info and the part you need.

Change your alt to bat wire to an 8ga all the way back, not just from "a point".http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml has info and the part you need.

the only wire accesible since the alternator/regulator was changed to a internal regulator is a 10 guage wire from a splice off of the alternator charge wire. that 10guage wire is my batt. charge wire and that going back to the trunk to the batt side of the disconnect. this is why i need the terminal block so i can increase wire size easily as not to lose amps with a wire that'll be at least 9' long.

and the web page from madelectrical.com is exactly what i'm doing running the alternator charge wire to the block then a batt. charge wire to the disconnect.

corsicas. look in the bone yards. they have the exact junction block madelectrical offers. most things on his website are direct replacement gm stuff. look under the hoods of gms in ur local pick n pull and u will find all the stuff u need.

What alternator model are you using??? One wire that turns on when it reaches a certain speed or one that turns on with a 12 volt signal. You should be able to run a single isolated wire off of the big stud on the back of the alt directly to the "J" block then back to the disconnect switch. That splice scares me. Where's it go?? Is it a feed for another system?? If so, you can run a length of 10ga from the "J" block to that system after you run the 8ga from the alt to the "J" block.http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml

What alternator model are you using??? One wire that turns on when it reaches a certain speed or one that turns on with a 12 volt signal. You should be able to run a single isolated wire off of the big stud on the back of the alt directly to the "J" block then back to the disconnect switch. That splice scares me. Where's it go?? Is it a feed for another system?? If so, you can run a length of 10ga from the "J" block to that system after you run the 8ga from the alt to the "J" block.http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml

stock 35amp internal regulator alternator and the stock 10 guage alternator 'hot wire" is wired to it. that wire goes to the stock GM "splice" on the firewall in the wireloom were it ties into the battery charge wire.my camaro was updated by the previous owner and the stock regulator and wiring was removed .they added a battery charge wire that i believe ties into that stock splice and that is right now hooked into the battery wire post of the starter solenoid.this wire is what i need to bring back to the batt side of the disconnect as per NHRA.the disconnect if wired this way when the engine is at 3000rpm's if switched off the engine imediately shuts off with no alternator "bleed down". i'm not sure if running another wire off of the stud on the back of the alternator to the disconnect will kill all the power to the vehicle once the disconnect switch is shut off.

There are a couple of different ways to run a master disconnect per NHRA rules. The rules state that the main battery wire must be on the master diconnect switch. The best way to run the alt/bat charge wire in my experience is from the alt to one side of the master disconnect, on this side you want to run the bat charge wire to the battery too(I would remove the bat charge wire from the splice to the solenoid). The other side of the master disconnect(this is the place to get the main power feed for the electric fuel pump relay) you run to the "J" block. When you throw the master disconnect switch you isolate the alt and battery from the car wiring, all electricals(Ignition, fuel pump, etc) will not have power and will stop the engine from running and the alt will still be connected to the battery. Throw the switch at any time the car is running and it will shut-down